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Replacing Camshaft while engine is in car who done it?

Moparfiend

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I was thinking of possibly sneaking in a different camshaft in my 1970 Satellite in-situ (NOT removing the motor). Wondering if anyone has done this before and can comment on its PITA factor?

For sure I would have to remove the radiator but not sure what else on the front fascia...also would I need to get access from the top by removing the intake manifold?

Thank you for reading/responding etc...:popcorn2:
 
In my Charger, I was able to do it with the grille still in place. The Satellite grille sits closer to the radiator so count on removing it.
Intake comes off, valve covers too. The rocker arms and pushrods come out, the lifters, oil pump/distributor drive, timing chain and gears THEN the cam comes out.
 
In my Charger, I was able to do it with the grille still in place. The Satellite grille sits closer to the radiator so count on removing it.
Intake comes off, valve covers too. The rocker arms and pushrods come out, the lifters, oil pump/distributor drive, timing chain and gears THEN the cam comes out.
Thanks KD I figured the valve train but why the intake? Is that so you can see the cam better as you sneak it into each bearing?
 
How are you going to remove the lifters?
 
Back in the 80's I changed cams on my Challenger seven times just seeing what different cams would do... Never had to remove the grill... But always pulled the intake.. On a big block you could cheat & fish the lifters but there's no water in the manifold so it's easier to just pull the intake... Small block there's no room to sneak the lifters out.. To bad cause that manifold does have coolant in it...
 
On my 70 gtx i had to remove the centre latch support bracket as well. The cam just snags it on the way out.
 
If you have a big block the lifters can be removed without removing the intake, using a magnetic tool through the pushrod openings.
 
If you have a big block the lifters can be removed without removing the intake, using a magnetic tool through the pushrod openings.
It will take less time to pull the intake than to dic around fishing for lifters . just follow the procedure and make your life simple
 
Did my Charger (440), Bumper and Grill in, Did a 71 Satellite (318), Bumper and Grill in.. Easier to pull manifold on both cars.
 
You might want to consider checking your insurance for good coverage for back problems...
Doing all that while hanging over the engine sounds like a pain to me, i do have a bad back so for me that issue acts up pretty quickly.
But yeah, pulling the manifold off would make life a lot easier.
 
Any other reasons to pull the engine? Leaky core plug or rear main seal? Just asking.
 
My engine is currently out as well, a job i was not looking forward too but i managed by myself and went smoother than expected.
It does give all the space to do whatever you want in there and working on the engine is so much easier.
 
I've done the lifter fishing before because one collapsed on a 383 and even that was somewhat of a pain. Can only imagine what doing all 16 would be like. Yeah, pull the intake. Like mentioned, it's pretty simple on a big block....

And I hope you plan on using a degree wheel on that new cam? That too can be done without pulling the engine.
 
Not sure how the '70 is set up, but on my '69 Road Runner, the worst part was removing the panel below the grill. All the bolts where hidden and needed the braille method.

I did all 16 lifters using the magnet method (383). Had to do a little fishing now and then, but over all, not too bad.
 
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I don't see what anyone would gain by leaving the intake on. The cam needs to be slathered in assembly lube and the lifters do too. Why make the job harder by trying to build a "Ship in a bottle" ?
 
I did all 8 lifters using the magnet method (383).
What about the other 8 lifters?
My guess would be about 9 of 10 cam changes are done in the car.
I would jack it up til the engine compartment was at a comfortable working height.
Use a degree wheel to set the cam and break in oil with zinc following the install.
 
I don't see what anyone would gain by leaving the intake on. The cam needs to be slathered in assembly lube and the lifters do too. Why make the job harder by trying to build a "Ship in a bottle" ?
That part was actually quite easy.
 
Thanks KD I figured the valve train but why the intake? Is that so you can see the cam better as you sneak it into each bearing?
Also..I don't know if you have factory heads or not? But with Edelbrocks you can't get the lifters out through the heads like with the factory stuff as they don't have the big open pushrod hole.
 
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