CrazyBoutRacin
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Would that happen to be a yellow wire from the factory?
Ballast Resistor Question
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Post a picture of what you have. Have you looked at wiring in a FSM?
Vaanth
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To add a little to the instructions already noted for bypassing the ballast resistor and what the ballast connections should be, see the following:
Simplified wiring diagram of a stock 1965 point ignition system highlighting the ballast resistor connections:
The wire colors in the drawing are what is originally in a 1965 B-body with this setup. Description of the circuits in this diagram are as follows:
- Circuit J3 connects to the ignition switch "Ignition START" via bulkhead terminal "D".
- Circuit R5 which junctions with circuit J2 at the regulator to the ballast resistor, connects to the ignition switch "Ignition RUN" (J2) via bulkhead terminal "B", which becomes circuit J2 behind the bulkhead.
- Circuit J2A connects from the ballast resistor to the positive (+) terminal on the coil.
To bypass the ballast resistor, connect the J2A & J3 combined terminal to the J2 terminal, with one of the methods already described, or another of your choice.
If there are other connections, or other wire colors, or other deices suscha s a later style voltage regulator, things have been changed. Adjust the wiring adaptations accordingly, but the simple bypass of the ballast resistor should be the same.
CrazyBoutRacin
Well-Known Member
Would that happen to be a yellow wire from the factory?
im sorry you’re right. Here’s what I’ve got. On the left terminal it has two wires, brown and dark blue. I believe the dk blue goes to the pos on coil and the brown goes to bulk head. On the right terminal it has three wires, I think this is the 12v side. Two dk blues and one yellow (I think). One dk blue goes to bulkhead, another blue goes to voltage regulator. The yellow looks like it goes to the bulkhead connector.
Yellow is the start signal to the starter relay.
CrazyBoutRacin
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CrazyBoutRacin
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This is a big help. I believe there has been a voltage regulator change. This one is a thinner version of the original I believe. It appears to have a circuit board in it. Would that change the wiring any? I have one wire connected to the input side of the ballast resistor that goes to the bulkhead connector and that’s it. I don’t have continuity from any wire on the ballast resistor to the voltage regulator.
Diagram in post 24 is your friend. The only addition for electronic voltage regulator is an additional blue wire to the alternator. ( from the blue power circuit. )Hopefully you have the matching dual field wire new style alt.
CrazyBoutRacin
Well-Known Member
I’m not sure about the alternator. I haven’t had it very long, but it is a running, driving vehicle and it was charging. I do plan on changing to a one wire type soon. I think I’m back on track with this deal but I would like to ask one more question. Both wires on j2a and j3 look to be 14 ga wire. All the wires on the other terminal appear to be a combination of 16 or 18 gauge. Does this mean I’m supplying the coil positive with undersize wire? The distributor instructions recommend 14ga/15 amp supply. It looks like I’ve got 16 or 18 gauge supply wire feeding 14 gauge wire with 12v to the coil.
Vaanth
Well-Known Member
The diagram has been modified for the 1970+ alternator and dual field connection alternator. This connection diagram shows how it would be electrically added. Physical wire layout and possibly connection points could vary some depending on how the installer performed it.
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Your runs are so short the gauge is not critical.
Mike
CrazyBoutRacin
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Makes sense. I think I may change a few things when I re-wire. I sure appreciate your help!
Do you have an electric choke?
Nacho-RT74
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J2A circuit becomes brown wire on factory electronic reg setup since 70. I guess to save from confusion with the wire running to the alt field along the same harness, on same blue, just diff gauge.
(Just for reference to the rest of members if they check their own installation on later models and note that)
CrazyBoutRacin
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It’s a Holley with an electric choke but not connected yet.
CrazyBoutRacin
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Want to thank everyone who chimed in with advice. Everything worked out great and I learned something with everyone’s help! I replaced the distributor and balancer due to an old balancer that was separating and a tired old MP distributor causing the car to not run smoothly. Starts and runs like a top. Now to get this Firecore distributor dialed in! Thanks for everyone’s patience and time!
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And yet still no pics. U have been asked a few times. What don’t u get about that? They would save a lot of time if we could put eyes on it. Kim
CrazyBoutRacin
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I didn’t add pics because with folks help I got it figured out in fairly short order. It was a ballast resistor with two terminals. I gave the number of wires on each side with the corresponding colors. I got the assistance quickly, which was appreciated.
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