• When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.

1966 440

Driven

Well-Known Member
Local time
5:08 AM
Joined
Sep 15, 2010
Messages
62
Reaction score
0
Location
Rhode Island
Have the chance to buy a 1966 full size chrysler for $1100. It has its original 440 which runs well. The transmission was rebuilt but has 50,000 miles on it. Dont know rear gear ratio, has 4 decent tires. The car is rotted but I should be able to get $200-$400 for usable interor and exterior parts. I have a decent 383 for a project but was thinking of going with the 440. Probably drop it in to get the car on the rode and then rebuild it at a later point. What do you guys think about the price? I bought a full size car several years back in similar condition for $425 thats how I got my 383 and I made enough on the parts that it almost covered the cost of the whole car. The project is a 66 Belv.
 
Well, if it runs good and doesn't need anything I suppose that's not a bad price. Of course it's offset with you having to pull it and get rid of the car and parts, but if it generates cash I suppose it's OK - plus it will keep you off the streets for a while!

As a side note, the 66 - 67 440's have the best heads (915 closed chamber) so that's a plus, however you will most likely have the small exhaust valves and no hard seats. Drop it in and run it 'till it quits then rebuild it.

Oh, and I personally approve of a 66 Belvedere II with a 440 and 915 heads, but then again I'm biased! Good luck.
 
Well the good thing is my 15yr old son has been wanting to work on something lately. So I figure it would be a chance for him to get some wrenching time witout worrying to much about him braking anything. Come to think of it he recently got a few bad grades in school maybe I will have him strip every nut and bolt off the car just for laughs. Only kidding!
 
In 66, the 440 most likely came with the 158 heads. The 516's were usually used on everything smaller while the 915's were used on the 67 hi-po 440. Now I've heard of a few small exhaust valve 915's being produced but have never laid my hands on any. As for the car, if you part it out, you can still recoup a couple of hundred by dragging the remains to the scale. Scrap prices have been up lately but I haven't checked in about a week. Yup, the prices move that often and don't forget the 8 3/4 is worth something too....
 
I just purchased a 66 Imperial with the original 440. It has 116,800 miles, freshly rebuilt trans, and runs like a top without any noises or smoke. I paid $1,200 for it and think this is a fair price considering I don’t have to rebuild any of it. The interior and exterior bright works are very nice so I think I can recoup a little money there and the rest can go to the scrap yard. The body is in fair shape for an Ohio car of this age but I don’t know of anyone who would want to spend the money to restore it.
I think I may even be able to use the front 6 way power adjustable seats in my GTX; based on rough measurements. (Before anyone gets excited, my GTX is missing the original seats.)
 
The 66 383 I have has the 516 heads. I have seen some of these smaller valve 915 heads for sale but wasnt sure what they came off of. Forgot about scraping the remains. Azure what heads are on the 440 you bought? Thanks for input.
 
In 66, the 440 most likely came with the 158 heads. The 516's were usually used on everything smaller while the 915's were used on the 67 hi-po 440. Now I've heard of a few small exhaust valve 915's being produced but have never laid my hands on any. As for the car, if you part it out, you can still recoup a couple of hundred by dragging the remains to the scale. Scrap prices have been up lately but I haven't checked in about a week. Yup, the prices move that often and don't forget the 8 3/4 is worth something too....

I've got 7 sets of 915's and most are small valve. Years ago I saw a 66 383 that had small valve 915's. The large valve ones have an "HP" stamped on the machined ends.
 
not a bad price, I bought a 67 chrysler 300, 440 with the 915 heads, the motor ran good, although the trans needed rebuilt, but here is something to think about,
I pulled the pan, and of course on a 40 year old car the thing was sludged up, so Automatically im looking at a new oil pump, and the water pump was coroded since it hadnt been run in twenty years, so the little maintenance parts will catch up to you. But on the flip side, i made all my money back PLUS enough for a good rebuild
 
I've got 7 sets of 915's and most are small valve. Years ago I saw a 66 383 that had small valve 915's. The large valve ones have an "HP" stamped on the machined ends.
And I thought I had a lot of heads laying around lol. You have a machine shop?
 
Well I rented a trailer today should be picking it up tomorrow. I figure I will put some new gaskets on it at the very least before dropping it in.
 
Around here, where I live, a 440 by itself goes for an easy $1000. It won't have 915 heads, but you get a tranny, another rear end chuck and at least 3000 lbs. of scrap metal, hope you bought it.
 
And I thought I had a lot of heads laying around lol. You have a machine shop?

Well, sort of. I'm not an automotive machine shop, but I do have a mill and a lathe to help expand my fabrication abilities. As far as the heads go, I've been collecting parts for at least 25 yrs. I think the first step in realizing there is a problem is to admit one has a problem :grin:
 
Well I bought it yesterday. I didnt have much time to tear into it but it has the 516 heads, the original tranny has been rebuilt. The guy that owned the car didnt want a diff tranny he wanted the original rebuilt. And it has 50,000 miles since the rebuild. Original carb, everthing has late 65 or early 66 casting dates with an early 66 build date. The outside of the engine looked crappy but I pulled one valve cover to get the cating date and there was not one bit of sludge. Rest of the car was worse than described but thats ok still some parts to sell. Also had an aftermarket aluminum radiator that looks like its for a GM. I sould be able to recoup some money on the radiator.
 
The early 66 build date explains the 516 heads. Still closed chamber and the half point of compression will be a benefit.

Change the converter pump seal and throw the tranny in. After you know it works well put in a shift kit. Ready to race!
 
Well, sort of. I'm not an automotive machine shop, but I do have a mill and a lathe to help expand my fabrication abilities. As far as the heads go, I've been collecting parts for at least 25 yrs. I think the first step in realizing there is a problem is to admit one has a problem :grin:

So where is the problem? I don't see a problem. :nono:You can't have to much stuff.:no:
 
Cool beans on the engine! Sounds like the owner took care of it and changed the oil regularly.

Problem? The problem is when you get old and end up with so much stuff that it's hard to walk through the shop lol. I also have a lathe and a mill....and way too many tool that I hardly use anymore. Just retired as a machinist....
 
Driven,
How do I tell what heads I have?
I'm new to Mopars.
 
Azure, the casting number is on top of the 2nd intake runner. Take the valve cover off of the driver's side and look at the runner roof for #3 cylinder....
 
Cool beans on the engine! Sounds like the owner took care of it and changed the oil regularly.

Problem? The problem is when you get old and end up with so much stuff that it's hard to walk through the shop lol. I also have a lathe and a mill....and way too many tool that I hardly use anymore. Just retired as a machinist....

I think I need to go shopping in your shop :tongueflap:
 
Thanks Cranky,
This will have to wait until I remove the engine some day.
 
Auto Transport Service
Back
Top