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440 block- current prices

My machinist guy is not a Mopar specialist but has seen a variety of engines over the years. When I brought him my 383 last year, he said that it was one of the hardest blocks that he had seen. The boring machine had to be shut off to cool down after each cylinder.
I can vouch for that. When we were machining my Hemi block. It took days boring the cam tunnel out for 55MM roller cam bearings. Everyone commented on the quality of iron content. Even better than all of the aftermarket Dart Racing blocks we machine.
 
Update. The stars aligned and I am now the proud owner of a ‘69 standard bore short block. The seller couldn’t have been any better, and his price was fair, not crazy.

Now the fun begins.
 
thje motorhome 440 block you want is like this one if your going later 440's , these have extra thick cylinder walls they can be bored to 4.5 if needed . most can't go bigger than 4.38 the walls are much thinner . even the hp blocks .
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thje motorhome 440 block you want is like this one if your going later 440's , these have extra thick cylinder walls they can be bored to 4.5 if needed . most can't go bigger than 4.38 the walls are much thinner . even the hp blocks . View attachment 1077938 View attachment 1077940

There isn't a factory Mopar block that will go 4.500" The closest you'll ever get is a sonic checked 400. They could go 4.400"
Doug
 
doug , the machinist did a sonic test all the cylinders , the block is .06 over now and he claimed we could go that big on this one , of course i'd want to stay on the smaller sized bore . racetec had no issues on pistons , and these lots of ring sizes in between 4.38 and 4.5 bores . my plan is the min bore on that block and 4.5 bryant crank 7.1 rods , alum stage 6 mw ported . mw intake to make 800 hp at 6500 rpm with monster torque .
 
It would be nice to see that block with a middle frost plug out of it, it would have to be siamesed to go 4.500. I am not saying your machinist is wrong, just that it would be an odd block.
 
In the past 5 yrs I’ve seen two late ‘70’s NY’ers go the crusher with their 440s still in place.
I just got a similar deal for a complete carb to tail shaft 400 4bbl motor out of a NYorker with 50k for well under a grand
 
I just got a similar deal for a complete carb to tail shaft 400 4bbl motor out of a NYorker with 50k for well under a grand
check the trans numbers, if it is a non lockup, that is a good transmssion.
 
that is the high performance package, same as the police pkg.my 77 Cordoba has that, with the factory tow pkg and 9 1/4 rear diff/
 
doug , the machinist did a sonic test all the cylinders , the block is .06 over now and he claimed we could go that big on this one .
Think about it. 4.500" is .180" overbore. Even if every spot sonic checked at .250", very unlikely. The walls would only be .160".
Doug
 
My machinist guy is not a Mopar specialist but has seen a variety of engines over the years. When I brought him my 383 last year, he said that it was one of the hardest blocks that he had seen. The boring machine had to be shut off to cool down after each cylinder.
Mopar cast had high nickel content. That's why they lasted so long.
 
I've had a late 70's standard bore block listed locally for $200 - I can't even get an offer for it.
 
well i'm hoping it will clean up at 4.4 bore thats .02 over the 4.38 bore , walls thickness shown a sonic reading on the thrust side of the cylinder .212 , so 4.5 is not a go . hoping for a clean bore below 4.44 bore dia . thanks doug , i think that the machinist was looking to build another lower end when this one scattered .
 
I dropped the block off at the machine shop to have it hot-tanked and magna fluxed. He’s really backed up but I’m in no rush.

It measures up to be a standard bore with a steel crank. Fingers crossed!

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I drove home this Dodge motorhome with a 440 that I bought for $500.00. Some deals are still out there. Parted it out for the cab parts, stove, sink, fridge, windows etc for about $1200.00 in parts and kept the complete 440 & 727. So, I made $700.00 and engine & trans were free. Just alot of labor.

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I have been trying to PM but no luck you would you try a PM to me? I'd like to talk to you about the motorhome engine you have. Many thanks
 
I sell bare blocks for $500 each. Tanked and sonic checked. That seems to be an okay price in OR. Prices in VT could be a lot more.
I certainly would count you in the few who I would trust to sell me a sonic checked block that was a good foundation for a stroker build.
Still, for my situation, looking for as close to 700 Ft Lbs of Torque and as wide a band in that range as possible, and a RPM limit that will have my combo somewhere in the 6XX HP range, I can justify in my mind going with the Bill Mitchell Products aluminum RB big bore block. I may want to have 150-200 shot of Nitrous available, and with a factory stock block, I would not be confident of it holding up.
 
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