Noise / rattling during cruise /idle with video

[steve340]

I would guess that is a main bearing or a conrod bearing issue after watching your video.

 

[Sixpactogo]

I had a knock similar to that. I suspected a rod or wrist pin but it ended up being the fuel pump. The spring in the fuel pump arm got weak and it was rattling against the push rod. Get a steth-o-scope and put the probe on the fuel pump at idle. You should be able to tell if it is coming from that.

 

[RemCharger]

The 10 lbs oil pressure and flickering oil inspires no confidence over here.. I'd be checking the oil for shimmer and throwing a new HV pump at it. If not too late

 

[icetech]

The 10 lbs oil pressure and flickering oil inspires no confidence over here.. I'd be checking the oil for shimmer and throwing a new HV pump at it. If not too late

eck.. i didn't see the PSI part in the post... yeah that's bad... sorry i need to stop posting.

 

[steve340]

I would investigate the fuel pump and pushrod as suggested in post #22.
f that does not solve the issue if it were mine I would pull the motor.
Better to get in there before it blows up in some way. Definitely cheaper.

 

[pooner]

I had a knock similar to that. I suspected a rod or wrist pin but it ended up being the fuel pump. The spring in the fuel pump arm got weak and it was rattling against the push rod. Get a steth-o-scope and put the probe on the fuel pump at idle. You should be able to tell if it is coming from that.

Update:
Just had some minutes with the car today and played doctor with the scope, i can hear the noise clearest when touching the fuel pump housing so guessing its time for a new one. I also suspect i have weird timing so will check later on, ordered some new cables and dist cap+rotor because the old ones looked toasted.

 

[Sixpactogo]

Update:
Just had some minutes with the car today and played doctor with the scope, i can hear the noise clearest when touching the fuel pump housing so guessing its time for a new one. I also suspect i have weird timing so will check later on, ordered some new cables and dist cap+rotor because the old ones looked toasted.

I hope that is the problem and a new pump solves it. I found mine by accident. I thought my engine had deeper problems so swapped in a new rebuilt engine. I had intentions of tearing it down, but my truck fuel pump failed so I pulled the pump off of that engine and put it on my truck.
There was that same noise. I recognized it immediately.

 

[pooner]

I hope that is the problem and a new pump solves it. I found mine by accident. I thought my engine had deeper problems so swapped in a new rebuilt engine. I had intentions of tearing it down, but my truck fuel pump failed so I pulled the pump off of that engine and put it on my truck.
There was that same noise. I recognized it immediately.

Yepp hope so too, ordered a new one, Spectra pump, hope they are good. Will do some timing checks also.

 

[Sixpactogo]

Yepp hope so too, ordered a new one, Spectra pump, hope they are good. Will do some timing checks also.

You will be able to tell right away when you remove the old pump and push the arm down.

 

[pooner]

Not likely.....with low idle oil pressure, it's likely that a rod bearing (and possibly a main bearing) is failing, limiting oil availability for the corresponding rod bearing. Use FSM clearances for bearing clearances. A collapse lifter has a sharp metallic clicking sound when operating. Pull both right and left valve covers and observe rocker arm operation. OK, do the easy, unrelated stuff first...from exhaust leaks to torque settings of the RR tire valve cap, to the oil pump drive etc......you are going have to remove the oil pan (or pull the engine) and check bearing clearances, one throw at a time, b4 the failing bearing damages the crank......this will not be an easy fix or an inexpensive fix.......just my opinion.......
BOB RENTON

Hi, yeah what is FSM? This my first Mopar, i am a Ford guy otherwise what color plastigauge should i get? I guess the easiest while pan is off is to pull the main bearings and replace them while engine in car?

yup... only need to check 1.. if it is making that noise they are all 4 loose.. and if 1 is loose they all are.. have seen guys freak out thinking it's a knock and it's just TC bolts... and the way that sounds how it's more like a Crisp knock (hard to explain) i am betting it's those 4 bolts.. and yeah can do it in the driveway

Tested today, couldnt get one bolt to move in the tightening direction, its only 7/16 heads so i was afraid of using to much force. Will check maybe the main bolts flexplate - crankshaft, wouldnit suffice to just wiggle the engine back and forth and listen if there is any knock noise?

