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Ignition conversion problem......

The one on the car, that works, read 314 ohms. The one in the garage read infinite, so I guess that one is no good.
Does your car turnover when you try to start it?
 
The one on the car, that works, read 314 ohms. The one in the garage read infinite, so I guess that one is no good.
Does your car turnover when you try to start it?

Yes of course. This was a running car with the old points system. So I guess the pickup is ok?
 
Is possible that it's wired so there is no voltage to ecu when cranking??
 
Hmmmm........how could this happen?
Don't know just put out the possibility. Car can start in crank position then stop in run. Why not the reverse? Have you tried to remove dist and spin in by hand with key on? Dist may need to be grounded but don't crank engine with dist out.
 
Solid state does not need to have the distributor grounded.
Mark the distributor and note rotor orientation before you pull it (take a picture).
Pull your favorite plug wire and connect to a loose grounded sparkplug or set coil wire about 1/4" from a ground.
You can remove the dist and try both run and start positions by spinning the shaft with your fingers, just pull off the yellow start wire to the starter relay.
Be mindful not to flood the engine while testing and debugging.
 
Just a thought here but I went through a similar round of diagnosis on my 79 300. Turned out the Proform Ignition Conversion kit from Summit came with a distributor that the shaft was 5mm to short and wasn't engaging the drive gear. I changed out every component but never confirmed the rotor was turning during cranking...

Just a thought....
 
ust a thought here but I went through a similar round of diagnosis on my 79 300. Turned out the Proform Ignition Conversion kit from Summit came with a distributor that the shaft was 5mm to short and wasn't engaging the drive gear. I changed out every component but never confirmed the rotor was turning during cranking...
Wow, like I always say - "You can't get anything good these days"
 
Just a thought here but I went through a similar round of diagnosis on my 79 300. Turned out the Proform Ignition Conversion kit from Summit came with a distributor that the shaft was 5mm to short and wasn't engaging the drive gear. I changed out every component but never confirmed the rotor was turning during cranking...

Just a thought....

Its turning..... but thanks.!
 
Solid state does not need to have the distributor grounded.
Mark the distributor and note rotor orientation before you pull it (take a picture).
Pull your favorite plug wire and connect to a loose grounded sparkplug or set coil wire about 1/4" from a ground.
You can remove the dist and try both run and start positions by spinning the shaft with your fingers, just pull off the yellow start wire to the starter relay.
Be mindful not to flood the engine while testing and debugging.

So holding the number one spark with my left hand while looking down the boot for spark, I turn the key with my right hand and roll the motor over. No spark.
 
So holding the number one spark with my left hand while looking down the boot for spark, I turn the key with my right hand and roll the motor over. No spark.
It doesn't work that way .... you'll Need to put it close to a ground . You may not want to hold it either !
 
Check the spring on the rotor and make sure it is making contact with the coil terminal in the distributor cap.
At this point, it's either wired wrong or it's something horribly simple. It sounds like you know what you're doing. I'm stumped.
It's not the ignition switch, neutral safety switch, coil, ecu, pickup coil, ballast resistor...what's left?
 
So holding the number one spark with my left hand while looking down the boot for spark, I turn the key with my right hand and roll the motor over. No spark.
Just to elaborate on what 65-440 said, put a spark plug in the boot and ground the plug to a good ground on the motor. Look for the spark at the plug tip.
 
Check the spring on the rotor and make sure it is making contact with the coil terminal in the distributor cap.
At this point, it's either wired wrong or it's something horribly simple. It sounds like you know what you're doing. I'm stumped.
It's not the ignition switch, neutral safety switch, coil, ecu, pickup coil, ballast resistor...what's left?

Ok update. Really starting to lose my patience with this bullshit. I've replaced, coil, ballast, voltage regulator, and pickup tests ok. But now, for some stupid reason, I only have 1 fricken volt goin to the distributor from the ECU. So I tried my other brand new box (blue) from Napa. Still only 1 volt. Plus now, I only have 5 volts going to coil. But if I remove the ECU from the circuit, I get 12 volts back at the coil again. WTF! There's no way 2 brand new ECU's could be bad. This problem is so stupid I can't stand it. Ready to burn the car to the ground...
 
Go back to points before you burn it! I think it is entirely possible to get two bad ecus considering the quality of parts today.
I know how you feel. A couple of years ago I had a condensor (points ignition) fail. I had never owned a car with points before and I had replaced the points and condensor a couple months prior.
I spent all weekend trying and replacing everything until it finally dawned on me.
I'm genuinely curious what the deal is with your car.
 
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