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Overcharged?

RM23M9A

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Curious, anyone ever by accident leave a "Trickle Charger" connected for say 2 days? With the BATTERY CABLES Connected too?
(Oooopsie)
I can tell ya why NOT to-

Thanks in advance!
 
Curious, anyone ever by accident leave a "Trickle Charger" connected for say 2 days? With the BATTERY CABLES Connected too?
(Oooopsie)
I can tell ya why NOT to-

Thanks in advance!
2 amp trickle? Won't hurt a thing.
 
How many amps on trickle does the charger put out
 
I kept a trickle charger all winter not only on my lawn tractor but also on my 64 Fury. It’s not the volts that can hurt you but the amps.
 
I've had batteries, yrs ago, overcharge and die using "trickle charger" for long periods of time but not overnight. As for a "smart charger", leave on my boat all winter, no problems.
 
Battery charging creates hydrogen gas. Very explosive. Battery should( for safety) always be charged outside of the engine compartment, well ventilated and away from things that won't be damaged by battery acid.
Use rubber gloves and s face shield minimum when handling. You can do this a ( I know " a hundred times without safety equipment" but it only takes one time for a battery to have an internal short or similar and blow up in your face.
I have had it happen on a battery with a loose post. Also ears ring for a long time. Sounds like a gun going off with no ear plugs.
Fortunately I at least had safety goggles on and now use the proper attire.
 
220px-Hindenburg_disaster%2C_1937.jpg
 
I've done it for months at a time without issue. What happened?
If left on with the cables attatched from car,.once batt is charged ot continues to supply +Voltage throughout the wiring harnesses into the dash. Eventually "COULD" cause melting overheating of connections and adjacent wiring. There's no other explanation. Unless my Voltage regulator was Faulty?
Havent been able to get "Specs" on good vs bad regulator from anyone yet. Ive found that a BAD regulator will show "O.L" or open lead when resistance tested. Mine tested at 9 Ohms.. Im hearing an acceptable reading is near 1.5 Ohms... Had not had one problem with the ALL NEW OEM wiring for 2 years prior to this case.
20220323_010445.jpg
20220323_010456.jpg
 
Voltage reg not powered unless key was on.
 
If left on with the cables attatched from car,.once batt is charged ot continues to supply +Voltage throughout the wiring harnesses into the dash. Eventually "COULD" cause melting overheating of connections and adjacent wiring. There's no other explanation. Unless my Voltage regulator was Faulty?
Havent been able to get "Specs" on good vs bad regulator from anyone yet. Ive found that a BAD regulator will show "O.L" or open lead when resistance tested. Mine tested at 9 Ohms.. Im hearing an acceptable reading is near 1.5 Ohms... Had not had one problem with the ALL NEW OEM wiring for 2 years prior to this case.
Am I to understand you believe a trickle charger left connected with the car’s battery cables left in place caused the pictured changing system bulkhead Packard terminals to heat and melt the plastic while the vehicle was off? Mass of copper in the dash? Definitely not.
Voltage regulator? No to that as well.

Charging system bulkhead terminals have been melting since these cars were new, way under current rated for that use. Weakest link in the original design, always has been.
 
Am I to understand you believe a trickle charger left connected with the car’s battery cables left in place caused the pictured changing system bulkhead Packard terminals to heat and melt the plastic while the vehicle was off? Mass of copper in the dash? Definitely not.
Voltage regulator? No to that as well.

Charging system bulkhead terminals have been melting since these cars were new, way under current rated for that use. Weakest link in the original design, always has been.
And it's always the power wire going to the ammeter.
 
Curious, anyone ever by accident leave a "Trickle Charger" connected for say 2 days? With the BATTERY CABLES Connected too?
(Oooopsie)
I can tell ya why NOT to-

Thanks in advance!
I should have asked you what brand of trickle charger you have. Most/all now days will taper off and shut down when the battery is charged. Most of the new trickle chargers I see now days are also advertised as maintainers. They are designed to be hooked to the battery and left on. My older Schumacher tapers off and will kick back on as needed. It is a 50/10/2a charger.
 
I should have asked you what brand of trickle charger you have. Most/all now days will taper off and shut down when the battery is charged. Most of the new trickle chargers I see now days are also advertised as maintainers. They are designed to be hooked to the battery and left on. My older Schumacher tapers off and will kick back on as needed. It is a 50/10/2a charger.
Yep thats what mine is. Schumacher.. I measured with a DVOM once when it had been running nearly all day, The Batt+ and - posts with charger ON were showing 15 volts! And surely it was almost done?

Thanks man!!
 
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Am I to understand you believe a trickle charger left connected with the car’s battery cables left in place caused the pictured changing system bulkhead Packard terminals to heat and melt the plastic while the vehicle was off? Mass of copper in the dash? Definitely not.
Voltage regulator? No to that as well.

Charging system bulkhead terminals have been melting since these cars were new, way under current rated for that use. Weakest link in the original design, always has been.

So, me being a "Purist", what can be done to eliminate this from the future? I also wondered "Surely an UNDERPOWERED alternator could have also caused more draw upon say, a 60 amp alternator if conditions were right just once"? Maybe a 70/100 amp I need? I dont have anything on this car that wasnt factory.

Thanks!!!
 
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