I would guess that is a main bearing or a conrod bearing issue after watching your video.

It may be so, but ive had engines before with that problem and, what i can recall, the noise was way worse when revving and also more diesel like. This sounds not as "metalic" irl.

I had a knock similar to that. I suspected a rod or wrist pin but it ended up being the fuel pump. The spring in the fuel pump arm got weak and it was rattling against the push rod. Get a steth-o-scope and put the probe on the fuel pump at idle. You should be able to tell if it is coming from that.

Put on new pump, new ignition wires, dist cap and rotor. No change..

I think that i may have a timing issue, engine doesnt run as sweet and calm as a v8 should, i also have some vibrations coming thru to the cabin when revving like 1500-2500rpm. Sometimes i Wonder if its only 7 cans working when going slow and maybe 8 when flooring it.
Will do a zero on the engine and see if the distributor is at cyl 1 on tdc.

I Feel its hard to tell just 7cans working when not doing any dragracibg

Sorry for the spelling since im Swede and today is celebrating end of high school for friends kids so have had some cans...

//Pontus

 

[Sixpactogo]

Sorry..........I thought when you said it was loudest with the probe on the fuel pump, it would be there but guess not. Noise does travel so I have no help for you.

 

[pooner]

Sorry..........I thought when you said it was loudest with the probe on the fuel pump, it would be there but guess not. Noise does travel so I have no help for you.

Yes it is most audible on the pump casing, so the idea is right, but, maybe something else there close by thata slamming, maybe timing chain trnsioner or so?

 

[Fran Blacker]

Did you remove fuel pump push rod and measure it? 3.20"s 81.28 mm long. Low oil not to good.

 

[pooner]

Did you remove fuel pump push rod and measure it? 3.20"s 81.28 mm long. Low oil not to good.

Yepp, it measured 3.222"

 

[steve340]

FSM is factory service manual. Available at Mymopar.
No timing chain tensioner.

 

[RJRENTON]

Hi, yeah what is FSM? This my first Mopar, i am a Ford guy otherwise what color plastigauge should i get? I guess the easiest while pan is off is to pull the main bearings and replace them while engine in car?

Tested today, couldnt get one bolt to move in the tightening direction, its only 7/16 heads so i was afraid of using to much force. Will check maybe the main bolts flexplate - crankshaft, wouldnit suffice to just wiggle the engine back and forth and listen if there is any knock noise?

It may be so, but ive had engines before with that problem and, what i can recall, the noise was way worse when revving and also more diesel like. This sounds not as "metalic" irl.


Put on new pump, new ignition wires, dist cap and rotor. No change..

I think that i may have a timing issue, engine doesnt run as sweet and calm as a v8 should, i also have some vibrations coming thru to the cabin when revving like 1500-2500rpm. Sometimes i Wonder if its only 7 cans working when going slow and maybe 8 when flooring it.
Will do a zero on the engine and see if the distributor is at cyl 1 on tdc.

I Feel its hard to tell just 7cans working when not doing any dragracibg

Sorry for the spelling since im Swede and today is celebrating end of high school for friends kids so have had some cans...

//Pontus

The best way to measure bearing clearance is: with OD micrometer, measure crank journal and rod bearing journal diameter. To measure main bearing clearance, use snap gauge for the ID of the journal with bearing cap installed with bearing insert installed, torqued to specs. The bearing clearances is the difference between the O.D AND I.D. of the journal, either the rod journal or main journal. PLASTIC GAUGE IS OK BUT NOT REAL ACCURATE, too easy for it to be distorted ......just my opinion.......
BOB RENTON