If replacing alternator, which amperage?

[Sinitro]

The major advantage of a one-wire alternator is the benefit for the ease of installation. @idle RPM a traditional alternator with external regulator will output comparable amperage to the output of a one-wire alternator. Another downside of a one-wire alternator is that if its internal regulator goes bad the entire one-wire alternator @ higher cost must be replaced compared to the cost of an external regulator. One other consideration is that for the newer one-wire chrome alternators, one must be sure they are grounded well through its chrome plating.

Just my $0.02...

 

[koosh]

Do you even drive it at night? OE has worked for 56 years....

Doesn’t matter if i drive it a night….im looking at replacing and thought a new model with 60-100 amps might work without damages

 

[zyzzyx]

The Denso has a seperate regulator with a diode bridge that's replaceable. In about ten minutes. I'm not
sure you would call it a one-wire unit though. If you read the bottom of the page for the pigtail connector
it explains that the blue wire is the sense wire that goes to a 12v source, the green goes to a switched 12v
ignition source, and if you want one, the red wire goes to an indicator light.

 

[Sinitro]

The Denso has a seperate regulator with a diode bridge that's replaceable. In about ten minutes. I'm not
sure you would call it a one-wire unit though. If you read the bottom of the page for the pigtail connector
it explains that the blue wire is the sense wire that goes to a 12v source, the green goes to a switched 12v
ignition source, and if you want one, the red wire goes to an indicator light.

U are correct...
Some Denso alternators but not all have a plug-in regulator module, however there is a wide variance of different versions.
Besides being difficult to find an exact specific replacement, these plug-in regulator modules can be expensive....
At least for our traditional mopar legacy alternator/regulator systems one can find OE replacements in many auto parts stores...

Just my $0.02...

 

[Don Frelier]

U are correct...
Some Denso alternators but not all have a plug-in regulator module, however there is a wide variance of different versions.
Besides being difficult to find an exact specific replacement, these plug-in regulator modules can be expensive....
At least for our traditional mopar legacy alternator/regulator systems one can find OE replacements in many auto parts stores...

Just my $0.02...

See post#4.
That's my thinking

 

[RJRENTON]

Does-
“

• 100 Plus Amps At Top End/65 Plus Amps At Idle

Sound ok/safe to use?

This would be ok if you planned to do some arc welding.......WHY do you think you need 100 amps plus output???
BOB RENTON

 

[RJRENTON]

How did we ever survive coming home from the drive-in at 3am.. pouring rain and fully in the bag?

Likely the DFL factor applies.......??...
BOB RENTON

 

[zyzzyx]

One last thing to think about is if you draw 75A, the V-belt will slip and squeel! The alternator will be under a heavy load
and the belt won't be able to drive it. Ha! That's why all the new vehicles with big alternators have serpentine belts. Stick
with a 60A.

 

[Unkle Krusty]

100 amp may require dual V belts. Vot the others said about 60 amps being enough. My boat has 55 amps, and we run a lot more stuff than a cage. The Chinese V belts slip. A used US or Canada made belt works better than a new Chinese V belt. My van has a separate regulator as stock. Smart regulators sound cool, but there are millions of cages using alternators with a built in regulator, including my boat.

 

[koosh]

This would be ok if you planned to do some arc welding.......WHY do you think you need 100 amps plus output???
BOB RENTON

No one said i NEED a 100 amp….. i had asked if a Powermaster alternator that is rated at 60 at idle and ramps up to 100 would work safely

 

[RJRENTON]

No one said i NEED a 100 amp….. i had asked if a Powermaster alternator that is rated at 60 at idle and ramps up to 100 would work safely

The BEST THING you should do is totally ignore the B.S. presented in # 15 and # 20 as this has nothing to do with the real world. All this guy presents is total speculation that the ammeter MUST show charge all the time. MOPAR designed the system to reflect the fluctuating loads under all operating conditions. Amperage functions +/- is a normal occurrence. This guy NEVER shows the calculations to support his opinions.....the reason...is he doesn't know how to do the ampacity/wire size determination calculations. The best way to get rid of this phoney person is ask for specifics and his calculations. . The original Mopar system has functioned well for 50 plus years......now ....everyone in an engineer and wants to change everything based on hearsay, a buddy's recommendation and the diatribe presented by the poster in #15 & #20.......and Powermaster is not the universal fix for apparent changing system issues.......Just my opinion and thoughts.......
BOB RENTON

 

[Unkle Krusty]

My alternators, in the boat and in the van, charge the starting battery, plus the two 6 volts batteries connected to make 12V.
I use a manual switch in the van, and and auto magic unit in the boat. Both have solar panels when for when we are parked. The E fridge is on all the time. I need to remember to turn the manual switch to off in the van.

