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Replacing rear wheel bearing 70 bee

R

RShaips

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I took my axles out today. Both of the bearings are shot. I have read about the green bearings which I plan to use but have a couple of questions. The old bearings and the stop ring have to come off. Do the new bearings come with the stop ring? The area that the bearing rides on is not in the best shape, has grooves etc. Does this matter or can I put the new bearings in there the way they are? Also when I have new bearings pushed on should replace the inner seal? It is in good shape and my understanding is that it really is not needed with the new green bearings. Any helpful suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks
 
Get yourself a pile of those green bearings. You will be changing them like clockwork.
 
Some clarification needed in your post:

RShaips said:
I took my axles out today. Both of the bearings are shot. Did you hear growling noises? Any chance that a cleaning and repacking will put you back on the road? The original set 7 tapered rollers will have the outer race loose and that might appear to be a problem if you are used to a Ford style bearing.

I have read about the green bearings which I plan to use but have a couple of questions. The old bearings and the stop ring have to come off. Do the new bearings come with the stop ring? The area that the bearing rides on is not in the best shape, has grooves etc. Does this matter or can I put the new bearings in there the way they are? What area are you talking about? The axle housing bore can be pretty rough but that's fine since the outer race sits in there.


Also when I have new bearings pushed on should replace the inner seal? Not a bad idea. Greens are greased so you shouldn't have any oil diluting them.

It is in good shape and my understanding is that it really is not needed with the new green bearings. Any helpful suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks
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- - - Updated - - -

The Greens come with the plates and a big spiralock ring to hold things together. I'm pretty sure they come with the press on lock ring too.
 
Just my opinion--If the factory timpkin style bearings last for 50 years, why use Green bearings when there has been so many failures?. The timpkin bearings are easy to adjust axle end play if you can read the shop manual. One thing I don't agree with in the shop manual is the way they tell how to remove the old bearings. Let someone with the right tools and experience remove and replace those bearings. The timpkins come with the retainer rings, The seals are easy to replace and not expensive..............................MO
 
Thanks for the replies. Meep the outer rings are very loose and have no grease at all and yes they made plenty of noise. This is a car that I am restoring and has been off the road for 15 years. Maybe I should just repack them and reinstall and see how it sounds. I assumed that the bearings were shot because they were so loose. I am not sure how to adjust them. If I put new ones in I really don't care which bearings I use. This car will not be driven much so I thought that the green bearings would be easier to deal with. Thanks
 
green bearings were made for drag racing,originaly,and they allow for easy gear swaps.many people,including myself,run them on street cars since they eliminate the need to adjust the axles.if you had any movement and or noise in the old bearings,replace them.have a driveline shop swap them since they need to be heat pressed and allowed to slowly cool.always replace any seals you can get to,cheep insurance.use the greens if you want,they are just flat roller bearings vs the factory tappered.every car made since 1990 uses that design and they dont really have any faults.
 
Actually, Mopar went to the needle roller bearing in the late 70's. Timkens are just a tapered roller, only the rollers in the Timkens are much bigger than the newer needle bearings. Ford used ball bearings on a lot of their cars. Don't know when they started but most if not all of them during the 60's used a ball bearing. Nothing really wrong with a ball but the Timkens are much more durable and take a ton more side loading than a ball does.
 
Super bee 1 bearings.jpgSuper bee bearings.jpgThis is what is in there.
 
Cornpatch MO said:
Just my opinion--If the factory timpkin style bearings last for 50 years, why use Green bearings when there has been so many failures?. The timpkin bearings are easy to adjust axle end play if you can read the shop manual. One thing I don't agree with in the shop manual is the way they tell how to remove the old bearings. Let someone with the right tools and experience remove and replace those bearings. The timpkins come with the retainer rings, The seals are easy to replace and not expensive..............................MO
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X100
The factory style are a great design and last forever. I think most of the problems with them are from Cheby people who don't understand them and/or people that don't read the service manual.
 
It is so easy to remove the axles I think I might just clean and repack the bearings and see how it works. Before I took it apart the driver side had a little play in and out and the passenger side was pretty tight.
 
I just swapped mine out for the Green type. I bought the kit from Summit Racing, and it included the inner seals along with the retainer rings.
It was an easy procedure,,, I just cut into the original retainer rings with a cut off wheel, split them with a chizel and hammer, did the same for the bearing itself, cleaned everything up on the axle, tossed the adjuster and retainer plates off to the side, and reassembled using the new retainer plates, bearings and retainer rings..... A simple bottle jack press is what I used to press the new parts onto the axle..... The whole thing took a few hours to do!
I had my little helper along the way too!
27268_10200553552217622_627559153_n.jpg1098517_10200553546737485_2091357867_n.jpg557912_10200553541657358_1353787815_n.jpg
 
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