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4 speed not able to get in any gear

mac

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lancaster, new york
this just starting happening at the end of last cruise season. four speed manual. can shift gears no problem with car not running. car running not moving can't get it into gear. if car is moving no problem shifting. checked the shifter lever alignment and free play for clutch. have had someone hold clutch pedal down and was able to spin clutch easily by hand. what's next to look at? update to this, i have double checked clutch adjustment and shifter alignment. i even swapped out to an old transmission and the problem still lingers. so is there possibly a problem with the pilot bushing in crank or is the clutch just not acting right? i think i am just too close the the problem if you know what that means. just looking for ideas that could cause this. thanks
 
Sure sounds like a clutch releasing problem. One other item is the bell housing alignment or dowels missing.
 
this just starting happening at the end of last cruise season. four speed manual. can shift gears no problem with car not running. car running not moving can't get it into gear. if car is moving no problem shifting. checked the shifter lever alignment and free play for clutch. have had someone hold clutch pedal down and was able to spin clutch easily by hand. what's next to look at? update to this, i have double checked clutch adjustment and shifter alignment. i even swapped out to an old transmission and the problem still lingers. so is there possibly a problem with the pilot bushing in crank or is the clutch just not acting right? i think i am just too close the the problem if you know what that means. just looking for ideas that could cause this. thanks
Take the inspection cover off and look at the gap between the throw out bearing surface and the pressure plate fingers. If you adjust the gap to about 3/16", cycle the pedal and recheck, the clutch should release perfectly. I ruined a clutch by adjusting it by the pedal free play only.
 
Take the inspection cover off and look at the gap between the throw out bearing surface and the pressure plate fingers. If you adjust the gap to about 3/16", cycle the pedal and recheck, the clutch should release perfectly. I ruined a clutch by adjusting it by the pedal free play only.
i will give that a try.
 
I once had the clutch lever on the cross shaft tear, and gradually move. I could readjust my clutch pedal play, but in a few days' it would tear enough that I had to readjust again.
 
Take the inspection cover off and look at the gap between the throw out bearing surface and the pressure plate fingers. If you adjust the gap to about 3/16", cycle the pedal and recheck, the clutch should release perfectly. I ruined a clutch by adjusting it by the pedal free play only.
Are we sure 3/16" gap between TOB and pp fingers is correct? I'm going through some minor clutch issues too right now and 3/16" seems huge. But maybe that is correct. Just checking....
 
Are we sure 3/16" gap between TOB and pp fingers is correct? I'm going through some minor clutch issues too right now and 3/16" seems huge. But maybe that is correct. Just checking....
That's just a common sense measurement. I don't think there is a specific measurement. I think 1/8" is too close and 1/4 is too much. You want a gap but not too close. The TO bearing on the fork is not precise. There is a lot of play and movement. You don't want the bearing touching the fingers unless you are depressing the pedal.
 
That's just a common sense measurement. I don't think there is a specific measurement. I think 1/8" is too close and 1/4 is too much. You want a gap but not too close. The TO bearing on the fork is not precise. There is a lot of play and movement. You don't want the bearing touching the fingers unless you are depressing the pedal.
Gotcha. Thank you.
 
have had someone hold clutch pedal down and was able to spin clutch easily by hand.........i even swapped out to an old transmission and the problem still lingers.

Assuming you are referring to the disc and input shaft that doesn't sound like a sticking disc or a pilot hanging on the input to me. Then too, @ 700 rpm and heat who knows for sure?
Did you add new grease to the bushing when you swapped the trans? You surely inspected the disc and cover for obvious issues.

Just throwing this out there.
Short of the clutch cover failing somehow at rpm, any sign of the engine side of the FW contacting anything?
Maybe try an out of the box, no cost, "rule it out" check.
Setup a video cam on the harmonic balancer, start the engine in neutral, and work the clutch pedal fully several times (no shifting). Check the video for excessive crank motion fore and aft. May indicate a failing thrust bearing taking up some plate departure.
 
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