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Efi

I have an earlier build Edelbrock ProFlo EFI system on my '72 Roadrunner 505 big block. It is not as tunable as the newer systems are, but I love it. I can't say it gave me more power over the big Holley carb it replaced, but it is definitely more drivable. It starts right up in any weather, idles smooth, and has instant throttle response. I imagint the ProFlo 2 and other newer systems are even better, and as you said, they are a lot less expensive now.
 
It was either the excuse of fat fingers or having 1 eye, I chose fat fingers but could've used the auto correct function as an excuse also. Lol!
 
I installed the FiTech TBI on my 440 Coronet in June. Because the ECU is built into the TB the wiring is very straightforward. Carefully locate where to mount the o2 sensor; on my car with headers it's plumbed into the collector and extends very close to the torsion bar.
From everything I've read from rodders who have used other brands, it seems the FiTech needs more tuning once installed. I also installed their Fuel Command Center so the PWM had to be adjusted, the IAC steps lowered to cure a hot start issue, played around with idle and accel levels. I still don't feel like it's completely dialed in.

I have a Dart with a 360, Eddy carb. It's going to stay my around town driver and the Coronet will be the long distance cruiser so the carb will stay on the Dart.
 
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Tech support with FiTech is very good. They will respond via email or phone. They are actually happy to help you. Impressive, that alone is invaluable.

Side note: their air cleaner post is 5/16 by 18 so a standard air cleaner rod will not work unless you get an adapter. Also if you adjust your timing, you will need to adjust your IAC again.

I locked out the distributor and used MSD adjustable cap to phase the rotor cap. Pretty simple, just drill a hole in the cap. I used white paper correction fluid to color the end of the metal so I could see it easily with the timing light. 2500 -3000 is best for adjustment. Then you need to sync the distributor to your handheld device.
Then recheck your IAC steps again. If it is too high, turn CW to bring it down to around 0 then CCW to get it back to around 6-10 or even 12 if you have a wild cam. After you get the IAC set, check your target IDLE. if it is off, then while the motor is running turn the phillips screw in the front of carb CCW or CW to get your target IDLE.

IAC Steps:

Turn the driver’s side throttle adjustment screw IN (clockwise) half a turn to start with, with that done turn the key on and go to dashboard and find TPS and make sure it reads zero. If not, then shut the key off and wait for the numbers to go black then turn the key on again. Once that reads zero start the vehicle and find IAC Steps on dashboard. This number needs to be within 3-10 at warm idle. If the number reads zero then slowly turn the screw OUT (counter clockwise) until the IAC steps reads between 3-10. If the number is above 10 then shut the vehicle off and turn the screw IN as stated above and repeat the process until the IAC steps are between 3-10.

The tech support said I got extremely far with the setup before I made the call to fine tune the setup. So, it is easy and the YOUTUBE videos are worth watching. GET everything you need BEFORE you start your install so you don't wait around for parts. Lay it all out, write your plan down, make a damn DRAWING on where it all goes.
You will be surprised like I did; what I forgot and didn't get. Going back and forth to the performance shop just wastes time.

I used the Lokar throttle cable which works great for my 69 Plymouth GTX. So, today is go and drive this new setup and see how it performs to my old Weiand Super stock intake and 6 pack vacuum pods setup.
 
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I'm pretty sure that I'm going to try EFI after I have bodywork done this winter, can't afford both! I'm debating between FiTECH or the Holley Sniper. Both seem easy to install, easy to program and are reasonably priced. Just the though of better fuel mileage and easy hot starts make it worth it.
 
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