For a clean look, gut the ballast and solder in a piece of 12 gauge solid wire instead of the resister. It is easy to bypass the amp gauge on these models with a bolt in jumper at the bulkhead connector. Then add a voltmeter.
Brown? It sends 12 volts to the coil-just during cranking and it is necessary, so either connect al 3 or do the concealed bypass.
Is the bolt in jumper something you make or buy? I intend to have the amp gauge converted to volts.
Can you post their instructions
Blow up my photo and you will see the jumper I made at the BH connector. It's a 10-minute job.
Yeah I traced down the one that feeds the coil (pos). There’s one more seems like it’s blue, same gauge as the other. What else needs the voltage reduced other than a ignition coil?
You do not want reduced voltage, full 12 volts to dizzy and coil.
They don’t have any on the website for me to link. It stated it needs a full 12v and just find a power source, use 14 ga. wire and fuse at 15 amps. That I get, but this other wire besides the pos coil feed worries me. I hate to send 12v somewhere that needs it reduced.
Nothing else needs reduced voltage. Did you not get instructions with it?
Got that, but there’s another wire on that terminal. Trying to figure out where it goes and what it does that needs the voltage reduced.
Yes I did. They are 10 miles away in my shop. Pretty straightforward. Just really basic distributor installation instructions. I can’t think of anything else that needs it reduced either. This all appears to be factory connections. Hate to send 12v somewhere it’s not supposed to be.
You bypass the resistor. The factory 12 volt feed stays at the coil. Your new wires go to coil positive, negative, and one to a engine ground point. If there is another wire it most likely will be your tach feed.
This is on the ballast resistor itself, not the distributor. I have to supply 12v to the coil positive. Three on the input side, two on the output side, of which one is the coil positive. The other I can’t figure out. I hate to throw 12v on it and hope for the best.
Just hook them together you are bypassing the ballast. You are making a mountain out of a molehill.
Does post #6 answer your question?
There is another set of contacts in the ignition switch that provides 12 volts -bypassing the ballast-to give a hotter spark for starting. It uses a brown colored wire.
