Stopping rust in situ.

[SteveSS]

The new Coronet has some rust in the trunk. Not enough to go cutting and replacing but I'd like it to stop where it's at. I googled it and all I get is commercials for whatever rust inhibitor that site is pushing. I just want to spray or brush something on that's fairly cost-effective. I think I remember there's some crazy expensive stuff from Eastwood but I'm not doing a restoration.

 

[Beekeeper]

Rust-mort by SEM is good stuff and not
overly expensive

 

[DeltaV]

My 70 year old neighbor down the road from me owned his own paint and body shop for decades. He swears by Ospho.
http://www.ospho.com

 

[toolmanmike]

The new Coronet has some rust in the trunk. Not enough to go cutting and replacing but I'd like it to stop where it's at. I googled it and all I get is commercials for whatever rust inhibitor that site is pushing. I just want to spray or brush something on that's fairly cost-effective. I think I remember there's some crazy expensive stuff from Eastwood but I'm not doing a restoration.

What is situ?

 

[DeltaV]

In situ means in its original place.

 

[69 Sleeper Bee]

My 70 year old neighbor down the road from me owned his own paint and body shop for decades. He swears by Ospho.
http://www.ospho.com

I painted all my old antique farm implements with Ospho 30 years or so ago and it has been outside on the fence and still looks good but could probably use a re- coat but hey it’s outside in the elements.
Great stuff IMHO.

 

[69SatelliteGuy]

Rust Mort and Master Series. Master Series is like the best coating for rusted metal, local guy sells it and has a rim he's sat out for like 15 years. Still looks tops.

 

[ro23j]

The new Coronet has some rust in the trunk. Not enough to go cutting and replacing but I'd like it to stop where it's at. I googled it and all I get is commercials for whatever rust inhibitor that site is pushing. I just want to spray or brush something on that's fairly cost-effective. I think I remember there's some crazy expensive stuff from Eastwood but I'm not doing a restoration.

I have a 2006 Dodge Ram that I bought new and noticed some rusty looking paint bubbles over the rear wheel opening on the driver's side. I cleaned out the poorly designed area between the quarter panel brace and the bed and sprayed Fluid Film into the area. At the same time, I also treated the passenger side. 4 years later and no further progression of the rust on the driver's side and no evidence of rust on the passenger side. My recommendation is Fluid Film.

 

[Ron H]

I've used Rust-0-Leum 2 and 1 rust reform and seal around $12 a quart doing the underside of my replacement truck box; so far so good with it; but this went on over sanded down paint/primer. I've also used Extend rust stop on some projects. Another product I used was a thick brush on primer (can't find the can I have somewhere but it went on thick). Used this on the floor and trunk of my car before dyno-matting the cab. These were all brush on applications. Yep there are endless products to choose from so read some reviews and made a few selections.

 

[SteveSS]

I wasn't familiar with the correct term. I think what I meant was rust converter. Mainly turning rust into iron phosphate. Watch this study. Only one product worked well at all. It was Rust Kutter which I think you can buy at Tractor Supply.

 

[747mopar]

There's many methods. Someone mentioned Fluid film.. it's great for coating the insides of doors, rockers, frames, etc but it's messy and shouldn't be used where you'll be putting anything because it stays slimy. There's several encapsulator products out there as well like Por 15 and Rust Bullet that work well for basically sealing the rust from the elements, these usually don't require aggressive rust removal making them an easy fix. Then there's the cleaners and converters, these work well but now you're talking about a bit more prep work and a final coating once completed. The best method is naturally the messiest, a small blaster to remove all of the rust followed by epoxy primer.

I've yet to use Ospho but have heard nothing but good things about it, I'll definitely get my hands on some to find out for myself.

 

[Ron H]

Two construction companies I know of use fluid film for their truck fleet and like it, it works well, but they’ve said it needs to be recoated periodically and can’t be painted over unless removing it for prep. POR15 a popular product and have used it, except it doesn’t stick well on coated surfaces, works great on bare rusted or scarified metal.

 

[HawkRod]

Great thread and great discussion.

One of the key takeaways I get from this thread so far (and the video) is the best product depends on where it is to be used and for what purpose. Foe example, it does not sound like Fluid Film should be used in @SteveSS application. I assume he has dry, and perhaps flaky rust in the trunk. I would further assume that he would want to topcoat it.

So perhaps some sanding to get most of the rust, then Rust Cutter, and then topcoat?

 

[Danny Boy]

 

[747mopar]

I wasn't familiar with the correct term. I think what I meant was rust converter. Mainly turning rust into iron phosphate. Watch this study. Only one product worked well at all. It was Rust Kutter which I think you can buy at Tractor Supply.

I don't see SEM in there? I used their cleaner/converter on a rusty truck roof.. time will tell but it looked like it worked.

This was solid rust, I removed everything I could then treated it.

 

[BobH]

I've used Evapo-rust with good results, but that's been for pieces that I can soak in it. Directions say you can use it on panels by soaking paper towels, but I haven't tried that.

 

[440 4 speed]

Vinegar also removes rust.

 

[Corman]

SEM Rust Seal

 

[SteveSS]

Sorry for the Latin. We use it all the time in the geology field. Like if you found a Tyrannosaurus Rex skull in situ means it was still encased in the rock bed and not removed. It just becomes a short easy way to say it.