• When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.

71 Charger SE build

How does this trim piece around the window come off? It doesn't appear to have any attachments inside the car.

View attachment 1317377
Screws under the cat wiskers. In the pic of a rear one you can see the 3 holes. The door piece is the same but also has a nut on the rear and a special flat screw on the very front part.

IMG_2443.jpg
 
Huh. I believe I pulled those screws last night when I was looking at it. I thought they were holding on the weatherstrip, but the weatherstrip has clips holding it on too. I tried pulling the weatherstrip off but it's stuck on good. Any trick to getting the weatherstrip off?

How about the body plugs in the door - can they be removed without destroying them?

30_door_body_plugs.JPG
 
You kinda have to bend the weather strip towards you and lift up on the rears. Clips slip down into a slot and the stainless piece screws are separate from the weather strip. There are screws on top of screws.

The plugs in your pic are Zebart plugs so it was rustproofed back in the day. The only factory one is the large one below the window slot. I would pull those plugs and weld up the holes but not sure how far you plan on taking this project.
 
I wish I could weld . . . I had the Zeibart sprayed 30 years ago. I've got the interior panels out and have been rust proofing everywhere I can reach. The Ziebart doesn't look like it was sprayed in through those holes. Not saying you're wrong, but when I was looking at it, the spray pattern wasn't what I was expecting.

On further research, it appears the Ziebart often only makes it to a small area around the hole itself due to misapplication - perhaps what I've been looking at is factory, and I've got all these holes for no good reason at all.

I'll pop one of those plugs, measure the hole, and see if I can find replacement body plugs.
 
Finished the air cleaner and got it installed to replace the 70 I have been running. Had to do a little body work, glass bead, and etch prime. Then 2 nice heavy wet coats of VHT wrinkle paint.

IMG_2340.jpg
IMG_2345.jpg
IMG_2348.jpg
IMG_2445.jpg
IMG_2446.jpg
 
Finished the air cleaner and got it installed to replace the 70 I have been running. Had to do a little body work, glass bead, and etch prime. Then 2 nice heavy wet coats of VHT wrinkle paint.

View attachment 1317920View attachment 1317921View attachment 1317922View attachment 1317923View attachment 1317924
Wow, looks great! I did a valve cover with the wrinkle finish and I found sitting it on one of those electric oil space heaters and it in turn heated the aluminum valve cover which made the wrinkle very dramatic. Worked like a charm.
 
Wow, looks great! I did a valve cover with the wrinkle finish and I found sitting it on one of those electric oil space heaters and it in turn heated the aluminum valve cover which made the wrinkle very dramatic. Worked like a charm.
South Carolina sun is all we need here. Any thing black outside gets HOT super quick!
 
It certainly is lovely. What is the reason for only having two little openings for air, instead of being open all the way around? I see there are some hoses going to those intakes too, what do they do? I haven't seen one of these since I put a 4 barrel carb on mine in the early 90's.
 
It certainly is lovely. What is the reason for only having two little openings for air, instead of being open all the way around? I see there are some hoses going to those intakes too, what do they do? I haven't seen one of these since I put a 4 barrel carb on mine in the early 90's.
Open all the way around will provide more air flow but the factory setup works well and I am trying to keep it kinda factory.
 
The factory look is good too, I'm just wondering why the factory did it that way? It has to be more expensive.
 
The factory look is good too, I'm just wondering why the factory did it that way? It has to be more expensive.
Cold starts and lower noise was the main 2 reasons. On a cold start the temp sensor allows vacuum from the carb to close flaps in the snorkels, thus opening the inlet going down to the heat stove on the exhaust manifold. This aids in faster warmup in cold weather.
 
Cold starts and lower noise was the main 2 reasons. On a cold start the temp sensor allows vacuum from the carb to close flaps in the snorkels, thus opening the inlet going down to the heat stove on the exhaust manifold. This aids in faster warmup in cold weather.
Emissions
 
Got off work a little early today so I pulled the battery and dressed it up.

IMG_2462.jpg
IMG_2463.jpg
 
Yes, Weskco I think is the seller out of France. On my phone so not sure of the seller name.
I think you are correct, I remember seeing they were from France, just like the Coneheads. lol. I may do one of those for my mopars. They look really authentic.
 
Wow, man I just spent the last hour going over your whole build. You’ve done an absolutely amazing job! I also have a 71 N-code on Brite White with the saddle brown interior. Power everything, cruise, and factory cassette… 59K original miles, numbers matching and all that. Like you, keeping it *sorta original. My 383 will be getting a 440 source stroker kit this winter. Just rebuilt the rear diff and brakes last weekend!

1A0E9491-74EF-49CC-A7C6-531DDCF45FE4.jpeg


B0E16455-7419-4FB4-993E-D46D153BE960.jpeg


DCCB660B-404D-491E-AD5C-4F6BE009E6D3.jpeg
 
Very nice car! Love the 71s as there are so many combinations and options available. Great driving too!
 
Auto Transport Service
Back
Top