Cylinder condition
- Thread starter 340runner
- Start date
340runner
Well-Known Member
Idk what it's worth to be honest, and I do have a person that said he'd do a grand, but he's a month or 2 out for getting money. He said its worth to him 800-1500$ depends on condition. I know the block is worth a lot more to a restorer than it is to me, so if someone wants it and is willing to pay is it not worth it? I never got the whole casting date and HP stamp craze but some do i guess. If could horse trade into a honeable standard bore block I'd rather do that as I already have a rotating assembly with l2295fs from another guy. If I bore over its waiting a lot of time and another 1k for machine work, then I need to drop 500$ on pistons, 150$ on rings, then spend another 500$ for balance and probably another 75$ or so for pressing the pistons
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If he is willing to pay the money, I would say grab it.
340runner
Well-Known Member
That's where I am with the situation
Side note is 1200 high? I honest to god do not know what a 69 hp block is worth. I mean obviously infinite to the right person, but I'm talking realistic numbers
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I'm not a numbers type of guy. Unless it has the my vin stamped on it then to me it's just another 440 block. It's a little harder now a days, but I can still find a complete 440 with all the accessories for 500-700 as a core to rebuild
340runner
Well-Known Member
Yeah, I just can't find those, I dont know if Hawaii is isolated from the rest of the country but I can't find a rebuildable forged crank with decent heads for under at least 1500$, and that's a block that is seized
I think finding parts in Hawaii is alot harder then the mainland USA. I'm not knocking you, if you can get 1k for the a bare block that needs machining. I'd say go for it. Here's one that listed on this site last month
www.forbbodiesonly.com
FOR SALE - 67 440 engine
67 440 Standard bore non HP engine. 915 heads Turns over .Pretty much complete with 4 BBL intake. Looks like valve covers leaked and covered the engine with oil. $500.00. pick up in north central Indiana
www.forbbodiesonly.com
340runner
Well-Known Member
I honestly never even saw his posts before, I dont know how my searches are filtered by the search engine here, so it is a crap shoot as for what I see even if I only search in the want to sell forums. I base my prices and "value" on a lot of the parts and everything on the FB marketplace crapshoot
On another note I picked up a polished 440 forged crank, resized and new rod bolts and bearings, bushed for a floating 1.094 pin ly rods with l2295fs and NOS mopar "premium" ductile iron rings. The rotating assembly's balanced and I got it with a distributor drive shaft and a 1990 MP catalog for 580$. Now i either gotta get new pistons or find just ANOTHER block. Don't know if i over or underpaid for the rotating assembly, but it is what it is, no returning it haha
You are doing things in the worse possible way. Buying parts in a shotgun pattern will cost you more in the end. You start with a block and get the right piston size and go from there.
340runner
Well-Known Member
But then I have to pay twice over on machining costs when I buy everything else piecemeal, no? At least with this i can just get the 30 over piston and they're close on weight instead of having to resize rods and polish the crank and balance. I quoted a couple machine shops, all in on the rotating assembly I was at least 1300$ in on labor
As for the shotgun pattern, yeah, it is inefficient but some day ill find use for it all, still got a lot of life ahead of me, im 17 not 70
Lmk if I'm thinking about this wrong
No you will not pay a machine shop twice. But the way you are going you will pay twice.
As far as being 17 and not 70 tells me you have a lot of time to be stupid. Don't take it in a bad way. The fact is one day when you reflect on the decisions you made you will say boy was I stupid. Why did I not listen.
BSB67
Well-Known Member
Just understand that the odds are against you.
You are looking for a 50 to 60 year old 440 block that you can home-hone for your forged pistons, correct? You sound like you are in a hurry, correct?
Have you asked your matching shop to hone your current block, maybe for a special price. They generally don’t like to do that. But what ever you do, you’ll still need to add about 0.002” to the bore to get the right clearance for the 2295 pistons.
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PsyOps
Well-Known Member
To the OP, you wrote, "I picked up a polished 440 forged crank, resized and new rod bolts and bearings, bushed for a floating 1.094 pin ly rods with l2295fs and NOS mopar "premium" ductile iron rings. The rotating assembly's balanced..." blah, blah, blah, and "Now i either gotta get new pistons or find just ANOTHER block." To pare it down, you can either (1) Sell your existing pistons & rings, have the machine shop measure your existing block, buy new pistons & rings based on their recommendation, have the machine shop bore the block and rebalance the rotating assembly or (2) purchase another bare block and have the machine shop bore it to accept your current rotating assembly? Slap together and low budget do not apply in either scenario.
As far as you being young and stupid/dumb, there probably isn't a member here over 45+ who hasn't at one time looked back at something they did (sold a first car or prized car, purchased parts that didn't work as well as what they had, overpaid for parts they could have had cheaper if they just had some patience, etc.) or wished they had the knowledge they have now back when they were younger to help keep them from making the costly misteps/poor decisions. I am in the old man group. It took having a son and guiding him through his 'teens (where he 'knew better' than any of the adults around him) to understand the older 'been there, done that' guys actually DO know what they're talking about. I realize we're not going to change a 17 yr old's mind that seems to be made up; all we can do is offer the many, many years of experience this FBBO community so kindly and freely shares. Whether you choose to hear us is up to you. Spend your money however you want. Good luck going forward.
As far as you being young and stupid/dumb, there probably isn't a member here over 45+ who hasn't at one time looked back at something they did (sold a first car or prized car, purchased parts that didn't work as well as what they had, overpaid for parts they could have had cheaper if they just had some patience, etc.) or wished they had the knowledge they have now back when they were younger to help keep them from making the costly misteps/poor decisions. I am in the old man group. It took having a son and guiding him through his 'teens (where he 'knew better' than any of the adults around him) to understand the older 'been there, done that' guys actually DO know what they're talking about. I realize we're not going to change a 17 yr old's mind that seems to be made up; all we can do is offer the many, many years of experience this FBBO community so kindly and freely shares. Whether you choose to hear us is up to you. Spend your money however you want. Good luck going forward.
Curiousyellow71
Well-Known Member
Its been mentioned by previous post that there is a tool used to remove the ridge above the top ring. It is a bit of a lost art..most people just go oversize and don't bother.
When you honed what oil or lubricant did you use?
Are the 2295 pistons standard? Are they rings you picked up 1/16"? That is the width of the compression rings of a 2295. Oem was 5/64 in a 69 440hp.
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340runner
Well-Known Member
Yes, they're standard bore 2295s that are floating in the rods instead of pressed, as they can do both i think. I do have the 1/16 rings too Used pb blaster when honed, what i had at the time to do just one cylinder. Kept spraying it as I went with drill. Now that I researched more on it apparently atf is a better lubricant for it.
Now, why do people hate the ridge reamer, and what do you think about what they say for it?
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