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Biomedtechguy 572 Bill Mitchell aluminum RB block build thread and other stuff...

Is it mini tubbed with the springs moved inboard?
Not yet, but as I posted I plan on it, using the AMD tubs that they came out with relatively recently.
I have those 3 Roadrunner pix saved for years now because I LOVE the way "dat ***" looks!
The bottom one looks to be the Hoosier Pro Street series tire. They make huge sizes with great water evacuation grooves, but I believe they are a harder compound tire and won't get the same traction a drag radial or the bias-ply Mickey Thompson Sportsman pictured on the other two.
So another factor in the "wheel and tire" equation is appearance, along with function that we have been discussing. Certainly I need enough room for whatever effective track tire works, and whatever street tire sheds water well enough to allow me to carefully drive on should I encounter unplanned or unavoidable rain or wet roads.
I am a major advocate for really wide tires especially on a B-Body Mopar, they look so fine, and in my case enhance the "pro street/boulevard bruiser" theme. IF that extra width buys me some water evacuation capabilities and traction, that's a double bonus on top of a "look" I am crazy for.
OTOH, I may find that the ideal race track specific wheels and tires may not have to be "all that wide" especially if I use a bias ply drag slick, so that may delay the wheelwell body work, as my current tires are fairly wide, decent looking, but in no way do I think they'll remotely handle the grunt of the 572.
 
Biomed, punch in Big Bad Plymouth youtube. (Sorry not good with links)
I think you'll like it. My buddy bought that car after the guy in the video owned it.

:thumbsup:
 
Traction first depends on the style of tire and track prep. Each is different. Many cars (F.A.S.T., 275 drag radial, Factory Super Car) can lay down some very quick 60 ft. But seldom do they they do it consistently. A lot of things go into it. Just good shocks and tires alone won't get you there. Suspension travel, instant center locations, free movement of suspension components, weight distribution, chassis stiffness, power management, tire pressure, gear ratio, Clutch slip/converter all play into it. If it was cheap and easy anyone could do it.
Doug
 
Just good shocks and tires alone won't get you there. Suspension travel, instant center locations, free movement of suspension components, weight distribution, chassis stiffness, power management, tire pressure, gear ratio, Clutch slip/converter all play into it.
Part(s)/System from your list:
In each instance, I did my best from what I could find..
Every thing may have had some forum(s) input as well.
Shocks
Viking double adjustable front, triple adjustable rear shocks per their tech advice and other input.
Tires: I'm tempted to try the same drag radials I've been driving on, but in the one 17" size larger, from the current 315/35 to the 345/40, on my current Year One aluminum Rallye wheels and if they bulge too much from the 9" wheel width, I will see who I can return them for an exchange. I got the 315/35s online about 4 years ago and they (Tire Rack??) had a fair return policy. Or I may make other plans, don't know yet...
Suspension travel...
All QA1 front suspension including the K-member except for the UCAs which are APC. I have the QA1 front sway bar installed. Should I try it like that or plan on definitely disconnecting the sway bar for the track? I believe my Calvert split mono leaf springs and sliders will allow the kind of rear travel I want. I will mention I have the AR Engineering reinforcement front spring hanger mount plates.
Weight distribution.
I am using an aluminum block. That's good for a couple hundred pounds off the front.
Chassis stiffness.
I have USCT front and rear torque boxes and subframe connectors welded in. I'm sure I'm going to need a roll cage, and I'd like to use chromoly steel. I have no idea how much that costs, regardless of what it's made of. I would like to use the Mity Mounts I have on it now with a Schumacher style torque "strap". I also have a pair of the Schumacher motor mounts. I'd rather not have an engine plate. I would consider a USCT radiator cradle support, and I've seen the firewall braced against the front frame rails. I don't know how much of that is neccessary vs "better".
Power management.
Right now I have the HitMaster and I'm going to use the Progression Ignition system. I'd like a "2 step" to control RPMs with the clutch disengaged at the launch. IF I add nitrous, I'll need more "stuff".
Gear ratio is 4.10, up from 3.56. I did that when the Passon 5 speed went in, and it's been great.
So lots to learn, and I don't know when I'll be able to do the roll cage and related stuff, but I know it's coming. Thanks again!
 
