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Hydraulic Cam suggestions

I always suggest Hughes cams because they are actually made for Mopars. Hughes is a Mopar only outfit and their cams are ground for the Mopar 906 lifter. The Mopar lifter is bigger and can handle a more aggressive ramp rate so when you buy another cam like comp they use Chevy grinds which are based on a Chevy lifter. The Hughes cams are free horsepower.
 
Running power brakes? With 3.55 gears and your desired CR I would suggest something around 215-220 @ .050, a dual pattern grind with a little more duration on the exhaust side will help with factory exhaust manifolds. Lift around .500” and a LSA of 112. It will make great low and mid-range torque for street driving while having enough snort to be fun on the drag strip.
 
215-220 @ .050, a dual pattern grind with a little more duration
I don't go along with that any more. ok let's say you go with a 215-221 cam and I put a 218-218 I will make less power ? they both have the same over lap.
 
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I don't go along with that any more. ok let's say you go with a 215-221 cam and I put a 218-218 I will make less power ? they both have the same over lap.

Folks a lot smarter than me claim a dual pattern cam is advantageous for manifolds. It makes sense to me because longer duration equals more “area under the curve” which SHOULD equal better flow. Most manufacturers catalogs have dual pattern grinds so they must show some benefit on the dyno. Whether or not it translates to a noticeable difference on the street is anyone’s guess.
 
what I saw in Dyno test was that they take a 215-215 cam and then they test a 215-221 cam and the 215-221 makes more Hp. they should test a 218-218 cam against a 215-221 cam to make everything equal. MR isky always said if you make more power with more exhaust duration then you intake duration was too small. Mopar performance cams always had the same intake and exhaust duration.
 
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Get your measured compression ratio. MEASURED, not guessed or that's what the factory said it was. For a list of measurements, Summit racing, search for pistons, click on whatever Chevy piston pops up first then scroll all the way down to compression calculator. Once you have that true number written down. Take said number and plug it into a dynamic compression calculator, wallace racing has a decent one.
Any cam that peaks your interest just plug the specs into the calculator/formula. A low dynamic compression will be lazy, less powerful, and temperamental. A smaller cam will result in a higher number and be better to drive, make more power on a regular type engine. But everyone wants the bigger cam and all the power. Using this will let you see how power will fall off with a "too big cam" and not enough engine under it.
Do not use this as a be all, end all. It is just a guideline, and a numerical way to see when cam gets "too big"
Believe me I'm a straight to the bottom of the page cam guy, but they don't always work.
Main thing is don't guess what you specs are and if you need to guess guess lower. Most factory stuff is off by quite a decent amount from all the NHRA blueprint minimums that get bounced around the internet like they are gospel, resulting in a engine that disappoints.
 
Is there a cam that I can max out the stock heads with the lower CR and still make power with the higher CR and flowing 440source heads with said cam?
no. but you can pick the best cam for the higher cr and better flowing heads if for sure you will change the heads.
 
I always suggest Hughes cams because they are actually made for Mopars. Hughes is a Mopar only outfit and their cams are ground for the Mopar 906 lifter. The Mopar lifter is bigger and can handle a more aggressive ramp rate so when you buy another cam like comp they use Chevy grinds which are based on a Chevy lifter. The Hughes cams are free horsepower.


I’m running an older Hughes 2330BL grind in my 383, I like it. Idles pretty good @800 and is very responsive. Of course I’m running a 3k stall converter and 3.73’s. So maybe next step down would be a good choice.
 
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