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Bypass Heater Core ?

ITS A 72 RR

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Quick question. I have a 72 RR 440 no AC car. The heater core just started leaking and reading through some old post it sounds like I can temporarily bypass the heater core. Can I just plug the output side from the block or do I have to connect the 2 hoses together to make a circulation loop. Also need a recommendation on a shop to rebuild my old one.
Thanks
 
I've got mine by-passed with threaded plugs in the water pump housing. I don't see why you couldn't Loop the hoses together. Why wouldn't you buy a new heater core?
 
I've got mine by-passed with threaded plugs in the water pump housing. I don't see why you couldn't Loop the hoses together. Why wouldn't you buy a new heater core?
I might look for a new one. This just started yesterday so I really haven't looked at whats available
 
Plug off or loop the hose, either way works.

As a temporary I’d loop the hose.
 
Quick question. I have a 72 RR 440 no AC car. The heater core just started leaking and reading through some old post it sounds like I can temporarily bypass the heater core. Can I just plug the output side from the block or do I have to connect the 2 hoses together to make a circulation loop. Also need a recommendation on a shop to rebuild my old one.
Thanks
- as another stated you will have to plug both ends,or easy way make a short loop if its temporary, any radiator shop can repair the core if its not completely deteriorated. many new heater cores available on ebay among other places. I usually put about1/2pint soluble oil on the radiator, it is used to cool parts while machine and prevents rust. with a new system you wont get a rusty block and radiator core.
 
I bought a NEW heater core for mine I believe from Napa. I think it cost me around $75.00. The real cost will be the labor involved to change it out. Accessing from under dash and disconnecting defroster vents, cables, etc...., might have to remove the instrument cluster first and then the box itself. Some things are not a walk in the park to reach.
 
Thanks for all the input. I live in south Florida and can't remember when I've used the heater in a car or house. So if it's a lot of work I might just keep it bypassed. I just want to drive it it's been sitting in my Dad's garage for 24 years.
 
If you want to keep the original and repair it, call Bob Schirmer at Glen-ray Radiators. They did my '63 for my resto, and it is Very Nice...
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If you have a console, it's gotta come out too....In Florida, I'd loop hose. My 2 cents.
 
I bought a NEW heater core for mine I believe from Napa. I think it cost me around $75.00. The real cost will be the labor involved to change it out. Accessing from under dash and disconnecting defroster vents, cables, etc...., might have to remove the instrument cluster first and then the box itself. Some things are not a walk in the park to reach.
The good news is the car is a A/C delete that helps a lot. the '62 dodge/plymouth are almost to easy,almost.
 
Mine has been bypassed for nearly 15 years. haha. Came out senior year to a passenger floorboard full of radiator fluid. I just rebuilt my heater box with all new material from http://detroitmuscletechnologies.com (awesome site btw). I decided not to spend the extra 100+ bucks on a new heater core since i'll eventually do A/C and replace the box completely.
 
Mine has been bypassed for nearly 15 years. haha. Came out senior year to a passenger floorboard full of radiator fluid. I just rebuilt my heater box with all new material from http://detroitmuscletechnologies.com (awesome site btw). I decided not to spend the extra 100+ bucks on a new heater core since i'll eventually do A/C and replace the box completely.
thats my story too. by the way- I got a new alum water pump- just because -it overhears, put a 6 blade fan on, over heats,never overheated with the stock water pump and 4 blade fan. I have 4 water pumps- no two are the same diameter of the impellar. one has a cast steel/iron impeller that is near 1" smaller diameter for the housing. anyone else seen this variety?(I'm putting the stock one back on. I know there are 6 and 8 fin pumps , and -the radiator is not for a B engine. it looks to be slant 6 radiator.guessing. irts' nice but useless.
 
thats my story too. by the way- I got a new alum water pump- just because -it overhears, put a 6 blade fan on, over heats,never overheated with the stock water pump and 4 blade fan. I have 4 water pumps- no two are the same diameter of the impellar. one has a cast steel/iron impeller that is near 1" smaller diameter for the housing. anyone else seen this variety?(I'm putting the stock one back on. I know there are 6 and 8 fin pumps , and -the radiator is not for a B engine. it looks to be slant 6 radiator.guessing. irts' nice but useless.

Wow that is pretty wild. What brand did you go woth on the water pump? I just installed one from 440source. We have their stealth heads. They seem to do great work. I'll see how the pump setup goes.
 
Wow that is pretty wild. What brand did you go woth on the water pump? I just installed one from 440source. We have their stealth heads. They seem to do great work. I'll see how the pump setup goes.
I "shopped" om ebay looking for what appeared to be quality- can't tell from a picture ,kind of thought the alum aftermarket pumps would be very similar, after all said and done I went back to my original penatastar iron pump. waiting fora new radiator now-this all started when I started looking for the reason it (the car) vibrated about 40, since them new drive line $325. no help. new steering box t ostop wandering- $175- did help- a lot, but the pan on the engine was to deep and the tie rod rubbed- changed pans, new idler cuz the one that had been installed was for a different tie rod, and locked up steering when tightened. when I started the engine- no oil pressure- OK, 55 year old pump with no prime most likely- changed pump and reprimed oil pressure, decided with input from local shop inner pinion bearing may cause the vibration had a punkin installed, went for a ride it helped but now it over heats ? thats when I started changing water pumps even though I had 3 originals I thought alum would be cool. now waiting for radiator as the one in the car is for a slant 6 at best, new alum 3 core 26 wide on its way. I opened up the radiator support for the wider unit- maybe by this weekend it will be better- on the other hand we are on tornado watch tonight- may have no problems by morning. stay tuned.
 
Thanks for all the input. I live in south Florida and can't remember when I've used the heater in a car or house. So if it's a lot of work I might just keep it bypassed. I just want to drive it it's been sitting in my Dad's garage for 24 years.
If you buy one make sure tubes coming though firewall are the same length as old one. Bought new core installed in car oops, couldn't attach hoses. Pipes 1/2 inch out of fw. they had to put old tank on new core.
 
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