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I know you're considering different wheels to accommodate the larger tires, but if you're not aware, (you do seem pretty informed though), Weldcraft Wheels can widen aluminum wheels for you.
If you find the wheel, and front spacing that fits, they can add how ever much you have room for on the backside.
Just a thought.
https://weldcraftwheels.com
Weldcraft Wheels
 
I know you're considering different wheels to accommodate the larger tires, but if you're not aware, (you do seem pretty informed though), Weldcraft Wheels can widen aluminum wheels for you.
If you find the wheel, and front spacing that fits, they can add how ever much you have room for on the backside.
Just a thought.
https://weldcraftwheels.com
Weldcraft Wheels
THAT is EXACTLY the kind of service I was looking for!
I have really taken to the Rallye wheel look, and I have only sporadically looked for a widening service.
Thanks!:thankyou::luvplace::thumbsup:
 
I've been pondering the street tire issue, and I thought maybe a clue can be found in the 3 pictures I've saved to show what BIG FATTIES look like on a Roadrunner. It turns out ALL 3 have heavily treaded tires on them! Check it out, maybe the tread will give y'all an idea of what tires they are?
View attachment 1302802View attachment 1302803View attachment 1302804
Fatties :thumbsup:

I had M/T DOT SuperSportsman Tires 18x31.5x15,
screwed to the rims & like 20 psi IIRC
on one of my brand x cars (67 Camaro)
softer compound bias-ply tires, lots of softer sidewall, not the best handling
but decent traction (real zig-zag like treads), not too bad in light rain,
800+ hp before N2O, played havoc on traction
this was considerably before Drag Radials were readily available
when I was doing the Super Chevy Sunday Fastest Street Cars In America series
ran in the 8's on them, 468cid BBC Iron Rect. port LS7 gen IV on 350 plate shot
& Powerglide, 9" rear & dbl adj. Alston ladders
black-tracking the whole way
nothing like a real slick
(car dipped into the 7's on N2O on real slicks, same combo on Bias-Ply 14x32 Goodyears)
but certainly streetable
we had to do a 20-mile loop/cruise & then race,
it was real street stuff

Drag Radial tech is far superior today

I'm amazed/impressed at what some guys do on a 275 DR

not mine just liked the look, big fatties & LA rake stance
reminiscent of my youth, when Pro-Street & tubbed cars, were all the rage
68 Roadrunner pro-street.jpg


I like the old 80's to late 90's Pro-steet look
the fatties on the back make the front end push some
not the best handling but not meant to be either

said Camaro at Sacramento Raceway after CarCraft show & go
1st time 'on a treaded street tires' in the 8's on juice
Budnicks 67 Camaro 8.98 @ Sacramento early 1980's (brightened up a tad).png


you've already heard about my stuff with the old silver 68 RR, (sorry no photos)
with some old M/T 315/55 (or 60 ?) DOT Drag Radials,
plenty of sidewall for a nice plant
ran about 14psi at the track, Calvert Caltracs, a couple flats of preload
dbl adj. 'Lambs' front & rear
3.5" of front end limited travel
(not 5" like they said it needed, car would hit/shock/unload
sort of like roll over the wrinkles & shake, the tires too much
)
went best of 9.77 N/A @ 135, 9.90 to 10.0's @ 130+ all day long
& best of 8.58 @ 156 on 350 shot N2O, hitting it 100% about 80-100ft out
on them (M/Ts) in July 100* heat at Sac. Raceway T&T, 2007
sort of scary/sketchy in the rain, the tread was nearly nonexistent by then too
but I only lived like 12 miles from the track back then
but not too shabby at the track for a drag radial
never ran that car on a 'real slick', 12,000+ miles, it was a real street-beast...
 
