AMD rear crossmember issues 1968 charger

[TexasRoadRunner68]

I have the rear frame rails braced and have removed the crusty old crossmember. I just mocked up the AMD version, and it doesn’t seem quite right. The flange at the top is noticeably shorter and the bolt holes in the flanges below seem like they are closer to the panel than on the original.

Am I missing something here? The part number shows it being the right part.

Any input from someone who has done this?

 

[gkent]

I just went through that same exercise. For all the claims they make they still crank out inaccurate ****. After cutting out all the spot welds I had to first fill them all back in because the flange on the new piece isn't wide enough to cover them.

And the oblong holes are gonna need trimming too.

Oh, and the flange in the stock piece is also dimpled (for lack of a better term) where it overlaps the tabs on the ends of the frame rails, whereas the new piece is not. This will prevent the new piece from sitting flush up against the floor. You can dimple the new piece or cut the tabs off the frame rails.

 

[440 PHIXX]

Are they making Charger parts again? Last I checked everything was on back order.

 

[gkent]

I wish I'd taken more photos.


Just in case you think "dipping is the be all end all !!!

This is the piece fully installed - including new end pieces which weren't too bad. I was able to reuse the original support brackets after blasting.

Here is one with the welds mostly filled - there are a couple that are a bitch to get at so seam sealer will play a role.

 

[gkent]

I take credit for cutting out the old, filling the holes and making the flange dimples. Then the phone rang and it was the bodyman/painter saying he was ready to take the car. He did the install and did an awesome job.

 

[gkent]

Are they making Charger parts again?

Not "Charger" ... B-body !!!

 

[440 PHIXX]

Not "Charger" ... B-body !!!

I need ‘70 Charger quarter panels.

 

[TexasRoadRunner68]

I take credit for cutting out the old, filling the holes and making the flange dimples. Then the phone rang and it was the bodyman/painter saying he was ready to take the car. He did the install and did an awesome job.

How did you make the flange dimples? It seems like a pain to shape there being that it’s right on the bend.

 

[gkent]

I cut slits the width of the dimples in the flange then flattened those pieces out then rebent them where they needed to be then mig'd the slits and ground them into shape.

 

[TexasRoadRunner68]

I cut slits the width of the dimples in the flange then flattened those pieces out then rebent them where they needed to be then mig'd the slits and ground them into shape.

That’s what I was thinking.

 

[eldubb440]

I wish I'd taken more photos.


Just in case you think "dipping is the be all end all !!!

View attachment 1319483

that was dipped? it doesn't penetrate the seams and overlaps? what good is it?

also, crossmembers I've used come with those plates attached

 

[gkent]

that was dipped? it doesn't penetrate the seams and overlaps?

That's it! If you want the "perfect" way to remove rust, you break every spot weld on the car and strip each piece separately! Keep in mind that cars spend years getting moisture, snow, road salt, etc. thrown at them - they only spend a few hours in the dip tanks!

crossmembers I've used come with those plates attached

Might depend on the vehicle and who the manufacturer is. Mine did not come with the plates, they are listed and sold separately as are the end pieces. Also, the crossmember should be welded to the frame first, then the plates get welded on.

 

[gkent]

what good is it?

Every bit of goop, tar, undercoating, paint, grease, lead, bondo, etc - GONE. Ok, it doesn't get fully into the seams ... neither does any kind of blasting.

 

[mopar4don]

There are NO plates on the ends of the crossmember on a charger

 

[eldubb440]

Every bit of goop, tar, undercoating, paint, grease, lead, bondo, etc - GONE. Ok, it doesn't get fully into the seams ... neither does any kind of blasting.

does it remove rust where it is out in the open?

 

[mopar4don]

I have the rear frame rails braced and have removed the crusty old crossmember. I just mocked up the AMD version, and it doesn’t seem quite right. The flange at the top is noticeably shorter and the bolt holes in the flanges below seem like they are closer to the panel than on the original.

Am I missing something here? The part number shows it being the right part.

Any input from someone who has done this?

View attachment 1319473

View attachment 1319474

View attachment 1319475

So getting back to the original question......
The holes at the bottom of the cross member are clearance holes for the bumperettes.
I don't remember any issues with mine, but then it is not done.

 

[gkent]

We haven’t been discussing the bottom but the holes the op is referring to are where the bumper brackets bolt up into the frame on a b body (not sure about charger) and there is “wiggle room”

 

[gkent]

does it remove rust where it is out in the open?

Well of course !!