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Ballast resister argument on another site .

mopar_man

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I'm a new mopar maniac to this site but been a lurker for ever and have wrenched Mopars for over 50 yrs . I got into a discussion with a couple of know- it- alls on another site about how their car will start (with the key in the start position) even when you pull the wire off the ballast resister. I know for sure that when a ballast resister is burnt out, the car will start when the key is in the start position and shut off when the key returns to the run position. They were adamant that theirs cars wouldn't start (start pos.) in any position . I said it will and one guy even went out in his garage and tried his car and came back and said his car didn't make an offer in any key position. I told him something he had other problems . Anyway the two guys , who sounded like they were very knowledgeable about Mopars called me out and said I knew nothing about what I was talking about . I begin to think I was loosing it so I went and checked several of my mopar friends cars which had the single ballast and they all started . Is it time for me to give this stuff up? I was only trying to help another member out who had starting problems. Your opinion please .
 
Over the years...I've had them run while cranking...had them not...never bothered to find out why..oor cared to. I just know that if I can't afford an MSD setup,if my car won't start,out of the blue,I start at the ballast
 
If you want to have a leaky coil, then by all means keep starting/running it that way. Unless you have a coil can can take 12V. The original coils can only take 9V I think, hence is why you need the BR to drop the voltage.

As far as starting goes. It can but depends on how your coil holds up.
 
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I know for sure that is the case on Chevy stuff, '60's points ignition. There's literally two wires to the starter solenoid, the ignition switch sends the 12V power.

I would take your position as well but I don't have any first hand experience like that on a Mopar.... Yet.
 
Be it here or any other site getting into an argument with someone is pretty much a lesson in frustration. This site is better than the others as help is more often given.
 
I got into a discussion with a couple of know- it- alls on another site about how their car will start (with the key in the start position) even when you pull the wire off the ballast resister.
I think that will depend on which wire you pull. Pull the single blue wire and it will start in the bypass mode through the blue/brown wires, but stall upon release of the key to the run position. Likewise, if the ballast resistor is burned, it will, as you say, start in the bypass mode and stall when the key is released.

I said it will and one guy even went out in his garage and tried his car and came back and said his car didn't make an offer in any key position. I told him something he had other problems .
As you said, something else is in play here.
 
Would depend upon year of production. Any thing older than 66 maybe not. 66 to leanburn should if someone has not messed with the wiring. Everything in that age group starts on 12 volts and runs on 6 to the coil if still factory.
 
Be it here or any other site getting into an argument with someone is pretty much a lesson in frustration. This site is better than the others as help is more often given.
Agreed.
I've been on the internet since even before there was an internet (anyone else remember BBS?) and I've fooled around with Mopars since high school (late 70's).
Two things have been constants over that time:
1. The net is full of folks who like to debate, even when they're wrong
2. You don't "win" anything, even if you do wind up winning the argument
What's the point, really?
 
Agreed.
I've been on the internet since even before there was an internet (anyone else remember BBS?) and I've fooled around with Mopars since high school (late 70's).
Two things have been constants over that time:
1. The net is full of folks who like to debate, even when they're wrong
2. You don't "win" anything, even if you do wind up winning the argument
What's the point, really?
And I agree 100% too but when you are telling some new person how to do something and you're called out on it knowing full well you are correct, do I just let it be and forget about helping the new guy ?
 
Hi mopar_man. It really doesn't matter, because a new guy likely would be confused by the discussion and therefore would research further and come to his own conclusions. Don't worry about know it alls!
PS, good to see you posting!
 
Utterly amazing the expert opinions of those whom never work on thier own vechicals, never taken an automotive course but still know it all just because someone told them it was that way.
This is also why alot of people get taken by unscrupulous auto dealership and repair shops.
This is why many times it is asked if the person asking a question has the factory service manual. It should be the first source of information. It would be great to have access to the factory service bulletins sent to dealerships as they would answer many questions not covered in the FSM.
 
And I agree 100% too but when you are telling some new person how to do something and you're called out on it knowing full well you are correct, do I just let it be and forget about helping the new guy ?
Naw, but I typically do find something tangible to support my position and use it to prove the point, though, rather than just banter back and forth with others.
In this particular case, for example, the factory service manual would support your claim rather quickly.
Present such substantiation and bam, case closed. :)
 
The funny thing about this is there is an engineering document (FSM wiring diagram) and 250+ (Ben Franklin) years of scientific study that clearly defines the function of a ballast resistor in an old Mopar. Keep in mind that most people do not have a good grasp on the basic laws of electricity beyond respecting polarity.
 
Mopar man, your experience is my experience, I am 66yrs old and all I have had will run with the key in start pos. if the resistor is cooked, and will die when the key is released to the run pos. I have for years carried a spare resistor in the glove box, or a four inch jumper wire to get me somewhere to get a resistor. as far as the argument goes, you are 100% RIGHT. PWDave PS(58dodge,68RR,67GTX,68GTX,64PLY,383,440,440,426-H,440, 509rb)
 
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