New classification: LDR Limited Drag Radial class

[biomedtechguy]

What can you experienced folks say about it?

https://dragillustrated.com/limited-drag-radial-the-working-mans-radial-class/

 

[fbs63]

That is from 2016. The class is the same as all the other heads up classes. Out of control. I think they are in the mid 4s in the 1/8 mile.

 

[dvw]

You do know that 4.20 is about 6.60 in the 1/4. Working mans class? The engine would cost more than I gross in a year. My bet is your looking at $125K to show up and being even close.
Doug

 

[biomedtechguy]

That is from 2016

I just got the notification and didn't pay attention to the date.

Working mans class?

Right? Nice "work" if you can get it...

 

[mmissile]

You do know that 4.20 is about 6.60 in the 1/4. Working mans class? The engine would cost more than I gross in a year. My bet is your looking at $125K to show up and being even close.
Doug

To make it a season?....double that, without tons of breakage. All racing has gotten out-of-hand.

 

[dvw]

To make it a season?....double that, without tons of breakage. All racing has gotten out-of-hand.

Not a season, just to show up.
Doug

 

[6PKRTSE]

Yes, heads up classes are nuts. Mid 3''s now days over 210 in the 1/8. My buddy runs a 959" with 6 kits on 10" slicks or 275 d.r. tires.

 

[biomedtechguy]

My buddy runs a 959" with 6 kits

I lol when I hear cu in #s in the 800-900+ sized! and then NO2 kits on top of one another, like the 6 kits you mentioned.
WOW!

 

[Hemirunner]

Matt Bell (local to me) is the 6th fastest with a twin turbo BBC and tunes most of the local cars on his dyno. It takes cubic dollars to compete in any form of racing but this class does allow running some older style cars that can be bought fairly reasonable. (Relatively speaking).

 

[Budnicks]

Yes, heads up classes are nuts. Mid 3''s now days over 210 in the 1/8. My buddy runs a 959" with 6 kits on 10" slicks or 275 d.r. tires.

That's crazy **** now...

cubic dollars & many almost 1000cid
huge single turbo or huge dual turbo's
screw superchargers or Pro-Charger centrifugal Blowers

pretty much like the no prep guys do the same deal
poor-mans old Pro-gas/Pro door-slammer early heads up classes
or like a Top Sportsman or even Pro-Mod in 1/8th mile

 

[dvw]

Racing isn't cheap. If it wasn't for doing everything myself using side work and winnings I couldn't do it. With that being said I can usually buy what ever I need. But my kids are grown and my house is paid off. For young guys starting out with kids making less than 100k a year? Tough sledding. My advise. Buy used and learn to do everything yourself.
Doug

 

[Hemirunner]

Buy used and learn to do everything yourself.
Doug

I buy used where it makes sense, but you really have to know what you’re buying as I’ve watched a lot of people get burned on second hand junk when they thought they were getting a deal. I’ll spend more on new to avoid the burn if at all possible.

The last part of Doug’s statement is where I concentrate and where you can save the most amount of money.

 

[fbs63]

Don't get me wrong, I love this racing and I know it's cubic money. The cars are works of art with their liberal interpretation of the "rules"!

 

[1967coronet440]

I was poking around on proline racing site last night. Grudge motors going for 40-50k, and I thought my stroker build cost a lot lol.

 

[Hemirunner]

Don't get me wrong, I love this racing and I know it's cubic money. The cars are works of art with their liberal interpretation of the "rules"!

You don’t read the rules to see what they say, you read them to see what they don’t say!!

 

[Hemirunner]

I was poking around on proline racing site last night. Grudge motors going for 40-50k, and I thought my stroker build cost a lot lol.

Get your order in! Lol it’s crazy money!

 

[moparcrazy]

I buy used where it makes sense, but you really have to know what you’re buying as I’ve watched a lot of people get burned on second hand junk when they thought they were getting a deal. I’ll spend more on new to avoid the burn if at all possible.

The last part of Doug’s statement is where I concentrate and where you can save the most amount of money.

Few years back I bought from this site a set of New in the box 4:30 Motive Gears, didn't install them right away just sat on the self, first time on the track they Broke, I should of inspected them before having them installed, but I didn't, after inspecting them at the track they were made in china, someone changed the Motive gear out with this Chinese POS.

 

[Hemirunner]

Few years back I bought from this site a set of New in the box 4:30 Motive Gears, didn't install them right away just sat on the self, first time on the track they Broke, I should of inspected them before having them installed, but I didn't, after inspecting them at the track they were made in china, someone changed the Motive gear out with this Chinese POS.

Unfortunately, integrity is all but gone in this day and age, but I see it all the time in the racing community. Had a buddy buy a high dollar SBF. It was bragged up to be a big power turbo grudge engine. It turned out to be some thrown together junk. That lesson was $14K.

 

[dvw]

I agree on not everything can be used. But once you know what to check for. I ran a used short block, heads, axle housing, brakes, wheels, slicks, wheels, gauges, ignition box, coil, push rods, valve covers light weight trans guts. Bought new lifters, valves, springs, ring & pinion. Some stuff I couldn't find at the time so it had to be new. Intake, cam, driveshaft. Make a list when you start. Watch the internent, swap meets, etc. Buy it it as it becomes available.
Doug

 

[6PKRTSE]

After 550+ H.P. I never run used in most anything. I would never buy some else's used crank, rods, cam, lifters, rockers or convertors. For mild street/strip applications is one thing, but higher h.p. all out race car parts no way.