Where to connect a spade for key-on ignition in fuse block, '70 Charger

[Coelacanth]

Guys, I need to connect a few spade connectors to the back of my fuse block for a tach and voltmeter to come on when key is "on", but not to "start". I tried searching for the relevant blue IGN 1 wire under the dash but the wire schematic diagram has me confused and I couldn't find a wire I could be certain about to splice into. I'd rather just spade it into the fuse block. I see a few open male spades here, where should I connect my tach/voltmeter? Thanks!

 

[Kern Dog]

I had a minor meltdown then replaced my fuse panel with one that had one additional fuse in it. From 6 to 7 fuses.
I later added an additional fuse panel that is powered through the starter relay with a relay in between.

 

[gkent]

I recently did something similar but don't recall which tab I used. However its easy enough to figure out with a test light or meter.

 

[toolmanmike]

I later added an additional fuse panel that is powered through the starter relay with a relay in between.

View attachment 1919484

I was wondering if you found a different power source. More current through the bulkhead on these old cars is electrical suicide.

 

[Coelacanth]

I recently did something similar but don't recall which tab I used. However its easy enough to figure out with a test light or meter.

Thanks, I was hoping to know before I reinstall my instrument panel and don't want to connect a battery until that's back in the dash.

 

[gkent]

You don't need to connect a battery if you use a meter. One side to ground and touch the tabs with the other. The key on tab will not complete the circuit. Now put the key in the "on" position and that tab WILL complete the circuit.

 

[Coelacanth]

Sounds too easy. I'll probably test that out tonight.

 

[Coelacanth]

Question: There's a triangular-shaped orange connector in the dash wiring, it has one orange wire in, and splits out to 3 bullet pin sockets. One socket has a wire with bullet connector plugged into it and double orange wires going to the heater/fan control assembly. Another socket has a single orange wire with bullet pin connector outputting to the ashtray light.

Trying to find a picture, I should've taken one this morning...

Doesn't the ashtray light only get power when the key is turned to "on"? I could simply tap into this triangular connector with an additional wire.

EDIT: The triangular connector looks similar to this, but orange, not red (this image is for a 1971 Charger); and disregard the "courtesy lamp" label because on a '70, this has nothing to do with courtesy lights.

 

[gkent]

I believe that circuit is "live" full time. It's part of the light circuit that turns on the dome ligkt when the doors are opened - so live full time.

 

[Coelacanth]

I believe that circuit is "live" full time. It's part of the light circuit that turns on the dome ligkt when the doors are opened - so live full time.

That could be. I did some continuity tests with this 3-output connector (I mistakenly called it an orange connector but it's black with orange wires in/out). With no key or key to "On", it was always the same reading of a live circuit. Here's a pic of the actual connector, with 2 wires leading to the heater/fan control assembly from one of the bullet outputs. The only other wire that connected to this is another orange wire that went to the ashtray light (not shown connected here). So "live" full time seems to be accurate.

I also tested various spades in the fuse block that were also inconclusive. With key off or on, there was always continuity. Nothing I tried made a difference between key off or on. Doesn't the instrument panel need to be connected to properly test this?

 

[gkent]

Doesn't the instrument panel need to be connected to properly test this?

Possibly, all my wiring was hooked up when I was looking for "key on" power. I "think" it's the last terminal/fuse - the only one that's single.

 

[Nacho-RT74]

Fuse block just contains ACC and BATT sources.

Ign1 circuitry is not normally spliced anywhere to source some extra addition. 71/74 gets one source thought along the wiring, but not on fuse box althought 72/74 gets a fuse for that circuit for some accs (seatbelt warning system).

I can’t see a reason you couldn’t source tach and voltmeter from the ACC source thought. Other wise you’ll need to make your own splice along the existing wiring.

However you’ll never find any source on all the car getting full voltage on both stages (ign1 and 2). Just with ballast conected you can find both ign1 and 2 being hot at diff voltage levels though on every stage.

Just jumping ballast will get full 12v on both stages.

 

[gkent]

However you’ll never find any source on all the car getting full voltage on both stages (ign1 and 2). Just with ballast conected you can find both ign1 and 2 being hot at diff voltage levels though on every stage.

Huh ??? The ballast only reduces voltage to the coil - not the rest of the car !!

 

[Nacho-RT74]

Huh ??? The ballast only reduces voltage to the coil - not the rest of the car !!

When you are cranking, the ing1 circuit gets a feedback power being reduced throught the ballast. Hence why your brake light on cluster (linked to ign1 circuit) dimms

 

[gkent]

What's that got to do with what the OP is asking ??

 

[Coelacanth]

It's odd that the FSM has routing for every single wire and connector but doesn't include a schematic for the fuse block...