 

[Crackedback]

The BEST THING you should do is totally ignore the B.S. presented in # 15 and # 20 as this has nothing to do with the real world. All this guy presents is total speculation that the ammeter MUST show charge all the time. MOPAR designed the system to reflect the fluctuating loads under all operating conditions. Amperage functions +/- is a normal occurrence. This guy NEVER shows the calculations to support his opinions.....the reason...is he doesn't know how to do the ampacity/wire size determination calculations. The best way to get rid of this phoney person is ask for specifics and his calculations. . The original Mopar system has functioned well for 50 plus years......now ....everyone in an engineer and wants to change everything based on hearsay, a buddy's recommendation and the diatribe presented by the poster in #15 & #20.......and Powermaster is not the universal fix for apparent changing system issues.......Just my opinion and thoughts.......
BOB RENTON

We worked on plenty of burned up totally OEM equipped cars in the 70's. Sit on an LA freeway under the conditions outlined and the bulkhead gets cooked.
Had the alternator output at idle been sufficient to support the system in that driving condition, many of those rigs wouldn't have ended up totalled out/junkyard pieces.

We were a mopar family. Sat on the freeway in evening rush hour, 85-100* days with AC, lights on and mom kicking the Ol' wagon into N, keeping the RPM up so the charging system didn't cook. Dad was an engineer, uncle owned a shop (loved the fried mopars $, although he was a chevy guy, I worked in shop with him), they figured out the issue. Mom loved the Wagon, hated rush hour traffic.

Not gonna argue over the garbage, real world application of the nonsense system.

 

[Sinitro]

The BEST THING you should do is totally ignore the B.S. presented in # 15 and # 20 as this has nothing to do with the real world. All this guy presents is total speculation that the ammeter MUST show charge all the time. MOPAR designed the system to reflect the fluctuating loads under all operating conditions. Amperage functions +/- is a normal occurrence. This guy NEVER shows the calculations to support his opinions.....the reason...is he doesn't know how to do the ampacity/wire size determination calculations. The best way to get rid of this phoney person is ask for specifics and his calculations. . The original Mopar system has functioned well for 50 plus years......now ....everyone in an engineer and wants to change everything based on hearsay, a buddy's recommendation and the diatribe presented by the poster in #15 & #20.......and Powermaster is not the universal fix for apparent changing system issues.......Just my opinion and thoughts.......
BOB RENTON

 

[Nacho-RT74]

The BEST THING you should do is totally ignore the B.S. presented in # 15 and # 20 as this has nothing to do with the real world. All this guy presents is total speculation that the ammeter MUST show charge all the time. MOPAR designed the system to reflect the fluctuating loads under all operating conditions. Amperage functions +/- is a normal occurrence. This guy NEVER shows the calculations to support his opinions.....the reason...is he doesn't know how to do the ampacity/wire size determination calculations. The best way to get rid of this phoney person is ask for specifics and his calculations. . The original Mopar system has functioned well for 50 plus years......now ....everyone in an engineer and wants to change everything based on hearsay, a buddy's recommendation and the diatribe presented by the poster in #15 & #20.......and Powermaster is not the universal fix for apparent changing system issues.......Just my opinion and thoughts.......
BOB RENTON

WHERE I SAY THAT?…. ASSHOLE!! Where in fact on THAT SAME POST YOU MENTION I EXPRESSLY SAY TO GET ZERO READING IS THE GOAL, with no or minimum ammeter flickering!!! ASSHOLE!!!

I dare you to find ONE SINGLE POST in all the internet history and not just here but also at Moparts, dodgecharger or 1971-1974dodgecharger boards or any Facebook group where I say that!

I knew you were to say some BULLSHIT AS USUAL, I predicted that on that same post!


Even with my unperfect English you still need Learn to read your own mother (and pretty sure only one) language

 

[RJRENTON]

WHERE I SAY THAT?…. ASSHOLE!! Where in fact on THAT SAME POST YOU MENTION I EXPRESSLY SAY TO GET ZERO READING IS THE GOAL, with no or minimum ammeter flickering!!! ASSHOLE!!!

I dare you to find ONE SINGLE POST in all the internet history and not just here but also at Moparts, dodgecharger or 1971-1974dodgecharger boards or any Facebook group where I say that!

I knew you were to say some BULLSHIT AS USUAL, I predicted that on that same post!


Even with my unperfect English you still need Learn to read your own mother (and pretty sure only one) language

Want to have a thinking contest???? Let's test to see how much you don't know.....about anything, especially Mopar alternators, wiring schematics, wire sizing or ampacity and knowledge of Ohm's Law and Kirchoff's circuit analysis....all DC stuff.......the proof is in the "pudding"....if you know what that means or as they say in Missouri....."Show me"........and that's my real name, not a fictitious one.......
BOB RENTON

 

[RJRENTON]

View attachment 1875931

ABSOLUTELY TRUE STATEMENT......thank you for your astitute observation acknowledgement......although I would prefer a Blue shirt.......
BOB RENTON

 

[dadsbee]

No conceit in your family, I see you got it all!

 

[Photon440]

Want to have a thinking contest???? Let's test to see how much you don't know.....about anything, especially Mopar alternators, wiring schematics, wire sizing or ampacity and knowledge of Ohm's Law and Kirchoff's circuit analysis....all DC stuff.......the proof is in the "pudding"....if you know what that means or as they say in Missouri....."Show me"........and that's my real name, not a fictitious one.......
BOB RENTON

Calm down Bob, nowhere in his post was a contest mentioned, challenged or hinted at. He asked a question, you hit 'reply' and chose to prevaricate.