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Starts and quits after 15-30 seconds

Also my 76 Power Wagon would do this and it turned out to be the ECU but it had to sit 15-30 minutes before it would start again
Working at a Dodge Dealership 74-78 allot of the O.E. were bad. The factory rep told us to freeze it with a can shot of freon (That horible R-12 stuff that kills the planet) . Go out on a road call with the freon and a replacement ECU. If it started,replace the ECU and return the failed unit for warranty claim.
 
Really...... you honestly need to stop responding on this board.

I love how you think NO one knows anything but you. One can only sit back and laugh at your worthless post.

You truly do have a problem and I actually feel a little sad for you.

Once again offer no help to OP, just here to have a tantrum. You don't want to actually help ? Then move on
WHY????Just because you do not agree or understand the obvious .......you must be a believer in the magazine articles or have succumbed to peer pressure.......it's not that I know more than anyone else, just the people that are gullible enough to believe in magazine articles of Utube presentations .......perhaps YOU need to stop cretequing things you know nothing about????, ie, Mopar ignition systems.....????....it's difficult to see people waste their $$ only to fail realize their expectations.......
BOB RENTON
 
WHY????Just because you do not agree or understand the obvious .......you must be a believer in the magazine articles or have succumbed to peer pressure.......it's not that I know more than anyone else, just the people that are gullible enough to believe in magazine articles of Utube presentations .......perhaps YOU need to stop cretequing things you know nothing about????, ie, Mopar ignition systems.....????....it's difficult to see people waste their $$ only to fail realize their expectations.......
BOB RENTON

Little thick are we ?

I am as much belive in the electronic Ignition as you are in points style system. They both work what is GD problem with that? Your rants about the moment anything goes wrong with a system and you jump up and down like a damn fool. Are you trying say that the points system never have its problems ?

There are thousands of people that have perfectly running and reliable electronic set up on their car. Infact I would feel there are more cars of this ear on the road converted to the setup, than running the original points.. So get over yourself

I know nothing about the system? Ok , where ever you come up with that ? I don't care . Stay in your enclosed little world where you are the only person that is right the rest of us will continue to help each other
 
Working at a Dodge Dealership 74-78 allot of the O.E. were bad. The factory rep told us to freeze it with a can shot of freon (That horible R-12 stuff that kills the planet) . Go out on a road call with the freon and a replacement ECU. If it started,replace the ECU and return the failed unit for warranty claim.
Had not heard of that solution but I like it.
 
Was all this done recently to try and solve the short run problem ? Or did you do all the rewiring and then problem started ?
Yesreday I replaced the ballast resister,tried it and was the same,then I tried a different coil,still the same,today I'm going to try an orange box ECU to see if that would be it.It's been a problem off an on for a few years
 
As a Draftsman I work with a lot of Engineers & Architects. Architects are Prima donna's while Engineers struggle with people skills.
Doesn't mean their bad people they just come across that way some times.
I don't think it is a ballast resister problem if it runs any more past letting off the key start. I have had a coil do what you are describing.
Also my 76 Power Wagon would do this and it turned out to be the ECU but it had to sit 15-30 minutes before it would start again
I'm going to try an orange box ECU to day
 
Was all this done recently to try and solve the short run problem ? Or did you do all the rewiring and then problem started ?
Been off and on for years,has gotten worse lately,before you'd have to turn the ign. switch off and on many times before U could restart,had to watch the Ammeter gauge,if it only moved off the middle it would turn over but no start,but when it moved to the left an 1/8th inch it would start and if it would stay running it would run all day until I shut it off,funny thing was it usually would do that about 3-4 times and then start and go.
 
Is the ECU mounted on the firewall and have the mounting holes for the screws been cleaned back to some bare metal for a good grounding of the case.?

Bad ground will not allow unit to work correctly.
I think so,but I'll double check it and I'm going to try an orange box and the grounding too.
 
Wow, the guy is looking for help not you bashing him for upgrading his car. Thousand upon thousands of people make this change with little to no issue. Points have also left stranded more than once…..

To the OP, it’s obviously ignition related and when it’s random like that it’s hard to say. But seeing as it does run I’d rule out the ballast and start looking at the ignition control module and coil. Do you have spares of either laying around that you can try?
Tried a different coil but it did the same,so that's not it,but the ICM will be checked today,I think I have a new spare.I'll let U know after i try that.
 
Bypassing the bal res: if it is 4 pin bal res: remove the wires from each end of the bal res that connects to the coil. Using something [ paper clip?] to connect the two wires [ removed from bal res ] together. See if it is fixed.
 
To all the responces I received,Thanks to U all,Problem solved .I swiched out the old Wells ECU w/ a Mopar Orange box,rehchecked the grounding ,put it in,and it's all good.Thanks again for all the help.Mopar 2Ya
 
Success ! And thank you for telling us what the solution was..helps other people that are trying to solve similar problems !
 
I worked on a fleet of cabs in the later 70s. The cars got close to 100k a year in Baltimore city. The 5 pin boxes failed the most,we were replacing them with 4 pin boxes and they pretty much fixed that problem. I converted my 70 coronet to 4 pin electronic and put over 60k on it without a hiccup. Chrysler parts though:thumbsup:
 
Are we sure this isn't a fuel delivery problem?

Sounds like enough time to drain the bowls before the pump catches up.

I had exactly that issue last week with a small diesel generator.
This could be it too, very weak pump. But you’d think once drained it would take along time to start cranking and cranking to pump enough to fill the bowl?
 
WHY????Just because you do not agree or understand the obvious .......you must be a believer in the magazine articles or have succumbed to peer pressure.......it's not that I know more than anyone else, just the people that are gullible enough to believe in magazine articles of Utube presentations .......perhaps YOU need to stop cretequing things you know nothing about????, ie, Mopar ignition systems.....????....it's difficult to see people waste their $$ only to fail realize their expectations.......
BOB RENTON
Many you really seem to be a PITA. Please, as many have requested, just stop posting on this board.
 
To all the responces I received,Thanks to U all,Problem solved .I swiched out the old Wells ECU w/ a Mopar Orange box,rehchecked the grounding ,put it in,and it's all good.Thanks again for all the help.Mopar 2Ya
Alls well that ends well. Maybe doesn't apply :lol:
 
Many you really seem to be a PITA. Please, as many have requested, just stop posting on this board.
WHY???? I believe in the right of free speech, even though you may or may not agree with my position. BTW...what gives you the right to act as spokesperson/editor to stop posting?.......it must be an awesome responsibility, to know everything about everything.......
BOB RENTON
 
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