Fan Clutch Engagement Adjust

[BMosely]

I have a Hayden 2947 on the 440 build but the come on temp is too high for my tastes, about 190* on the engine I think. I researched and cut a new groove at position A(below) and it should have dropped the come on about 20*. It did not seem to change anything. Is B the correct way to move? The car is running 180* and well but I am getting hot creep in heavy traffic. I have already chased a bunch of things but at the end of the day it just is not moving enough air at hot idle.

 

[1 Wild R/T]

Aim a heat gun at it and see which way it moves... If you don't have a heat gun maybe a propane torch used with due caution...

 

[pnora]

190 Is not to hot. Do you have the correct fitting shroud? What degree t-stat?

 

[BMosely]

Here is the math.
440 iron heads. New build 425hp crank. 1800 miles on the clock. Holley 780 quick fuel carb. Timing at 17* base and 35* total with MSD ready to run and 18* max limit stopper installed.
Was 180* tstat standard and the shown impeller type water pump. Now, High flow 180* tstat and flow cool high volume water pump. Champion 3 row, 26” aluminum radiator. Mopar fan from 318 a/c car (7 blade I think). Shroud is 100% coverage with 1” relief to blade tips. (Shown in pic above). Fan is 1/2 in the shroud.
50/50 antifreeze. A/c is not charged, but everything including the condenser is in place. (2) 1100 cfm 10” electric pusher fans mounted on the condenser. They engage at 185* engine temp.

Again, everything runs, holds at 180-185* except in heavy traffic where it starts creeping up to 200-210*. Then I start getting vapor lock and idle issues. The winter hid most of this as it was not an issue. With the 80* temps now it is showing as a problem.

 

[pnora]

Post some pictures of your radiator and fan shroud set up.

 

[BMosely]

Pics. Electrics mounted on condensor.

 

[69hemibeep]

210 is getting warm but not hot unless the gauge is wrong. As far as the clutch goes you may as well get rid of it and put a spacer in if you want it to engage before 190.

 

[Frank Mopar]

I’m a poster boy for running colder plugs before you change anything else.

 

[Jeff Peterson]

By the pictures, it looks like the shroud is so close to the core it's not allowing good air flow anywhere but at the fan.

 

[Frank Mopar]

Before you change everything but the car, must read.

https://www.championautoparts.com/Technical/Tech-Tips/choosing-the-right-spark-plug-heat-range.html

 

[dadsbee]

Step 1 is to put a thermal gun on things and verify the temperature reading, as 210F shouldn't cause any issues that are being described. If that temperature reading is correct, then something else is causing your issues...

 

[BMosely]

By the pictures, it looks like the shroud is so close to the core it's not allowing good air flow anywhere but at the fan.

Hard to see, but the face of shroud is 3/4" off of the core. The Champions have relief for mounting the shrouds.

 

[BMosely]

Before you change everything but the car, must read.

https://www.championautoparts.com/Technical/Tech-Tips/choosing-the-right-spark-plug-heat-range.html

Current plug is an Autolite 25. Step is down to 24 or jump to 23?

 

[BMosely]

Step 1 is to put a thermal gun on things and verify the temperature reading, as 210F shouldn't cause any issues that are being described. If that temperature reading is correct, then something else is causing your issues...

I will shoot it, but we have the Dakota Digital dash and all of the gauges read pretty tight.

Thanks for all of the input.

 

[Dave6T4]

A high volume pump can move move coolant so fast through the radiator that it does not have a chance to lose heat. There is a careful balance between impeller type and pump pulley size to get correct flow rate.

 

[MCODECUDA]

If it were me I’d trash all of that aftermarket crap and put it back to stock. I ran all stock parts including the 22” 3 core radiator and the stock Mopar clutch fan on my M-code ‘cuda and it rarely got over 180 ever.

 

[dadsbee]

Everyone is spitballing, but missing the fact that there is zero reason for a RUNNING car to get vapour lock symptoms at 210F coolant temperature. The cause is somewhere else, or the problem is more than likely something else.

 

[Frank Mopar]

Go down two. As long as its doesn't foul you csn go down even more. Cant hurt a thing going colder.

 

[pnora]

Step 1 is to put a thermal gun on things and verify the temperature reading, as 210F shouldn't cause any issues that are being described. If that temperature reading is correct, then something else is causing your issues...

Also scan across all the tubes looking for changes in temperature.

 

[RJRENTON]

A high volume pump can move move coolant so fast through the radiator that it does not have a chance to lose heat. There is a careful balance between impeller type and pump pulley size to get correct flow rate.

Your assumption is incorrect: "move coolant so fast through the radiator that it does not have a chance to lose heat". IF what you say is true, what about the coolant that remains in the block.....it will continue to absorb heat (the phenomenon is called superheat). Since there is only one pump or circulating device, you CANNOT "slow the coolant flow" in one half of the circuit (radiator) without decreasing the flow in the other half of the circuit (heat source or block). One of the fundamental principles of thermodynamics is volume (gallons/hr) & temperature (degrees F) x time, like Btu's (heat)/hr. The two conditions cannot exist simultaneously in the same system. Conversely, the faster the coolant is circulated the MORE heat will be transferred from the source (block) to the heat exchanger (radiator). Suggest that you read some of the thermodynamic principles for a better understanding.
BOB RENTON