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Replacing My 67 Coronet Trunk pan

Bold & Old

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I am good with sheet metal and welding most of my life replacing panels of all sorts of cars but never worked on any Mopars til two years ago.

I have a nice 67 R/T that has beautiful original sheet.

Someone put a double bottom behind the spare tire from under the car.

11 11 21 001.JPG


11 11 21 068.JPG


I removed the rust free trunk pan because of the previous owner ruin the trunk floor by welding another bottom. The gas tank will not fit because of it.

I removed the entire original trunk floor and cleaned up the remaining nice floor supports.

I have a new AMD trunk panel ready to go into go in.
11 11 21 067.JPG


I have read some where here that the tail pan must be removed in order to install it.

I also read somewhere that the pan can be cut so as to be able to put new panel in form the top.

i would like not to remove the back panel to do so.

I would like to install the pan thru the trunk cavity by cutting the new panel over the frame rail like the picture shows.

11 11 21 085.JPG

trunk.jpg

Like to hear some of your ideas pertaining to this cut.

some of the pictures do not show the bare frames as they are now.

Thank you.... Happy Thanksgiving.............:usflag:
 
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I did a trunk pan replacement in a 67 Belvedere with a full width pan.

I removed the quarter panel end caps and cut about 2” sections out of the trunk gutter between the taillight opening and the trunk opening. Once the pan was in and welded I just welded the cut out chunks back in.

I’ll get some pictures tomorrow.
 
I am good with sheet metal and welding most of my life replacing panels of all sorts of cars but never worked on any Mopars til two years ago.

I have a nice 67 R/T that has beautiful original sheet.

Someone put a double bottom behind the spare tire from under the car.

View attachment 1198642

View attachment 1198652

I removed the rust free trunk pan because of the previous owner ruin the trunk floor by welding another bottom. The gas tank will not fit because of it.

I removed the entire original trunk floor and cleaned up the remaining nice floor supports.

I have a new AMD trunk panel ready to go into go in.
View attachment 1198654

I have read some where here that the tail pan must be removed in order to install it.

I also read somewhere that the pan can be cut so as to be able to put new panel in form the top.

i would like not to remove the back panel to do so.

I would like to install the pan thru the trunk cavity by cutting the new panel over the frame rail like the picture shows.

View attachment 1198659
View attachment 1198661
Like to hear some of your ideas pertaining to this cut.

some of the pictures do not show the bare frames as they are now.

Thank you.... Mike
 
I went on that cut line on amd panel...... there is no way you will get full panel in without removing tail panel out of the way. I tried every way possible to get it in. It gets close but won't go in. if you cut neatly on that line you'll never see it under and little skim and no one will know. My 2 cents
 
rather than cutting right down the middle of the frame rails, consider cutting right on the frame rail flange (new red line)....it will make welding much easier as the flange will "back up" the weld.......... and you can probably keep your original spotwelds for the "original" look by cutting along side the spot welds


67pan.JPG
 
Here are some before and after pictures of when I inserted the trunk pan. A couple things to note though....I put a 68-70 charger pan in my 67 belvedere so I could get the exhaust out the back with a mini-tub. The charger pan doesn't have the tire well so if you took this route you would have to measure to ensure the tire well would clear the bottom trunk lip. Also, your coronet tail lights are not as tall as the belvedere opening....it may be difficult to get the height needed.

While I had the sections out, I put a piece of 1/8" strap steel with studs welded in them to go through the innermost end cap holes. That way if I accidently leaned on the quarter, it wouldn't collapse the taillight area. Those only came out for trial fits but were put in otherwise....right up until I welded the cut out sections back in.

IMG_0866.JPG IMG_0451.jpg
 
rather than cutting right down the middle of the frame rails, consider cutting right on the frame rail flange (new red line)....it will make welding much easier as the flange will "back up" the weld.......... and you can probably keep your original spotwelds for the "original" look by cutting along side the spot welds


View attachment 1198757
I am not use to chatting on a social media setting and may make some unintended mistakes.

please bear with me all.

I read your posts sir pertaining to replacing the entire trunk and rear fender panels.

You did a great job...... and your techniques of doing so. Bravo eldubb440

first off the picture is a old photo like I said in the post.

all of the old pan has been removed so no spot weld holes... I choose the use a 4 inch cutter that worked very well with the lease amount of cutting.

however I plan on drilling some smaller holes from the top as the project goes forward.

I wont dwell on that now.......... as I have a different similar way to what you suggest here.

I am a thinker and sometimes off the charts ways of doing things..... most of my life.

my results are aways the way I planned it with a few bumps along the way.

When I started this post in retrospect I should have said

"what is the best way to get a new full pan in the trunk opening without taking the rear panel out"

one person here has address this... in his opinion in this post above.

I have no problems with making cuts on the new panel (not the old) other than cutting down the middle in the tire well cavity.

The car was rust proofed from dealership when it was new... and had a lot of tar like substance I removed.

previous owner painted over some of the rust proofing in photo.


