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Yankee Express RestoMod Project

Ut oh, you got color and wheels on the car Randy - you know what that means?
Time for hyperdrive! Go Randy Go!! :thumbsup:
 
If you sand out imperfections and put on another coat of paint anyway you could rent a spray booth? Do paint and clear same day if possible? To pricey? Maybe build an temporary stick extension on to front of garage? Make it a little wider to make it easier to work. Floor heavy plastic sheet for floor just before spraying. A lot of work and weather issues, don't need a windy storm blowing it down.
 
Got the polished alternator in the mail....put that on. Hung the exhaust manifolds up temp like to figure out the wires to dizzy cap.

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Is there any sense in wire brushing those manifolds down and painting them? Wont it just burn off anyway?
 
There’s VHT High Temp header paint, good for 2000 degrees. It’s a spray bomb. If you have access to a media blaster, do that then clean off with acetone and spray them. They will dry but won’t be cured until it gets some heat. I love that stuff. I use it on my CTD exhaust, not a single complaint.
 
Sure you can, but will it work?
:lol:

I wire wheeled mine, cleaned them up, sanded them, spent a lot of time getting them perfect. I followed VHTs instructions, heat treated them in the oven exactly how I was suppose to. They were beautiful….were being the key part

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I have my NOX, DPF filters along with the exhaust sprayed with it. Been that way for 3 years. Also did the manifolds on my 383 in my Dart, again, no complaints.
 
Just don't bake them in the kitchen in YOUR house.....I did that with my brake drums years ago, and my Mrs hit the roof.
Smelled like a 747 had just re-fuelled for about a week. :lol:
I see that you got your Yankee Express fix last night...lol. thanks.
 
Trying to do the little stuff now so that I don't end up trying to do it while bending over the fender, and under the hood edge. Back cannot take that for long. lol.
SO I'm working on routing/ corralling the coil wire and #8 plug wire while also incorporating the custom coil mount at the back of the passenger side head. Needed to make a tool to get the manifold bolt loose and a spacer out of nylon to make the coil mounting plate stand off from the plug wire loom clamp in order for the coil clamp bolts to clear the plug wire clamp. lol. Interesting little job. I also took the steering reservoir loose and adjusted the spacer widths to align the pulley with the crank pulley. Another interesting little job that would have been harder in the car.

In the last photo what does the rubber vacuum line go to from there on the carb side & what goes into the brass tube sticking out just to the left of the choke body?

Thanks guys!

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I’m not familiar with Holley carbs, but I think the rubber line is for your vacuum advance (brace yourself for the ported vs manifold debate comments lol.)
 
I’m not familiar with Holley carbs, but I think the rubber line is for your vacuum advance (brace yourself for the ported vs manifold debate comments lol.)
There's one for that sticking out at the center front of the carb......plus this one is sticking out from the fuel bowl base....
 
There's one for that sticking out at the center front of the carb......plus this one is sticking out from the fuel bowl base....
Well shows what I know about Holleys. I’ve only worked on Carter/Edelbrocks.

Could it be a pressure regulator? Or is it a vacuum secondary and have something to do with that?
 
What model carb is that?
R3310-3 Holley
4160
750 -CFM

A 3310 is a good street carb. Mines is a 3310-3. The number after the dash is the 'version' number... so a 3310-3 for example, would be the 3rd revision or redesign for the 3310 model.

The 3310-2 through 6 are 4160 style, because they use a metering plate for the secondaries (non-removeable jets) Vacuum Secondaries.

The 3310 is a vacuum secondary carb though, not a double pumper, so it has only one accelerator pump, which is on the front, on the bottom of the fuel bowl. It also will not have any linkage to the secondaries, because they open when a certain amount of air is flowing through the primaries automatically. They are not mechanically yanked open like a double pumper. They are opened by the pressure of yer foot on the loud pedal. So, yes, that vacuum outlet is for the secondaries. Where does it go TO is what I need to know.

Watched this and learned that it DOES go the vac advance from the dizzy.
 
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R3310-3 Holley
4160
750 -CFM
Ah, ok.
Both those hose outlets (small and bigger one) are direct ("full") vacuum sources.
As you know, the ported vacuum hose port for "timed" vacuum for connection to the distributor
vacuum advance is that one up on the side of the metering block.
This gospel courtesy of the manufacturer themselves!
(Holley 3310 installation instructions):
https://documents.holley.com/199r9934-3rev4.pdf
 
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