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Engine Support Bar For Transmission

Coronet_Arch

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I bought an Engine Support Bar to support the rear of the engine while I have the transmission removed from my Coronet. I know I can use a jack and a piece of wood to support it if I keep it stationary. I plan on moving the car around for some other work while the transmission is removed.

I bought the engine support bar from Amazon. It is a 'VEVOR Engine Support Bar 1100 Lbs Capacity Engine Transverse Bar Engine Hoist' as listed on Amazon. The product was manufacturer in China and came without instructions. The assembly appeared to be pretty obvious and the product actually is a little better than the one pictured on Amazon as the lifting bar screws have ball bearings under the raising handle that should allow for easier adjusting of the lifting screws.
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Fender Support

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Screw Posts Hardware

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Assembled Screw Posts

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Assembled Support Bar on car.

I have not hooked it to the engine yet. There were 4 washers with the screw posts. Do you think I should double the washers under the screw posts or did they ship two extra washers?
 
Your new tool looks nice.

I'm about to remove the transmission in my 73 and want to support the engine as well. I need to be able to pull a car under the 73 while this is in progress, so, like you, I can't leave a stationary support under the car to the floor.

I plan on using a ratchet strap, with the hooks up above the engine compartment hooked to something. I may use a 2x4 or even the diagonal braces that 73 Road Runners have.
VH-Strap-R6.jpg


I plan to route the strap below the oil pan. Hopefully it will provide enough support to not beat on the motor mounts too much. Time will tell but your tool certainly looks like a nice design to support the back of the engine.
To your question: I don't think you need the extra washers. You are not lifting the weight of the engine, merely providing some support for the back so it doesn't hang on the mounts. My guess would be it is supporting max 100-150 pounds.
 
2x4's are not ideal for use to support an engine. There are so many different grades of 2x4's available, structural select on down. 2x4's are not ideal horizontal members, they have to be orientated so that the narrow edge (1-1/2") rests on the inner fender with the tall dimension (3-1/2") vertical. 2x lumber is sized to be repetitive members, meaning a series of members attached together on the top and bottom. A house or deck floor is an example of a repetitive member system, the top is connected by the decking material and bridging is installed at midspan to keep them from bending out of plane on the bottom. Additionally the points where the straps rest of the 2x4 determine the load the 2x4 experiences.

The suggestion of using a heavy wall tube or pipe is much better than using a 2x4. The strength of the steel and the location of the load come into play in the safety of the system.
 
There is very little weight being supported. If it’s going to set you can use a small ratchet tie down. If your swapping a trans there is no need to support the engine beyond the stock mounts. You can slip a piece of wood between the center link and oil pan if you don’t need to steer it. Heck at the dealer we would hang a cradle down on the rear or one side by the 2 remaining bolts holding the motor and transaxle on a daily basis.
Doug
 
Have always done like Doug says, 2x4 on the center link.
 
Doug is spot on. I have done each what he said. A 2x4 oriented with 4 in the vertical is plenty strong enough for the little weight it has to support. If you need to move the car around a lot, the wood under the center link doesn't work as good, but used that MANY times.
 
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As an old man, trying to install my new TKX 5 speed wasn't going well.. 109 pds and it would NOT go in.. $7 sling from Hf on my engine hoist lifted it while I wiggled it in.... Worked better than I though it would
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