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Follow a guy in a 63 Dodge years ago had around 16" wide tires. It looked like a handful to drive it was bouncing around this was a back road. Wonder if they were fueller slicks recapped?
 
not mine just liked the look, big fatties & LA rake stance
reminiscent of my youth, when Pro-Street & tubbed cars, were all the rage
PIC LIFTED and added to my "Roadrunner BIG FATTIES" album.
:thumbsup::thankyou:
ANY B-Body, my preference 70 and older, exception being I'll add in the 71+ Charger, which like the 71+Satellite/RR/GTX must have wide tires to look at least "ok".
I saw a 67 Coronet R/T with STEAMROLLER looking rear tires. With that Coke bottle shape, rear wide tires in the hips.
WHOO! HOO!
 
PIC LIFTED and added to my "Roadrunner BIG FATTIES" album.
:thumbsup::thankyou:
ANY B-Body, my preference 70 and older, exception being I'll add in the 71+ Charger, which like the 71+Satellite/RR/GTX must have wide tires to look at least "ok".
I saw a 67 Coronet R/T with STEAMROLLER looking rear tires. With that Coke bottle shape, rear wide tires in the hips.
WHOO! HOO!

72 Charger Blown Hemi Magnumforce Racing.jpg


can't see the back well, trust me it has meats,

old car 72 Charger Blown, Ron Jenkin's owner Magnum Force racing


:lol: baby got back (a tad bigger than my preference)

Car Babe Now tell US the Earth is flat - nice tight map.jpg
 
Thanks @Budnicks
I'm looking up a 71 R/T Charger I saw at Cruisin the Coast. @Wookie316 would appreciate it, and y'all know by now my 1st Mopar was a 71 R/T Charger.
Here is the one at CtC:

20201006_145441.jpg


20201006_145424.jpg


20201006_145350.jpg


20201006_145342.jpg
 
I would like to use the Mity Mounts I have on it now with a Schumacher style torque "strap". I also have a pair of the Schumacher motor mounts. I'd rather not have an engine plate. I would consider a USCT radiator cradle support, and I've seen the firewall braced against the front frame rails. I don't know how much of that is neccessary vs "better".
Hey guys, I know my posts get to be a "wall of text" sometimes, but any experience with NOT using a motor plate? I'd rather not. See quoted post and thanks for any replies!
 
Bio, quick question on your pistons - what's the anticipated lead-time from Diamond? I've been waiting about 9 weeks so far for some custom forged pistons from JE, they keep telling my engine builder they are "in the system". It's very frustrating having the car off the road.
 
Have you considered an M&H drag radial? I'm attempting a higher power street build, and I'm looking for very similar requirements you're looking for. I figured if I got caught in the rain, they still have some tread pattern.

I plan on building mine around a 390/45/15, but they have a 390/40/17 available if you prefer a 17" wheel? Just another option.

I have some old and bald 325/50/15 drag radials I've driven in the rain many times. When they had some tread, I wouldn't trust them on higher-speed corners, but behaved at up to 55 MPH in a straight line in a heavy downpour. That's all I was willing to attempt with my tiny wipers and limited visibility!
These are the tires i'm running on my 64" Polara. I haven't been caught in the rain with them yet but i will say that so far they have been great on the street.
 
These are the tires i'm running on my 64" Polara. I haven't been caught in the rain with them yet but i will say that so far they have been great on the street.
That's good news to hear, have you had track time with these radials? I don't know anyone else using them, I'm very curious how they perform!
 
That's good news to hear, have you had track time with these radials? I don't know anyone else using them, I'm very curious how they perform!
I have not had them to the track yet so I can't say how well they will hook but they seem to feel pretty good on the street. Truth is that there are not many tires available ( 14"-15" section width) that will take full advanage of the extra room found when you mini- tub a early B body.
 
I looked at them (M&H) and I like what I see. Given the issues with parts availability for my engine build, I may get the AMD tubs and associated work done before my build is complete.
Thanks for all the replies!
 
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