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starting 64 b body restoration

mopargeek

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Does anyone have any advice or knowledge of floor pan replacement? Car is leveled on jack stands with suspension hanging just off garage floor. Body is just about a shell, i need to remove a few more items and it`s ready. But before i start cutting is any bracing needed to support body? Should i rehang doors, check gaps/ alignment etc.. Also i was thinking of having body and panels blasted during this process? Any help would be appreciated?
 
When I did my 63 I only had to do the front pans and the tunnel was ok so I didn't have to brace anything I just did one side at a time but I did it with the suspension loaded. If i were to remove the whole floor I would be inclined to weld in some braces to err on the side of caution. Just my 2 cents worth.
 
Thanks for the info, I'am going to replace the whole floor so I believe I'll take the time to brace up the body some before I begin. I agree it's best to be safe.
 
Before cutting anything out on the floor, spend some time 'under' the car. There's braces under the floor you'll need in place, and where they are located. They are also added attach places for the floor pans. Just plan things out.
 
I'd worry more about cutting rear 1/4s and wheel houses moving it than the floor.
Doug
 
Doug, Miller,
I guess it depends what shape the rockers are in?
Would there be much movement when the inner fenders are separated from the firewall, sitting on its wheels if the floor is bad, or not? I was thinking about the stress on the frame rails, pivoting below the floor/firewall if the inner fenders were separated and the floor was questionable.
Sorry, not trying to highjack this thread Mopargeek.
 
Don't think there would be much issue on the inner fenders. Think main thing would be supporting the frame itself, on solid surface. Frame, front and aft, and main body shell are so-called unibody, so should be fairly good, as long as it's kept together.

Problems with the inners?

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For what it's worth...I had to replace my full '64 floor pan, using front/rear pans. Time to get a good spot weld cutter!

I studied how the pan was originally put in, and put the new pans in same way. Drilled small pilot holes through each, lol, spot weld, then used the cutter, only on top plate. Once all done, pans out, clean up the mess.
Only 'spot' welded new pans in, using the pilot holes as guides. Finished by using original type seam sealer, like the factory used.

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Something else I just remembered. Before any welding was done, I lined up the pans as wanted (I went wall-to-wall), and used #12 sheet metal screws, to lock it all into place. Then started spot welding. Worked for me, and kept it all in place. Easy enough to pull those screws, and plug the holes, after pans were tacked in.
 
Appreciate the feedback and detail of your projects. Getting real close to start my floorpan replacement. Door sills /frame rails seem to be in good shape. Looks like most of the damage was caused by water coming in from wiper pivot holes and finding it's way to the front floor area. One rear section by poor quarter window seal. Have new spot weld cutter kit as well as sheet metal screws.
 
I transfered spot weld hole locations to the new pans. Keeping hole sizes small, simply filled the holes, since 'real' spot welder was out of hand.

Using screws like I did, helped alot to pull the pans into place, and on the welding itself. Personally, I did first welding in the middle, working to the outer edges, and skipped 6 holes each weld, to keep the heat down in each area.
 
If youre thinking of using an AMD floor pan FYI they are out of stock and wont be reproducing anymore for 6 months.I searched all over and found two at Kramers, they now have ONE left so good luck with that
 
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