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Straightening kinked stainless trim, any advice appreciated.

QOTHL

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I've tried all the methods on youtube, I'm doing the right thing but because of the location of the kink, it's not coming out. This is on the stainless trim below the front grill and above the bumper on a 1970 RR. I probably need to hit it harder, just don't want to create more problems and don't have experience with this kind of damage.
 
50 year old stainless is very hard.
I've tried dent removal on a few pieces, not much luck.
 
50 year old stainless is very hard.
I've tried dent removal on a few pieces, not much luck.


I've done the stainless on 4 cars. This is for a friend and I suspect he threw it my way because he doesn't have time. I've taken out massive dents on 'Cuda cowl stainless as well as gouges - took some time to do it but it's on the car and you can't tell, looks like new. This is right on the character line and is giving me a headache. I'd really like to figure it out.
 
Need something solid for a backer/anvil.
20171109_143814.jpg


I had these to straighten out.
20171108_210612.jpg


https://www.forbbodiesonly.com/mopa...p-new-residence.114133/page-21#post-910817315
 
I've done a fair amount of SS and aluminum trim and a kinked piece of stainless might be where I draw the line and tell the guy to be looking for another piece as this one may well not survive. I hammered and tapped some pretty big dents and creases out of aluminum but it generally is thicker and gives you more to file and sand with. By the time you get the kink hammered and tapped out of SS and file it flat, it might be too tissue thin to stand up to buffing.
 
I've tried all the methods on youtube, I'm doing the right thing but because of the location of the kink, it's not coming out. This is on the stainless trim below the front grill and above the bumper on a 1970 RR. I probably need to hit it harder, just don't want to create more problems and don't have experience with this kind of damage.

Screen Shot 2021-02-16 at 4.41.30 PM.png


I'm assuming this is the trim your working on?
 
You will likely have to make an anvil out of scrap steel that fits inside of the trim so you can hit it hard. Grind the anvil smooth and polish it before you start.
 
You will likely have to make an anvil out of scrap steel that fits inside of the trim so you can hit it hard. Grind the anvil smooth and polish it before you start.

I did resort to using a piece of angle steel and sheet steel clamps. I shimmed the low spots and clamped the high spot and that did a lot. I'm still working on it and I feel more confident about it. If I can get it straight, I'm home free.
 


I've done stuff like that and, no offense, those pieces are easy compared to this piece I'm currently working on. I think part of the problem is that this has a lot of tight corners/edges. Those pieces you have look fairly open in the back, fairly easy to get to. This piece has a low spot right on the character line and some how the side that has the screw holes is stretched.
 
Sometimes if it is stretched you will have to cut it, remove some material and tig weld it. Tig weld only with trim as any other method causes issues with chrome plating if you need that. As far as the character line about all you can do is thin out a piece of flat steel that will fit in that area to almost a v, polish it, and work slow.
 
Sometimes if it is stretched you will have to cut it, remove some material and tig weld it. Tig weld only with trim as any other method causes issues with chrome plating if you need that. As far as the character line about all you can do is thin out a piece of flat steel that will fit in that area to almost a v, polish it, and work slow.


I did think about that and if it were my piece, I'd probably do it. I've taken almost all of the low area out of the character line, I just have a thing for getting it perfect even though this is a twisted POC. I've got an idea I haven't tried yet, I'll let you know if it works.
 
Just wondering where you acquired a piece of rail track? How much does that weigh?

I believe I found it at a garage/yard sale years ago. Been hanging onto it for a long time and finally put it to use doing my stainless. It weighs enough that it doesn't move around much. When I used the side of it I just clamped it to the bench.
 
I sometimes use a series of flat blade screwdrivers in the tight character line.
It takes a lot more time because of the light touch required but allows easier access.
 
I sometimes use a series of flat blade screwdrivers in the tight character line.
It takes a lot more time because of the light touch required but allows easier access.


I did try that as well as chisels but bought a set of jewelers hammers that has a nice smooth "edge" head, rounded corners that works well. I needed something with more hitting power so used a curved body dolly with a narrow edge. Worked really well. I'd post photos of what I'm doing and using but am really feeling my way around solving problems. If what I'm doing doesn't work, there's no point in posting photos so I'll wait to see how this comes out. I thought I was going to have to build something and was getting ready to start cutting steel then just used the piece of angle and some paint sticks to force the bend out of it with a combination of sheet metal and welding clamps. Sounds stupid but seems to have worked. I'll know when I get ready to polish it.
 
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