Torsion bar installation

When i install my new torsion bars do i have those adjusters slacked completely off then tighten them up a little at a time with front end off the ground? Really i should be asking how is it done ?

Yea I need to know too!

OK...I have to ask something here first you guys...Do either of you have a FSM...Factory Service Manual? That is the first thing to use when dealing with the removal and re-install of the torsion bars. It has all the tips and techniques for the proper way to do the job including getting and setting the "ride height" correctly. It isn't a tough job but requires attention to detail other wise you can really mess things up by not following the procedures within it. Don't ask me know I know this but I do. They are available in both printed and CD. Steve...to answer your question? Yes a little at a time is a good approach. However, after tightening the adjusters down some, drop the car off the jack or jack stands and give the front end a vicious bouncing up and down. This helps with setting the torsion bars to the spring rate required for the ride height you desire. But again the FSM has the distances and measurement points to get it where you want it. But keep measuring regardless as even eye balling it will work some, the correct height will help when it comes to the front end re-alignment that you both will inevitably have to do, Here is a link for service manuals to also help you out...

http://www.mymopar.com/index.php?pid=109

The link will give you PDF's of the manuals which you can also print and use to assist you. Hope this helps. Oh....Delfino...The guy I sold the harnesses to said no so again sorry for the mix up. Let me know if you would on the grill and any other items for your '66 project...cr8crshr/Tuck:headbang:

Ok, so I know you folks probably do this all the time....but I just figured a hum-dinger way of easing bars in and out......without a lot of the pain and suffering....

1. get a good sized pipe wrench
2. Affix it to the hex end of the control arm
3. Torque it toward you while tapping in the bar with the correct tool.

It gives you the ability to use a lever while tapping in the bar....so alignment can be adjusted the whole time....

******* amazing...

You should not use a pipe wrench on the torsion bars.
Never mind I see you say control arm.

Grandad’s ancient wrench.

A pipe wrench will mar the bar and cause stress risers then the bar will end up breaking. Which can cause injury or even death. Kim

oldkimmer said:

A pipe wrench will mar the bar and cause stress risers then the bar will end up breaking. Which can cause injury or even death. Kim

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Pretty sure you did not read my post sir

Assuming you only mean “in” not “out” so we’ll skip that.

Slack the screws pretty loose. Make sure you have the left bar on the left and right on right. Slide it in from the rear. Make sure you remember the dust boot. Grease both ends. When the front end makes it to the control arm line it up. Tap it from the rear with a hammer. Once it’s flush use a socket and drive it all the way in. Put the little clip in. Stretch the boot over the mount. Wind up the adjustment bolts close to where the dust marks are from the last time. Put the front end on the ground (good and level like a garage floor). Tighten them alternately to get the right height. Note that the factory heights had the nose up a fair amount. Remember the nose of the Challenger in Vanishing point? Like that.
Here’s the FSM stuff from a ‘64 Plymouth. Didn’t change appreciably after that.

Great detail !!!

Durandal25 said:

Pretty sure you did not read my post sir

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Sorry, I misread it but and I missed the fact that u said hex end of the control arm. Kim