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Dana 60

Burns69RT

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Local time
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Location
Orange County, CA
Hey guys I’ve got this guy looking to get rid of his Dana 60 and he said it came out of an RV. He texted me measurements and pictures. I’m wondering what I need to do to get it to fit like a factory for a 68 b body

77306BEE-5C3C-48B2-A673-240089BAC8CF.jpeg EAC8CEE1-1D55-465C-A1D8-2586FCE9E690.jpeg 50B7CB84-B4AE-4F33-9156-702EADF741A8.jpeg
 
What you do is call Dr Diff and order a brand new Strange S60 with the options you want. You will be time and money ahead.

That used one needs to have the correct diameter axle tubes. I don’t know what that is. You just save so many headaches and logistics buying a new one made to order.

Can you do any of the rebuild work yourself:
Take it all apart?
Cut and weld axle housing ends/spring perches?
Procure rear brakes?
Rebuild rear brakes if you buy used?
Install the rear brakes and make them work?
Measure for and Order the correct length axle shafts?
Rebuild a sure grip differential?
Set up a ring and pinion?
Clean and paint it?
 
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If it's from an RV it could possibly be a Dana 70 as well. What does the wheel bolt pattern look like?
 
What you do is call Dr Diff and order a brand new Strange S60 with the options you want. You will be time and money ahead.

That used one needs to have the correct diameter axle tubes. I don’t know what that is. You just save so many headaches and logistics buying a new one made to order.
Or Strange directly.
 
So this is a Dana 60 and I can get it for $100, the guy has is lying around. Is it worth it?
 
Do you know the gear ratio? Motorhomes often had 4.56 or 5.10, but if you're lucky it could be a 4.10. If it isn't the ratio you want, add that cost in.
Making sure the whole rear is straight in the first place is where you should start...motorhomes have lots of weight and big torquey engines.
If you want a pinion snubber like the car versions had, the housing will need to be machined for one. You'll need to cut down the longer axle tubes and put on the correct axle ends, they can be had from Moroso for $100 https://www.moroso.com/c-e-shop-browse/97000/--9705/ Doing all the measuring, cutting and welding yourself will make the difference of whether it will all be worth it in the end.

You can see in your pictures that the spring mounts are on top, they need to be cut off and bottom ones installed https://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Mopar-...846781&hash=item443d1122b1:g:FdYAAOSwBLlU3Sjm Figure the cost for new axles, bearings, brakes backing plates and drums...
 
What you do is call Dr Diff and order a brand new Strange S60 with the options you want. You will be time and money ahead.

That used one needs to have the correct diameter axle tubes. I don’t know what that is. You just save so many headaches and logistics buying a new one made to order.

Can you do any of the rebuild work yourself:
Take it all apart?
Cut and weld axle housing ends/spring perches?
Procure rear brakes?
Rebuild rear brakes if you buy used?
Install the rear brakes and make them work?
Measure for and Order the correct length axle shafts?
Rebuild a sure grip differential?
Set up a ring and pinion?
Clean and paint it?
Any of the fan work, rear end work I can do. Just need to get correct measurements
 
Do you know the gear ratio? Motorhomes often had 4.56 or 5.10, but if you're lucky it could be a 4.10. If it isn't the ratio you want, add that cost in.
Making sure the whole rear is straight in the first place is where you should start...motorhomes have lots of weight and big torquey engines.
If you want a pinion snubber like the car versions had, the housing will need to be machined for one. You'll need to cut down the longer axle tubes and put on the correct axle ends, they can be had from Moroso for $100 https://www.moroso.com/c-e-shop-browse/97000/--9705/ Doing all the measuring, cutting and welding yourself will make the difference of whether it will all be worth it in the end.

You can see in your pictures that the spring mounts are on top, they need to be cut off and bottom ones installed https://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Mopar-...846781&hash=item443d1122b1:g:FdYAAOSwBLlU3Sjm Figure the cost for new axles, bearings, brakes backing plates and drums...
Thanks I appreciate it, they are 4.56 gears from what I know.
 
Thanks I appreciate it, they are 4.56 gears from what I know.
If it has 4.56 gears then that carrier will need to be replaced as you can only go higher numerically, it's probably a series 4 ...going through this issue now!!!! LOL!!!!
 
If it has 4.56 gears then that carrier will need to be replaced as you can only go higher numerically, it's probably a series 4 ...going through this issue now!!!! LOL!!!!
What carrier did you end up going with?
 
I think he means that pads on a stock passenger car dana that mount the pinion snubber, dont exist on a truck (or motorhome) dana, therefore no machining for a snubber is possible. In my opinion, other than wanting to look like a pass car dana, a pinion snubber serves no useful purpose.
 
What carrier did you end up going with?
For now keeping thw spool with 4.56 gears.
I bought a D60 TracLok from a member here only to find out ot has an odd deck height that I cant use. MAKE SURE TO VERIFY THAT!!!
It's not a series 3 or 4 which are different.
I'll probably end up buying an Eaton.
Dana 60 4.10 & Down 2.225″
4.56 & Up 2.420

Screenshot_20200331-114501_Acrobat for Samsung.jpg
 
If it's a sure-grip Ok and not a Dana 70. Axle splines? Custom axles??$$$
 
Contact Dr. Diff of Mosier with what you have. There should be some numbers on the axle tube to the right of the center section. Does it have flange type axles (like a car) or floating axles that are the hub is attached with a big lock nut threaded onto the axle. Obviously the axles and the ends will need changed. Depending on what year it may need a different carrier as well. The truck axle tubes are larger diameter and thicker walled.
 
I think he means that pads on a stock passenger car dana that mount the pinion snubber, dont exist on a truck (or motorhome) dana, therefore no machining for a snubber is possible.

Yup, exactly what I meant. :)

In my opinion, other than wanting to look like a pass car dana, a pinion snubber serves no useful purpose.

Meh, in usage I suppose it depends. In a stock automatic car with street tires, yeah, you likely won't miss it. In a built automatic or 4 speed with wider tires a more-than-factory HP, it does come in handy. Millions of foot brake racers can't be wrong. :D
 
I could be wrong but I don’t think that is a D60, look how thick that top main “rib” is.

I was going to order a Strange but decided to build a truck D60 myself, a little cheaper.

DB0C4178-9691-4145-9CB7-413C8C37304C.jpeg
 
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