rear axle bearing service

[vsj100]

Hi - It's Scott in San Jose. I think many you will know the answer to my question. Mine is a 1968 Dodge B body. I noticed the inner seal in the rear end housing then the gasket at the 5 bolt flange. How are the outer axle bearings serviced? Hand pack them like front spindle bearings?
Thank you!

 

[PurpleBeeper]

Yes - your question is confusing

 

[RemCharger]

You can use a grease needle if you have one.

 

[vsj100]

You can use a grease needle if you have one.

Right but the axles need to come out to do that it seems.
Thanks

 

[RemCharger]

Right but the axles need to come out to do that it seems.
Thanks

Correct.

 

[R413]

Remove axles
Photos #1-2 Napa grease needle, 700-1193 2 per pack.

#4 Clean bearing to zero grease and dirt left. Totally clean or keep going. Solvent and a brush on the outer areas, flush it out and roll it around with race pulled against rollers. You can use a red straw from a spray can to push between roller and get grease out. Final clean with brake cleaner. Do the same for cavity on the axle housing.

#5-6 Insert needle half way in, my finger is against the seal surface and finger hits the ring to stop from going in too far. pump grease between every roller on lower edge untill it starts pushing out the ends.

#7 Put some grease on top of rollers
Pull race down on bearing and roll it to disperse grease

#8 Wipe off excess grease. This is what it looks like when going back in the housing.

Should be a thin film of grease on the clean shiny area, that's where the seal rides

Put some grease in cavity in housing and a bit on the seal so it's not dry

 

[1967coronet]

Couple things I will toss in, good time to pull the old ones & replace the inner seals. If you do not have a seal driver set you can use a piece of 2" pvc pipe with a coupler or cap on the end , that coupler / cap is very close to the seal dia.
Put a new seal under the retain plates and set your axle end play.
A service manual will take you through that step by step.
Or when you get to that point post again for help one of us can walk you through it.

 

[vsj100]

Remove axles
Photos #1-2 Napa grease needle, 700-1193 2 per pack.

#4 Clean bearing to zero grease and dirt left. Totally clean or keep going. Solvent and a brush on the outer areas, flush it out and roll it around with race pulled against rollers. You can use a red straw from a spray can to push between roller and get grease out. Final clean with brake cleaner. Do the same for cavity on the axle housing.

#5-6 Insert needle half way in, my finger is against the seal surface and finger hits the ring to stop from going in too far. pump grease between every roller on lower edge untill it starts pushing out the ends.

#7 Put some grease on top of rollers
Pull race down on bearing and roll it to disperse grease

#8 Wipe off excess grease. This is what it looks like when going back in the housing.

Should be a thin film of grease on the clean shiny area, that's where the seal rides

Put some grease in cavity in housing and a bit on the seal so it's not dry

View attachment 1627871

View attachment 1627872

View attachment 1627873

View attachment 1627874

View attachment 1627875

View attachment 1627876

View attachment 1627877

View attachment 1627878

Excellent. Thank you

 

[vsj100]

I have removed my 391 and installed my 323 open style. Please let me know the axle end play. I should be able to finish it Friday.
Thanks!

 

[1967coronet]

The end play should be .08 thou give or take a bit.
Dial indicator comes in handy, or you can do it without and be fine.
Back off the adjuster ring a few turns. Axles in and retain bolts tight except for the one that holds the ring locking pawl on the right side.
Dead blow hammer to seat left side axle, also a few taps on the right side,
Go back and dbl ck the left side is seated.
Turn the adjuster ring on the right side until that axle has no end play.
Now back to the left side and make sure you have zero end play.
Back to the right side , back off the adjust ring 2 notchs an measure your end play if useing the dial indicator,
Depending on bearings ect, you may have to back off another notch. Put your lock pawl in and secure it with that last bolt.
If you do not have the dial once you feel movment in and out on the axle your to loose. Go back in a notch and try again.
Right at the point you loose movment stop. If the lock pawl hits a notch put it on. If not back off just enough to get it on.
Back around and dbl, check that left side, for zero play.
Now rotate the rear diff a few turns and recheck end play.
If all is still good fill the diff with your 80/90.
I try to be close to the .06 to .08 once you roll it or drive it will loosen up a bit.

 

[1 Wild R/T]

Remove axles
Photos #1-2 Napa grease needle, 700-1193 2 per pack.

#4 Clean bearing to zero grease and dirt left. Totally clean or keep going. Solvent and a brush on the outer areas, flush it out and roll it around with race pulled against rollers. You can use a red straw from a spray can to push between roller and get grease out. Final clean with brake cleaner. Do the same for cavity on the axle housing.