11 11 21 024.JPG


I will explain later
 
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I welded in a flat trunk floor and the cut lines were along the inner edges of the main floor leaving the factory spot welds. This was to have, as someone above mentioned, the "backing" of the factory frame rail top surface behind my welds, rather than have the open frame rail cavity under my weld line...
 
I did a trunk pan replacement in a 67 Belvedere with a full width pan.

I removed the quarter panel end caps and cut about 2” sections out of the trunk gutter between the taillight opening and the trunk opening. Once the pan was in and welded I just welded the cut out chunks back in.

I’ll get some pictures tomorrow.

yes sir I would like to see that........

Happy Thanksgiving to you and all!
 
I welded in a flat trunk floor and the cut lines were along the inner edges of the main floor leaving the factory spot welds. This was to have, as someone above mentioned, the "backing" of the factory frame rail top surface behind my welds, rather than have the open frame rail cavity under my weld line...

yes sir I agree... and is in my plan Ghostrider 67. Thank you:thumbsup:

I plan on using aircraft Cleo s in my reconstruction on both sides of the open frame rails using copper sheet between all cuts to be welded.

Remember my plan of reconstruction will be not be the traditional way of replacement....

My original trunk pan being as clean as it was...

I was surprised to find about 30% of the original factory welds were either not welded or broken from 50+ years of use.

This 30% is on the entire factory welded surface of the trunk pan and there are many.
 
I went on that cut line on amd panel...... there is no way you will get full panel in without removing tail panel out of the way. I tried every way possible to get it in. It gets close but won't go in. if you cut neatly on that line you'll never see it under and little skim and no one will know. My 2 cents
Were you able to get the panel in by cutting the panel in the manner you described?

before I cut I need to to know for sure........
 
yes sir I would like to see that........

Happy Thanksgiving to you and all!
Bold and Old. Check a few post above. I put some before and after pictures of how I got a full width trunk pan in without removing the entire rear panel
 
Bold and Old. Check a few post above. I put some before and after pictures of how I got a full width trunk pan in without removing the entire rear panel
The 67 Coronet has the tire well and may be more difficult to get in than a flat floor.

Trimming will be a must to get in..... it appears that your wheel wells have been removed for easier installing.

Thanks for your post.
 
67 GTX floor pan.jpg
I cut as described there. I didn't have that guide but I cut it the same. I cut it right in the middle of flat of the frame rail you got about an inch of flat surface . Then put the two pieces in. Amd is a really good fit. once I laid the pieces in and where they are supposed to go. I went under and chalked the line along frame rail. Then you'll know where to drill for spot-welds. (spot weld look alikes with mig) Hope that helps.... again just my 2 cents
 
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I plan on starting my cut very soon on the new trunk panel so if there is a
View attachment 1199386 I cut as described there. I didn't have that guide but I cut it the same. I cut it right in the middle of flat of the frame rail you got about an inch of flat surface . Then put the two pieces in. Amd is a really good fit. once I laid the pieces in and where they are supposed to go. I went under and chalked the line along frame rail. Then you'll know where to drill for spot-welds. (spot weld look alikes with mig) Hope that helps.... again just my 2 cents

yes sir this is what I am looking for......... only one cut as the photo shows.

any trouble of getting the pan thru the opening?
 
I plan on starting my cut very soon on the new trunk panel so if there is a


yes sir this is what I am looking for......... only one cut as the photo shows.

any trouble of getting the pan thru the opening?
you'll have to measure the pan carefully on the table. Measure frame on car very carefully. Then measure again and cut. it would be easier to cut panel to have the cut fall in the middle of frame channel. I did it to fall on the flat edges of the frame channel. I personally feel cutting for the middle is fine. Just line it up good and weld it shut. Keep in mind you will be chalking all the lines underneath where the frame is. In and out many times marking then drill holes for weld. I hope this helps.
 
Here are some before and after pictures of when I inserted the trunk pan. A couple things to note though....I put a 68-70 charger pan in my 67 belvedere so I could get the exhaust out the back with a mini-tub. The charger pan doesn't have the tire well so if you took this route you would have to measure to ensure the tire well would clear the bottom trunk lip. Also, your coronet tail lights are not as tall as the belvedere opening....it may be difficult to get the height needed.

While I had the sections out, I put a piece of 1/8" strap steel with studs welded in them to go through the innermost end cap holes. That way if I accidently leaned on the quarter, it wouldn't collapse the taillight area. Those only came out for trial fits but were put in otherwise....right up until I welded the cut out sections back in.

View attachment 1198831 View attachment 1198832
the way you did that was cool... I think if I ever did that again i would try that. Nice work
 
you'll have to measure the pan carefully on the table. Measure frame on car very carefully. Then measure again and cut. it would be easier to cut panel to have the cut fall in the middle of frame channel. I did it to fall on the flat edges of the frame channel. I personally feel cutting for the middle is fine. Just line it up good and weld it shut. Keep in mind you will be chalking all the lines underneath where the frame is. In and out many times marking then drill holes for weld. I hope this helps.

Yes to all you said here....

did you have any problem getting the pan thru the trunk opening after the cut?
 
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