440 no start, any guesses guidance?

[RTDaddy]

To All,

Daytona clone, basically stock 440 with Mopar electronic ignition. Started and ran fine 3 weeks ago, tried to start ran about 10 seconds and quit. A couple of times it ran 4 - 5 seconds, but now nothing. Fusable link checks OK with test light, power to coil (11.3V) and 11.3 volts on neg coil post also (this right? neg post "hot" also)? Gap on distributor inductor coil checks ok at .008" per recommended (brass strip of course). No spark with plug connected and held to ground. Ground checks ok on motor, firewall, and radiator support. Power to electronic control module checks at 11.3V. What volts should I be looking for in and out of resistor on firewall? Any other ideas/suggestions?

Thanks to all.

 

[Don Frelier]

Try a different ECU box with the 4/5 pin connector.
You should also confirm power in the start position but from what I read that's not the issue.

 

[RemCharger]

And squeeze the female connectors in the ecu plug.

 

[sam dupont]

give it two tablespoons of gasoline and see if it pops

 

[RTDaddy]

Gas/starter fluid doesn't do it. apparently no spark. New ECU box tried also.

 

[dadsbee]

And squeeze the female connectors in the ecu plug.

Yep, they unfortunately don't do Kegels on their own!

 

[Bird 426]

Electronic ignition doesn't like low voltage either. If you have everything up to the distributor, rotor and cap okay? When starting, getting 12 volts to coil on ignition 1?

 

[PurpleBeeper]

Ballast resistor 12v in & 5V out (???). Unplug center distributor wire & place it near ground (still connected to coil). Disconnect “double bullet” plug at distributor. Turn ignition to run. Ground exposed bullet connector on wiring harness side momentarily. Every time you ground it, the distributor wire should jump a spark to ground. If spark jump - problem is distributor (cap, rotor, reluctor). If no spark - problem is coil, ignition box or ballast resistor. Check ballast resistor continuity with nothing plugged into it. That’s the most common problem

 

[sam dupont]

Gas/starter fluid doesn't do it. apparently no spark. New ECU box tried also.

My personal preference is gasoline never had a worn out diesel so I haven't had much experience with starting fluid.
Pull a plug wire and stick a screwdriver up it and see if it makes spark when you turn it over

 

[twecomm]

The control module creates the coils path to ground THRU the control module's large silver transistor on the front of the control module. The reluctor in the distributor goes into the control module and creates electrical pulses that switch that large transistor on & off mimicking the opening and closing like points would have done to switch the - side of the coil to ground.
With ignition switch in "crank position", you should see full battery voltage on both sides of the ballast resistor as the ignition switch electrically bypasses the resistor. When ignition switch is in "run position", the resistor is electrically in the circuit path, and you should see full battery volts on the one side of the resistor and a REDUCED voltage, (about 2-3 volts lower) on the other side of the resistor.
Based on what you say, sounds like a bad control module or coil, or associated wiring. Your battery voltage also is low if it's at 11.3 V. with no load. The control module case MUST have a good ground connection to function. Hope this helps...