Travis May
Member
I'm going to be running a 392 Hemi and Tremec 6 Speed in my 69 Coronet. Hoping for rear end recommendations. So far, I have only looker at Moser Dana 60 style rear ends. Anywhere else I should be looking?
Rear End Set Ups - 69 Coronet Restomod - 500HP
- Thread starter Travis May
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what's wrong with the 8 3/4 plenty strong and you save cash on a Moser
Dr Diff is a little closer to you. I'd go with a Dana OR a late model Mopar 9"
Travis May
Member
The car didn't come with an 8 3/4" so I have to buy something new no matter what. For some reason, I thought 500HP+ started to push the limits of the 8 3/4". I could be totally be making that up so feel free to chime in if that's not accurate. The motor going in is 485HP stock, but it's very possible I will mod it above 500HP somewhere down the road.
And its a stick car ... pass on the 8-3/4.
8 3/4 can handle it unless your going to want to make more HP https://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/threads/how-much-hp-can-a-8-3-4-handle.47609/
Strange makes a 60 version.
Mike
Mike
1 MEAN66
Well-Known Member
I agree!!! I have 689 HP - 675Lbft going into a 8 3/4. Has 4.11's a tru-Trac in it (31 spline), Also have a set of 4.56's (35 spline) both built by DTS. Mark Williams parts, billet caps etc. 1.6 - 60ft times and it weighs 3500. Both are 742's. Only been "leaning" on it since 2006 though. And it weighs ALOT less than a 60. No Problems yet!!!! And I forgot: The housing is also back braced. And running the stock rear drums , 10 inch.10" a body disc up frt.
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Travis May
Member
Can you elaborate, please? Why do I want to pass because it's a stick shift?
How high would the stall be in a streetable converter, 3500 tops? What RPM might you dump the clutch in a stick car ... 5 - 6K maybe?! that's why you want the Dana. And its a B-body, not a lightweight a-body.
Anyhow, this has turned into the usual pissing match with the end result leaving you as confused as when you posted the question.
Anyhow, this has turned into the usual pissing match with the end result leaving you as confused as when you posted the question.
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There are generally more shock loads with a stick ,than an auto (not counting badass race trans with transbrakes). Its the shock loads that break stuff, not horsepower. A rear that will survive just fine behind an auto, may be marginal behind the same power in a stick car. Mopar put 8 3/4s behind 440s and hemis with an auto, dana 60 behind the same engines with a stick.
And the 440/ 4sp was rated at 375 gross hp, probably 320-340 net, compared to your 485 net hp.
My 62 dart running a 500 stroker with a 4.30 489 case 8 3/4 no problem, I can see you wanting security of a Dana but to me if a 8 3/4 is built right itll last unless you're going with some wide meat's outback, I've seen 9 second leaf spring cars do just fine ,just my opinion
I will just say you will not brake a Strange 60 on that car, a 8 3/4 maybe. A friend had a 69 GTX and he'd split a 8 3/4 every year. Installed a Dana and problem solved.
andyf
Well-Known Member
It is a technical decision, not emotional. Depends on which brakes you want to run, which gears and which differential. There are really only two good choices, an aftermarket 9 inch or an aftermarket Dana 60. They both have advantages and disadvantages but the only way to make a good decision is to get into the details. The aftermarket Ford 9 inch has a lot more choices for brakes, gears and differentials but an aftermarket Dana 60 might work depending on what your requirements are.
Find an older D60 and make what ya need. The 8 3/4 will hold up. Keep in mind, before the D60 was available, the 8 3/4 got the nod and was living behind Hemi’s. Your call, your wallet.
Mopar Hunter
Well-Known Member
If you decide on a new S60, Strange has free freight and 10% off still. Go through Doctor Diff.
F4R/T
Well-Known Member
The 9” has the most drag/ power loss of all diffs, the pinion is also very low in the case versus the 8&3/4, and that extra bearing is nothing much really also known as a pocket bearing.. Most 8&3/4 are factory built better from the get go, bigger bearings, add a back brace, buy premium gears and good limited slip and go racing with premium axles and pinion snubber... set up right and there is little to worry about if you break it then go to the dana 60. I guess you never seen the precious 9” with pinion ripped out of the bolt in snout ! A big Buick did it! Your call!
Don't forget the "cool" factor 
1 MEAN66
Well-Known Member
I agree with most all, You need to decide what you want from the vehicle and how you will use it. Mine has a 727. First one was a TCI full comp and a 9" - 4500 stall, and as i said it was so stupid it was fun on the "street". But after a bit that has been change now to a ATI Street/Strip 3500 stall. Before it was built I called and talked to them. They asked a ton of questions and I gave answers. Now it is a JOY to drive on the Street. The full comp hit second like I was just rear ended no matter how I drove it. But again it was designed as a drag strip trans. Now I wish I had done an overdrive. But !!!! As far as rears Go ( not to get side tracked) I did the same thing - call DTS and talked. Start with here get ideas, then call a few places that do what you think you want. They will help you make a decision. Just remember what ever you do you will probable change your mind a a later date. Rebecca likes the new trans. much better as the drag radials ( now 28' tall) do not come unglued as easy. Will be changing to 30" for this year.
Just to share with how goofy I am - want to but my drive line in a Henry J and drive it on the "STREET"!!!!!
andyf
Well-Known Member
For a resto mod with a Gen 3 in it I assume you're going four wheel disc brakes? With a six speed you probably want some deeper gears out back, maybe a 4.10? Have you figured out the gear splits yet? The S60 is available with a 4.10 but not a 3.90. If you have the Torino ends installed on the S60 then you'll have a larger selection of brakes. I went with a S60 with S Trac and 3.23 gears for my Coronet but fifth gear in my Coronet is 1:1 so I needed the higher ratio.
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