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Oil pan issues

tloewee

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Jun 16, 2017
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Location
Appleton, Wisconsin
i’ve got a 76’ doba with a 360 that I’m starting a 440 swap. Bought a 77’ 440 HP (cop motor) that was rebuilt and bored 10 over but was in a motorhome and was told it had a truck pan. I had the understanding that I would need to swap out the oil pan to a b-body style but that looks like it will interfere with a crossmember. The current 360 pan sits forward of the crossmember and it looks like the current 440 pan will too. Am I all messed up or am I missing something?
 
Silly question....you did change the crossmember to a big block crossmember?

The oil pan you will need is NOT a regular 440 pan. You will need one that is specific for a BB Cordoba. Examples are:
https://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/trd-9496/overview/year/1977/make/chrysler/model/cordoba

https://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/pro-66189/overview/year/1977/make/chrysler/model/cordoba

I don't like the chromed ones so I bought a non painted version at my local performance shop for cheaper.

What other changes are you doing to the Cordoba to prepare it for the engine swap? I did the exact same swap many years ago.
 
Silly question....you did change the crossmember to a big block crossmember?

The oil pan you will need is NOT a regular 440 pan. You will need one that is specific for a BB Cordoba. Examples are:
https://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/trd-9496/overview/year/1977/make/chrysler/model/cordoba

https://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/pro-66189/overview/year/1977/make/chrysler/model/cordoba

I don't like the chromed ones so I bought a non painted version at my local performance shop for cheaper.

What other changes are you doing to the Cordoba to prepare it for the engine swap? I did the exact same swap many years ago.
 
I have a donor big block cordoba to swap the torsion bar, and k member (if needed as I’ve heard they might be universal) I haven’t even pulled the 360 yet so this is really just starting. Just trying to get my ducks in a row before I start.
By your comment I need a 400 pan to fit? (I don’t care for chrome either as I want it to look “stockish”) I’ve got the bb trans that came with the motor and all the accessories minus the radiator.
Any help you could provide would be greatly appreciated thanks.
 
By your comment I need a 400 pan to fit?

Yes. You will need the pan numbers posted above.

You'll need to swap out the k-member, torsion bars & driveshaft. Get new k-member and motor mount isolators. The old ones will be junk. You'll need to swap out most of the linkages for the carb and trans too. Easy if you know what you are doing.
 
Paint it a factory color and it looks stock...

Result
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You Have Selected:

  • Vehicle / CHRYSLER CORDOBA Remove
Milodon 30760:
Oil Pan Usage: Stock

Make: CHRYSLER

Model: CORDOBA

Beginning Year: 1975

Ending Year: 1978

Engine Type: V8

Engine Size: 6.6L/400

Engine Family: Mopar big block B
 
Yes. You will need the pan numbers posted above.

You'll need to swap out the k-member, torsion bars & driveshaft. Get new k-member and motor mount isolators. The old ones will be junk. You'll need to swap out most of the linkages for the carb and trans too. Easy if you know what you are doing.
Thank you
 
Thank you...I have the drive shaft and the k member out of my donor car. It’s in good shape but im still going to replace the mounts and fittings. Everything else I’ll transfer from the donor.
I’ve never done anything this big before. I’ve replaced engines and such but not an upgrade like this.
 
No motor from donor?
If not BB B body 75-78 maybe earlier..oil pickup also...
 
Thank you...I have the drive shaft and the k member out of my donor car. It’s in good shape but im still going to replace the mounts and fittings. Everything else I’ll transfer from the donor.
I’ve never done anything this big before. I’ve replaced engines and such but not an upgrade like this.
It's a really easy swap - almost like the car was made for a 440. Some years back I took a 440/727 out of a 77 NYer (common donor) and dropped it in to my 75 Charger. Just by accident I swapped in a k frame from a 400 car and it all dropped right in - except the oil pan. Grabbed one from a 400 Doba to fix that. Drive shaft too. The C body exhaust manifolds and kick down linkage worked.

The generic aftermarket 400 radiator had the hoses in the right places but didn't keep it cool on hot days. A cheap aluminum from champion fixed that but there application data is wrong. I can dig up the specifics when ya get there.
 
It's a really easy swap - almost like the car was made for a 440. Some years back I took a 440/727 out of a 77 NYer (common donor) and dropped it in to my 75 Charger. Just by accident I swapped in a k frame from a 400 car and it all dropped right in - except the oil pan. Grabbed one from a 400 Doba to fix that. Drive shaft too. The C body exhaust manifolds and kick down linkage worked.

The generic aftermarket 400 radiator had the hoses in the right places but didn't keep it cool on hot days. A cheap aluminum from champion fixed that but there application data is wrong. I can dig up the specifics when ya get there.
 
Thank you for the help. I’m taking measurement now of the two k frames and they seem identical. Same distance to the mounts....same height...
it sure looks like everything on my current Doba’ w/360 is the same as my donor that had a 400.
You said that you changed the k member by accident??? Did you not need it like I’m thinking I don’t need it as well?
 
If ya know Dobas, ya know the K frames rot. Over the years I've randomly grabbed good spares when I find them. Before doing my last swap I grabbed my spare front end to paint, replace bushings, etc and get it ready to go in the car. The accident part was grabbing the spare big block k frame.

The factory parts books do list different PNs for SB vs BB but I never thought it was an actually different part because a) Hollander interchange didn't mention it [back in the day] b) they list different PNs year to year c) never ran in to problems with the few I replaced without paying attention to it.

Within the last year I came across this attachment that shows the difference pretty plainly.

k_frame_sb_bb.jpg
 
That’s exactly what I thought. My frame is perfect. The original owner (I bought it from his son) undercoated it and never drove it during the winter. No rust and I mean NO RUST. The donor car k frame is ok.
Thank you for the info it is greatly appreciated.
 
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