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Hydraulic Lifter Set

MNMOPAR

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Jul 7, 2020
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Location
Minnesota
Today installed a new flat tappet into a 383 from a Mopar oriented shop. I noticed 4 of the 16 the plunger look different. They also pumped up just cleaning them with brake cleaner. No holes vs holes in the plunger. What is the difference. All from the same set.
IMG_20210503_144643456.jpg
 
You sure those four aren't solids? Kinda looks like it... I'd be looking further & making a phone call....
 
Don't look like a matched set of lifters to me! Looks like those 4 missed part of the machining process. 440'
 
I'm guessing missing operation as well. They do have retainers and they did move when dry.
 
Lifters that are “correct” for a BB will not have holes for pushrod oiling.

Old stock for a SB may be the same as well, but many cam grinders and parts suppliers sell what I refer to as the “universal” lifter...... like a Sealed Power HL-2011, which can be used in SB, BB, and AMC applications, and they have the pushrod oiling holes.

The pushrod oil feed hole is only necessary if you’re pushrod oiling.
 
I would choose the lifter without the unnecessary holes.
 
I try and use the “correct” lifters in BB applications(high narrow oil band, no pushrod oiling), but I’m not sure that’s an option for a SB.
The SB has the lower, wider oil band....... and any lifters I’ve seen in the last 25 years or so with that oil band has had the pushrod oiling.

Edit: looks like the Mopar lifters for a SB, P3614321, came without pushrod oiling holes....... at least that’s how it appeared to be in the 2001 catalog.
 
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I try and use the “correct” lifters in BB applications(high narrow oil band, no pushrod oiling)

Like the factory original. About 5 years ago I sold my set of 30 year old Mopar Performance lifters. What a mistake.

Started my GTS up after sitting 5 years. Not one noisey lifter. Motor still buzzes 7000 rpm. I suspect there is no Mopar hydraulic lifter that can do that today.
 
You better hope that cam never goes bad!!

Yup..... you def should have kept those lifters.
You couldn’t have gotten enough for them to make a difference to your life....... and they don’t take up much room on the shelf.

Hopefully the new owner is making good use of them.
 
Because of this, solids for me from now on. Possibly a hydraulic profile lashed to 0.003" with solid lifters.
 
I was trying to think of the last hyd cammed Mopar I had on the dyno where I was really pretty happy with the cam & lifter operation.
There may have been a few that I just don’t remember....... but the one that came to mind was a 448 with a very old DC 510/292 cam & lifters(racer brown ssh-44) that I had on the dyno some time around the year 2000.
Pulled well over 6k no problems.

At the moment, any other one I can think of had some sort of lifter issue going on at an rpm lower than I would have liked.

My preference is def solid lifters........ even for pretty mild stuff.
 
35 year old hydrauilc cam and lifters

 
I was trying to think of the last hyd cammed Mopar I had on the dyno where I was really pretty happy with the cam & lifter operation.
There may have been a few that I just don’t remember....... but the one that came to mind was a 448 with a very old DC 510/292 cam & lifters(racer brown ssh-44) that I had on the dyno some time around the year 2000.
Pulled well over 6k no problems.

At the moment, any other one I can think of had some sort of lifter issue going on at an rpm lower than I would have liked.

My preference is def solid lifters........ even for pretty mild stuff.

And yet when you call to order a cam they always seem surprised that you would be asking for a solid flat tappet... I talk to three grinders yesterday... None had any cores for a Mopar BB...
 
Cores are available for solid rollers............
 
take the tappets with the holes apart and see if there's a disc under the push rod cup; bet there is. i'd be more concerned about what looks like 3/8" ball cups vs 5/16" cups. i wouldn't use mis-matched cups.
 
Boy, Id like to get my hands on some machines to make them.
 
take the tappets with the holes apart and see if there's a disc under the push rod cup; bet there is. i'd be more concerned about what looks like 3/8" ball cups vs 5/16" cups. i wouldn't use mis-matched cups.

Good eye. Just appropriately mis-match the pushrods too.
 
i've taken a bunch of tappets apart before and pretty sure that little metal disc prevents the push oiling. take the disc out and then you have AMC tappets,...?? direct connection years ago had some hydraulic tappets with 3/8" cups, but haven't seen that in years. the concern i would have is a preload difference between the two with stamped steel rockers. the stuff can be mocked up and checked with a checking push rod to see if there's any major differences.
 
The metering disc is usually there to......well.....”meter”..... the oil going to the top end with pushrod oiling.
If the pushrod cup has no oil hole, there’s no need for the disc.

Different brands of lifters untilize different types of metering discs to do that job.
 
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