71 Charger SE build

[T2R9]

Quarter glass time. My old one were scratched beyond fixing. The stainless was trashed. New glass from Auto city Classics was a perfect match, both curvature and cut. 2nd and third pic has the original on top of the new. Even the green tint is right. Can see the trashed glass in the first pic. Disassembled it all and polished stainless from a parts car. New setting tape and rubber seals from DMT and they are ready to go in!

 

[Nxcoupe]

Quarter glass time. My old one were scratched beyond fixing. The stainless was trashed. New glass from Auto city Classics was a perfect match, both curvature and cut. 2nd and third pic has the original on top of the new. Even the green tint is right. Can see the trashed glass in the first pic. Disassembled it all and polished stainless from a parts car. New setting tape and rubber seals from DMT and they are ready to go in!


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Looks spectacular! Wish I had the patience to polish stainless and aluminum.

 

[Nxcoupe]

Wow, man I just spent the last hour going over your whole build. You’ve done an absolutely amazing job! I also have a 71 N-code on Brite White with the saddle brown interior. Power everything, cruise, and factory cassette… 59K original miles, numbers matching and all that. Like you, keeping it *sorta original. My 383 will be getting a 440 source stroker kit this winter. Just rebuilt the rear diff and brakes last weekend!

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If you ever want to sell this, get with me.

 

[T2R9]

Looks spectacular! Wish I had the patience to polish stainless and aluminum.

PITA and the biggest thing that slows me down. But damn I can't open that drivers door and see scratches on that pillar!

 

[JR_Charger]

How does the trim around the rear window come off? And the drip rail trim?

I regret hearing that polishing aluminum trim is a hard as I will have to tackle that job eventually. Mine isn't too bad though.

 

[T2R9]

Its attached to the glass with glass setting tape and has two rivets holding it to the carrier. The weather strip has a single screw on the bottom and it slides up and off.

Drip rail trim just snaps onto the drip rail. Lifting slowly along the bottom to remove. I have one of these that works well for this.

 

[chargervert]

Ah yes, an attitude adjustment tool, everyone should have one!

 

[JR_Charger]

Its attached to the glass with glass setting tape and has two rivets holding it to the carrier. The weather strip has a single screw on the bottom and it slides up and off.

Do you mean the rear side window or the rear window? I was referring to the rear window.

Drip rail trim just snaps onto the drip rail. Lifting slowly along the bottom to remove. I have one of these that works well for this.

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What is that tool called?

 

[T2R9]

Do you mean the rear side window or the rear window? I was referring to the rear window.



What is that tool called?

On the rear glass use a tool like below to pull back the clips under the trim. You slide it under and run it along the edge till it hits a clip then work the point under and rotate to pop the clip off the trim. PITA and have to be careful not to scratch the glass. I tape it along the trim first.

I have always just called it a prybar/alignment tool. Mine is a Craftsman 42892

 

[T2R9]

Quarter glass is done and in. PITA. Pre-assembled, lubed, and was really careful not to scratch anything! Still impressed at how well this Auto City Classic glass fits. Doors next. Those will be fun!

 

[T2R9]

All day just on the drivers door glass. And I thought the rears were a PITA. Fronts beat that by a large margin. She is close, I will save the fianl adjustments once the cat whiskers are in. Ignore the finger prints, grease was everywhere!

 

[JR_Charger]

I've heard that's a tough job. I would hesitate to switch to Rallye doors because I don't want to fiddle with the glass.

 

[JR_Charger]

What is this tool?

 

[Nxcoupe]

What is this tool?

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Windshield molding clip tool

 

[JR_Charger]

Sorry for hijacking your thread T2R9 - I've got my rear trim out (why can't the trim removal tool have a rubberized coating on the handle? I'm going to have to fix that!). Many of the clips were rusted and some broke. A few are wobbly now. What does it take to replace the clips? I'm hoping the window doesn't have to come out but I'm guessing that's what it's going to be.

I also noticed a couple of rubber blocks beneath the bottom trim. One of mine is falling apart. What are those things, and what does it take to replace them?

 

[Runcharger]

The rubber blocks are put in there when installing the glass, they space it up so it comes to rest in the middle of the opening.
Usually if the trim clips are rusted it is a sign that you should check the entire window channel for rust holes as well. I can't remember on the 71's but I think the glass has to come out if the clips are retained by screws. Check to see if they install on posts or are retained by screws.

SE is looking great BTW!

 

[JR_Charger]

Can't find anything but light surface rust, and the clips are held on by clips. I lucked out this time.

 

[T2R9]

Clips just push on. Your will find little welded studs that they snap onto. Runcharger is right, while the trim is off I would check for rust.

 

[T2R9]

Spent the day screwing with the drivers glass. Got it adjusted and aligned with the quarter glass and I am satisfied for now. Got my first scratch in the paint. At least it's in the door jam. Will bug me every time I open that door. Oh well.

 

[Nxcoupe]

Spent the day screwing with the drivers glass. Got it adjusted and aligned with the quarter glass and I am satisfied for now. Got my first scratch in the paint. At least it's in the door jam. Will bug me every time I open that door. Oh well.


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We used to call that the new paint curse. Be glad it is there and minor, now your safe!