Throwout bearings…longer, adjustable length? Any advice on where to buy?

First off…Thank you to all of the Vets and Active Duty Military out there. We know you did it and do it for us, not for some political idiots. And as the father of a deployed Marine, believe me, it strikes close to home. Ooorahh Sgt. Michael Hutton! You better come home safe.

Anyway, I finally got new Mcleod flywheel, clutch and a Lakewood bellhousing all mounted on my 440, and got the block plate cutout right for my 132 tooth flywheel and MSD mini starter so it mounts up and meshes correctly.

However…new throwout bearing that came with clutch is too short for my setup. My clutch fork is well past parallel to flywheel when throwout bearing face is touching clutch fingers and that is not going to work. As this is my first foray into running a scattershield, I kind of expected this issue, but was hoping to not have it happen. But it did.

I did a lot of searching, and find all kinds of different length bearings for chevys and fords. Even adjustable length bearings with removable spacers or threaded to change bearing length. Mcleod instructions even mention various bearing lengths (in a generic way). But I see none on their site for a 23 spline Mopar.

So I decided to turn to my expert friends…..please help? Thank you!

some setup information.....

[video]http://www.hurst-drivelines.com/files/Clutch_Linkage_Installation_Tips.pdf[/video]

Thank you for posting those Hurt set up tips! Most of them apply to just about any clutch, and are very helpful. But the ball stud set up on a GM is just not something I have the luxury of using and adjusting the pivot height with. My clutch linkage and all of it's pieces are new and matched set. And are exactly the same as original.

The issue is not the linkage at all. In fact, I have not bothered to even put in the linkage yet. When the fork angle is well past "0" before any linkage is installed, you have lost all of your mechanical advantage. It is simply the height of the pivot point for the clutch fork that I need to change….OR change the length of the throwout bearing. Only two options that my damaged mind can see.

But thank you again for taking the time to post the Hurst stuff!

Dean

Think I found exactly what I need….But if I am still lost, I will be back begging for your help some more!

Thanks

Something must be mismatched because the TO bearing and sleeve is pretty standard. Are you sure you have all the correct parts playing nicely with each other? How about the release fork pivot? I have an old Lakewood bell housing installed with a 10.5" clutch and it fits fine.

I have a american powertrain clutch, lakewood bell, scattershield which is about 6mm thick, and just installed the factory clutch back in, the fork sits at about "0" like your saying and it seems to work fine, the little bracket that the fork pivots off inside bellhousing is that the correct one? brewers have a pic of the exact one on there site

If your Lakewood is a three piece you could pull the cover and change or shim the pivot in vehicle. Make sure you use correct length bolts if you shim. Re-attachment of the fork is a pain.

How does the original "stack-up" of parts compare to the new set for dimension?
Stock bell depth should be 7.380". How deep is your Lakewood? Include the block saver if you have it.

Not sure if this wil lbe usefual at all:
When your clutch fork goes past 0 degrees, you don't actually lose mechanical advantage in terms of torque; the change is in the amount of throw needed, which will increase. At 10-15 degrees, it is a change of a few % on either.

What some folks find is that the fork has to 'wipe' across the face of where the fork contacts the TO bearing 'slot'. If this is not lubed, it can hang and add to the force required. It also can put some side loads on the TO tube.

If the angle is around 10-15 degrees disengaged, I would try to go with it. If past 20 degrees, yeah, that's a problem.

Thank you everybody! But when I said I had found exactly what I needed, it was that I discovered Lakewood had not included the new pivot for my clutch fork. I was trying to use the stock one. They sent one right away, and things are much better now. But I still wish I had a little more height at the pivot point. Or just a bit longer throwout bearing (which I did find options for too).

All dimensions are correct as far as bell depth and stack up. Been playing the 4 speed game for many decades. Actually have never had a Mopar with an automatic. But this one is my first ever Lakewood bellhousing. So I am learning.

Thank you again to everybody that chimed in! It makes having these cars a lot more fun. Huge cruise night in Golden, CO Saturday and then Mopar day at Bandimere Speedway Sunday. What a perfect weekend.

Just hoping my wife is feeling well enough to go. She has 9 chemo and radiation treatments to go. She will have had 25 total when done, so we are well past halfway. But damn this is a hard thing to watch and not be able to help. I just want to fix her, but that is way above my pay grade. Luckily I believe the One that is at that pay grade is watching out for her, cause I have never felt as useless as I do when she is having a horrible day.

Thank you guys!

Dean

We'll keep good thoughts for your wife and you, Dean. As one who's been there, tell her to stay strong. Ginger snaps and ginger ale helped me get through chemo. They help with the nausea.

All the best for your wife....that is a looong series. But I know a fellow whose wife is fine now after that and hope your wife does as well!

Thank you guys! I will tell her about the ginger ale. Anything that might help her nausea would be a Godsend. Poor girl. Tough, tough lady though. I know I would be a quivering pile by now. It is kicking her butt, but she just keeps motoring along.

Happy spring and summer to all!!