#5-6 Insert needle half way in, my finger is against the seal surface and finger hits the ring to stop from going in too far. pump grease between every roller on lower edge untill it starts pushing out the ends.

#7 Put some grease on top of rollers
Pull race down on bearing and roll it to disperse grease

#8 Wipe off excess grease. This is what it looks like when going back in the housing.

Should be a thin film of grease on the clean shiny area, that's where the seal rides

Put some grease in cavity in housing and a bit on the seal so it's not dry

View attachment 1627871

View attachment 1627872

View attachment 1627873

View attachment 1627874

View attachment 1627875

View attachment 1627876

View attachment 1627877

View attachment 1627878

The end play should be .08 thou give or take a bit.
Dial indicator comes in handy, or you can do it without and be fine.
Back off the adjuster ring a few turns. Axles in and retain bolts tight except for the one that holds the ring locking pawl on the right side.
Dead blow hammer to seat left side axle, also a few taps on the right side,
Go back and dbl ck the left side is seated.
Turn the adjuster ring on the right side until that axle has no end play.
Now back to the left side and make sure you have zero end play.
Back to the right side , back off the adjust ring 2 notchs an measure your end play if useing the dial indicator,
Depending on bearings ect, you may have to back off another notch. Put your lock pawl in and secure it with that last bolt.
If you do not have the dial once you feel movment in and out on the axle your to loose. Go back in a notch and try again.
Right at the point you loose movment stop. If the lock pawl hits a notch put it on. If not back off just enough to get it on.
Back around and dbl, check that left side, for zero play.
Now rotate the rear diff a few turns and recheck end play.
If all is still good fill the diff with your 80/90.
I try to be close to the .06 to .08 once you roll it or drive it will loosen up a bit.

R413 & 1967coronet are both 100% Spot on.... They need to start writing technical manuals.... Well Actually they both did the same thing I did when I got volentold to write a tech manual years ago... They covered all the technical stuff perfectly... But they didn't make safety first a priority...

 

[1967coronet]

R413 & 1967coronet are both 100% Spot on.... They need to start writing technical manuals.... Well Actually they both did the same thing I did when I got volentold to write a tech manual years ago... They covered all the technical stuff perfectly... But they didn't make safety first a priority...

Ok.... sniff 1st and wear protection.

 

[vsj100]

The end play should be .08 thou give or take a bit.
Dial indicator comes in handy, or you can do it without and be fine.
Back off the adjuster ring a few turns. Axles in and retain bolts tight except for the one that holds the ring locking pawl on the right side.
Dead blow hammer to seat left side axle, also a few taps on the right side,
Go back and dbl ck the left side is seated.
Turn the adjuster ring on the right side until that axle has no end play.
Now back to the left side and make sure you have zero end play.
Back to the right side , back off the adjust ring 2 notchs an measure your end play if useing the dial indicator,
Depending on bearings ect, you may have to back off another notch. Put your lock pawl in and secure it with that last bolt.
If you do not have the dial once you feel movment in and out on the axle your to loose. Go back in a notch and try again.
Right at the point you loose movment stop. If the lock pawl hits a notch put it on. If not back off just enough to get it on.
Back around and dbl, check that left side, for zero play.
Now rotate the rear diff a few turns and recheck end play.
If all is still good fill the diff with your 80/90.
I try to be close to the .06 to .08 once you roll it or drive it will loosen up a bit.

Thanks my non sure grip has no thrust button right? So I'll adjust the end play on both sides right?

 

[1 Wild R/T]

Thanks my non sure grip has no thrust button right? So I'll adjust the end play on both sides right?

No, there's only one adjuster... Instead of buttons the whole block floats and transfers endplay... Do exactly what 1967coronet suggests..

 

[vsj100]

All done and all good! Thanks!!!

 

[vsj100]

Here are a few bits that might be of interest -
The center block of the sure grip is slightly different than the open style. The sure grip has buttons on the center block and the non posi has no buttons, just a steel block. It was also quite a bit heavier.
During axle removal I noticed that whoever did the last switch did not reinstall the axle locks. I was going to make them but a local company, Rearend Specialists had 2 of them for $30.00. I put one on each side.
I packed the bearings and set them at .008" which I think is ok.
I had removed the horizontal parking brake arm to remove the axles and one of them fell of the lift and the spring went who knows where. I was on the verge of going to buy one but decided on one last search and it had bounced all the way forward to be right under the engine. I was very glad to find it.
Test drove it and no leaks and no bad noises!
Thank you all for the helpful tips.
Scott