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Holley Sniper Coil Control gave up the ghost!

Triple Black 73

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The Holley Sniper EFI coil control broke today while I was out driving. I was only 8 miles from the house. I really wish I paid $80 for the Hagerty read side service instead of the $80 for the tow today!

I didn't trust this thing anyways. A quick search online reveals I'm not the only one having issues with it. I'm going to upgrade the Holley 556-151 CD ignition like I should have in the first place.

Cooked wires:
20190614_154322_HDR.jpg


Two bumps and cooked plastic:
20190614_163255.jpg


My '73 Charger on a Ram 5500. If you gotta get a tow, get a towed with a Ram 5500! The tow truck guy was a huge Dodge fan. Him and the Owner only drives Dodges/Ram. The owner has a '68 Cornet R/T. The driver has a silver '05 SRT-10.
20190614_155257.jpg



Holley CD ignition box:
https://www.holley.com/products/fue.../sniper_efi/hyperspark_ignition/parts/556-151

Holley CD coil:
https://www.holley.com/products/fue.../sniper_efi/hyperspark_ignition/parts/556-152
 
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Yes...by all means. Do you want extra input or help with that?
Maybe a new thread called "Holley Sniper for beginners" :thumbsup:

We shall call it " How to Snipe a Mopar!"
:lol:
 
I'll start with my first contribution....

"Read the manual and installations supplied....thoroughly. Then read them again. Handle all items to familiarize yourself with parts...then read the instructions again." :thumbsup:
 
Then reinstall the carburetor because this **** is way too involved and take a drink!
 
Then reinstall the carburetor because this **** is way too involved and take a drink!

It runs great when it's working! Tuning it stupid easy. I love being to adjust timing on the fly.

The only problem I had so far (knock on wood) has been that stupid little controler box. I thought it looked janky when I first saw. And I turned out right.

The CD box should fix it right up.
 
It runs great when it's working! Tuning it stupid easy. I love being to adjust timing on the fly.

The only problem I had so far (knock on wood) has been that stupid little controler box. I thought it looked janky when I first saw. And I turned out right.

The CD box should fix it right up.

Yea I was just being an idiot and fooling around. I have thought about it so many times.
 
Yea I was just being an idiot and fooling around. I have thought about it so many times.

Go for it. Just goes all the way. Which means, the EFI unit, a good in-tank pump with a return, HyperSpark distributor, and the CD ignition. My only issue has been the little box that broke today. The rest of the system has been rock solid awesome!
 
I have installed 2 of these Holley Sniper master kits. If you read the instructions it goes quite easy, I'm a retard and did it twice.
 
I have installed 2 of these Holley Sniper master kits. If you read the instructions it goes quite easy, I'm a retard and did it twice.

It is easy if you follow the instructions. I didn't.

I added an intank pump, a fused relay box, wired a bunch of stuff to the box, converted the head lights to ground triggered, put LED in the dash, upgraded the alternator to one 4awg wire, and added a timed delay relay to the key switch.

Only issue has been the Canadisim controller.
 
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The first one I did I messed up and had it wired wrong and it would reset the computer every time. I had the,"If i remember right" the pink wire on a switched hot but it needed constant hot. Don't quote me on that. Its has been a while since I did them..

The one on the GTX used a MSD distributor ready to run and it was controlled by the Sniper.

The other on the Roadrunner was just a electronic ignition with a plain old coil. This one i had coil heating issues and left me stranded at a gas station until I realized i needed to jumper the damn ballast resistor. Did that temporary it fired up and made it home so I could permanently fix the issue.
 
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The first one I did I messed up and had it wired wrong and it would reset the computer every time. I had the,"If i remember right" the pink wire on a switched hot but it needed constant hot. Don't quote me on that. Its has been a while since I did them..

The one on the GTX used a MSD distributor ready to run and it was controlled by the Sniper.

The other on the Roadrunner was just a electronic ignition with a plain old coil. This one i had coil heating issues and left me stranded at a gas station until I realized i needed to jumper the damn ballast resistor. Did that temporary it fired up and made it home so I could permanently fix the issue.

Yup. The pink to the ECU needs to be a switched hot that stays hot on the key switch. And the must go to battery hot (or the ecu has to relearn it tables). There are three wires coming off the switch. Black for accessories, blue ingition run, and brown ignition start. The easiest way is to join the blue and brown on the engine side. As long the switch is turned quickly, the ECU won't notice the slight lost of power. However, if the switch is turned slowly, there a small gap between the two points where power us lost and the ECU will lost power and reset itself. Solution: a time relay set to 0.3 to 0.5 seconds before turning off which is trigger off the blue and brown wire.

I thought I had the same heating issue with a 7v coil, so I replaced it with a hot 12v coil. As it stand right now I don't know if my ignition issues were the 7v coil heating up, the controller going bad, what role the header heat had, or the 12v coil was too much for the controller.

What ever it was, I know 2 things for a fact:

1) Hagerty road side would've paid for itself twice over already.

2) I should've went with CD ignition from the start.
 
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