Engine seized ?

[beanhead]

The converter will slide forward to meet the flexplate. Flexplate can not be installed backwards. Once the flexplate and converter have separation, the engine (should!) spin. Get them apart some and re-attempt turning the engine.

 

[Aarons Air]

Seems like we are getting to the issue. Thanks to everyone so far for all the insight & help ! I'm not a mechanic. I just know enough to get in trouble

 

[Robert Schaad]

Looks like B&M flex plate.https://www.jegs.com/i/B&M/130/10237/10002/-1?gclid=EAIaIQobChMI36fD_e7b5gIVBKSzCh3StQMPEAQYBSABEgLXX_D_BwE

Hope that is not it. Wrong flex plate. That one is for mounting an externally balanced motor to a normal automatic transmission. I used this plate when I took out a 318 with 904 and put in a 360 to that 904. Worked great.

 

[Fran Blacker]

Hope that is not it. Wrong flex plate. That one is for mounting an externally balanced motor to a normal automatic transmission. I used this plate when I took out a 318 with 904 and put in a 360 to that 904. Worked great.

Just posted for the design not that its the right one for his engine. I should have made it clear.

 

[mopar 3 B]

Thought we were dealing with a 383 and not an LA. The 383 uses a full round plate and yes it can not be installed backwards. Not sure what torque converter is being used but is it possible the drain plug would be holding things up? I would think there would be a hole in the plate for it.

 

[Robert Schaad]

Just posted for the design not that its the right one for his engine. I should have made it clear.

Great. Sorry, I just had a major argument with some mopar guys that told me I am wrong when I said I could bolt up the 360 when I pulled out the 318.

 

[Robert Schaad]

Seems like we are getting to the issue. Thanks to everyone so far for all the insight & help ! I'm not a mechanic. I just know enough to get in trouble

Just another small bit of information. Sometimes the TQ nose has some corrosion on it and makes it a little hard to separate it from the engine. It sticks into the back of the crankshaft not the flex plate. But still should rotate easy.

 

[bearman]

Anytime you install tq and trans to a engine I always put anti seize on the tq and the crank. That's just me doesn't have to be done but it always helps me. Hope your problem is solved and you can move forward.

 

[Aarons Air]

Anytime you install tq and trans to a engine I always put anti seize on the tq and the crank. That's just me doesn't have to be done but it always helps me. Hope your problem is solved and you can move forward.

Thanks, me too lol. At least the motor seems ok ( fingers crossed). I really dont want to tear it all apart.

 

[bearman]

I think you will be fine.i would do as you started spray marvel oil in the cyn then turn it back and forth until you feel good about a full spin.

 

[Fran Blacker]

For future reference.

 

[Detroit Iron]

I feel like the guy's torque convertor isn't in all the way. Sometimes they go on the spline and you think you're done, but you need to put both hands around it and kind of lift and turn as you push it in. It will kind of make a "thunk" noise when it's all the way in.

 

[mopar 3 B]

Thing is did it clear when installed and bolted together? If it did it should come apart. It may take locking the converter to the case and turning the crank to brake it loose if the converter nose is indeed stuck in the crank. I would start there before braking the trans loose. That flex is a pain to align if not marked first to the converter. Matching the holes that close would be a bit of a challenge but guess it could be done.

 

[1968rt]

Could this be as simple as a nut or bolt in one cylinder? **** happens!! Get the bore camera.

 

[50 Coupe]

Aarons Air , did you ever get this sorted out?

 

[Aarons Air]

Aarons Air , did you ever get this sorted out?

thanks for asking. I think i found the culprit. I took the cover off, where you get to the bolts. The torque converter wont slide forward & backward. I think it wasn't seated properly before installation. I've been swamped with work & haven't had time to drop the trans yet. But i've got it ready now. And just bought a new jack to help.

 

[dvw]

I wouldnt blame the converter install yet. I've had more than a few converters that wont slide back more than .060". I ve also had converters that the snout fits very tight into the crank. If the converter spins with a screw driver it is NOT keeping the engine from rotating. If the converter jsnt far enough into the pump, the pump gears are damaged already. It may require an 1/8" spacer between the trans and block for proper converter fore/aft alignment. The front center of the converter may be hitting the flex plate to crank bolts. But if it still doesnt turn? Take the belts off. Does it spin now? If so, I've seen the fan to water pump bolts too long hitting the pump housing. Still no spin after removing the belts? Check the lower crank pulley bolts. Are they hitting the timing cover? Still locked? Loosen the trans to block bolts. Pry the trans back from the block with a couple of flat blade screw drivers. Still wont turn? I'd pull the motor.
Doug

 

[Aarons Air]

I wouldnt blame the converter install yet. I've had more than a few converters that wont slide back more than .060". I ve also had converters that the snout fits very tight into the crank. If the converter spins with a screw driver it is NOT keeping the engine from rotating. If the converter jsnt far enough into the pump, the pump gears are damaged already. It may require an 1/8" spacer between the trans and block for proper converter fore/aft alignment. The front center of the converter may be hitting the flex plate to crank bolts. But if it still doesnt turn? Take the belts off. Does it spin now? If so, I've seen the fan to water pump bolts too long hitting the pump housing. Still no spin after removing the belts? Check the lower crank pulley bolts. Are they hitting the timing cover? Still locked? Loosen the trans to block bolts. Pry the trans back from the block with a couple of flat blade screw drivers. Still wont turn? I'd pull the motor.
Doug

Thank you. Sounds like a good proper sequence to follow.

 

[Aarons Air]

I wouldnt blame the converter install yet. I've had more than a few converters that wont slide back more than .060". I ve also had converters that the snout fits very tight into the crank. If the converter spins with a screw driver it is NOT keeping the engine from rotating. If the converter jsnt far enough into the pump, the pump gears are damaged already. It may require an 1/8" spacer between the trans and block for proper converter fore/aft alignment. The front center of the converter may be hitting the flex plate to crank bolts. But if it still doesnt turn? Take the belts off. Does it spin now? If so, I've seen the fan to water pump bolts too long hitting the pump housing. Still no spin after removing the belts? Check the lower crank pulley bolts. Are they hitting the timing cover? Still locked? Loosen the trans to block bolts. Pry the trans back from the block with a couple of flat blade screw drivers. Still wont turn? I'd pull the motor.
Doug

If the converter isn't far enough into the pump, what would cause the pump gears to be damaged already, if the motor hasn't even made a complete revolution ? Sorry, i'm clueless about transmissions.

 

[33 IMP]

The converter has a slot on the end of the snout that engages two tangs that drive the pump. If the converter isn't in the proper place, the body of the converter snout pushes on the pump gears instead of the pump tangs being in the slot. As the trans is tightened to the block, the converter crushes the inner gear of the pump.