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Continuity tester with a difference

Mike Szadaj

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Jan 17, 2019
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St. Clair Shores, Mi
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For years when tracing down electrical problems in cars I have used a method that has been extremely helpful at times. While checking for shorts, opens, and trying to figure out what wire goes to what component, sometimes I have found it very helpful to stick a pin into the wire and then attach the meter or continuity tester to the pin. Here is a device that does just that. You pull back the spike with the round trigger, grab the wire with the hook shaped end of the tool, connect the alligator clip to a voltage source, and then using the trigger, you pierce the installation of the wire. If there is continuity the body of the tool lights up. I thought my pin method was pretty clever, but this takes it to another level.
 
That works in some places around most it will cause more trouble than it is worth with corroded wires
OTC makes one that has multiple pricks that are small enough to not damage wire
but old wires it still does
 
Fluke has that adapter but much smaller, wire corrosion is the downfall down the line
 
A lot of shops can not use them because of so many problems with corrosion especially warranty claims
 
I watch a U-Haul rep use scotch locks on a customers truck and I told the customer to have some one fix the damaged wires as soon as he got home and before they screwed up his lights the UHaul rep was not happy with me and told me to mind my own business
So I responded only and idiot would ruin wiring that way
 
I use the Fluke piercing clip quite often at work, but it’s a 60 year old aluminum plant… a tiny hole is the least of my worries. I’d be more cautious in an automotive environment (especially anything under the hood).
 
I watch a U-Haul rep use scotch locks on a customers truck and I told the customer to have some one fix the damaged wires as soon as he got home and before they screwed up his lights the UHaul rep was not happy with me and told me to mind my own business
So I responded only and idiot would ruin wiring that way
Spot on, on a side note you should see the damage I see on my customers cars that have a none factory remote start installed on their new cars. It's criminal to hack up a cars harness like that. I usually remove them within 2 to 3 years because of the issues that arise.
 
Seriously? I've been using liquid tape for years, it's better than shrink tube for multiple wire splices.
 
Seriously? I've been using liquid tape for years, it's better than shrink tube for multiple wire splices.
Never heard of it before.

What is the voltage rating for that stuff? I cannot imagine it is safe for mains voltages 230V - 400V :eek:
 
Here's a shot of a cable I was tailing down for connection to the roadside pillar on Monday this week. Aluminium 70mm 4-core down to 16mm copper as the fuses only take copper cable. I use Raychem heat-shrinks ...heavy wall mostly. That 4-way breakout boot is also a Raychem item. Using Aluminium cable for the run to the house due to voltage drop over 75 metres.....quarter the price of copper.

The links shown are barrier isolated sheer bolt links.

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I'll have a chance to use my new Insulation Resistance test meter next week when I connect up. :thumbsup:
 
Seriously? I've been using liquid tape for years, it's better than shrink tube for multiple wire splices.
I will agree somewhat. The mining industry approves of liquid tape in certain situations. It does eventually crack under vibration.
 
I will agree somewhat. The mining industry approves of liquid tape in certain situations. It does eventually crack under vibration.
I can't see me being allowed to use it at the Quarry where I work. The rocks and fines would cut through in no time at all.
All the plates for mounting switchgear on have to be hardened steel.....normal steel rusts away in a year or two. And the fine get stuck in cable looms, and eventually rub through even the heaviest insulations.

I repaired some heavy duty Steel-Wire-Armoured cables at Christmas time that had rubbed all the PVC outer off, and had started on the steel armour too. I could see inner conductor PVC. :eek:
 
I will agree somewhat. The mining industry approves of liquid tape in certain situations. It does eventually crack under vibration.
Yeah, I can see that. I'm not talking about heavy industrial purposes for myself though. For the original mention of touching up a pierced wire on a 12v system, it will do just fine. I've got it in black and red liquids.
 
Back probe only. A poke in the insulation and the slightest bit of moisture and corrosion changes the continuity and can mess with anything computer related. Silicone for a sealer is the worst.
 
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