• When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.

Cure my hotstart issue?..318/Edelbrock 1406

J

Jordan L

Member
Local time
6:42 PM
Joined
Dec 18, 2017
Messages
15
Reaction score
13
Location
SF Bay Area
Hello,

I just picked up a new to me 68 coronet with it's factory 318. She runs great but it's experiencing a hot start issue. The car turns over strong when cold, or even when its warm but I have to turn the car back on within a few mins or so. If I try to start the engine after 30mins-1 hr, it will just crank like its flooded. I have to wait until the engine cools before starting her back up and taking off. Sounds like a typical hot start issue/carb heat soak, which after research is common for edelbrocks.

The car already has a one inch spacer, and looks to me like a thermal gasket as well

My "plan of attack" was to install a new clear fuel line, with a inline fuel pressure regular/gauge and make sure it's getting 5.5 psi. According to the edelbrock manual, thats what they like to run. I will try and route it away from the "valley" of the motor as well. Do you guys recommend thermal jacket on the fuel lines? What is the factory manual fuel pump PSI?

Then check the carb floats to make sure they are in spec according to the manual.

Is it worth it to change my metal spacer to phenolic?

Please let me know if you guys have had similar experience and solutions, i'd like to get her up to DD shape as soon as possible.

Thanks


IMG_3450.jpg
IMG_3448.jpg
IMG_3466.jpg
IMG_3467.jpg
 
Welcome to 2017 EFI formulated gas in a carburetor :). I put FiTech EFI on my 318 so I don't have to deal with this. I have seen guys put in fuel pumps and returns to keep the fuel circulating so it pushing cooler fuel up to the carb when you turn the key on.
 
Try installing a phenolic spacer under the carb.
 
Install a hand pump primer bulb like used on a boat fuel tank in the fuel line to the carb. Pump it up whenever your ready to start it up. The next step would be an electric fuel pump.
 
First off check to make sure your choke is set properly. After its sat for 30 mins, have you looked down the carb while operating the throttle to make sure there's gas coming out of the accelerator nozzle? Is the carb hot to the touch? Same goes for the fuel line from fuel pump is it really warm to the touch? I had problems yrs ago with a 75 Datsun 280Z F.I. engine once it got hot, heat soak would set in and it would not start, this was pre ethanol days. I wound up using spark plug wire heat wrap and proceeded to wrap the fuel lines. I lucked out no more hot start problems.
Kinda hard to tell but it looks like your carb spacer is metal. If so you might want to ditch it like 69 GTX mentioned and get a phenolic or wood spacer.
If you have acces to an ir temp gun, tske temp reading of carb body after its sat for 30 mins and let us know what you have.
Good luck
 
Learn to live with it, I have a E-brock as will as a Weber on a /6 and I have the same issues. Either don't let it sit so long or wait longer till re-start, or treat it like a flooded condition. Even then it/you'll be doing a lot of cranking. Good Luck
 
Phenolic spacer, make sure choke is open all the way(hot), check float level. Then we go from there.
 
I had a similar problem with my Edelbrock 1411 when I got the car. What helped me was adding an extra gasket for additional insulation, getting the choke adjusted correctly and mostly, adding a fan shroud and changing the thermostat from the factory 190 to a 180. She's still a bit finicky on a hot start, but always starts.

That said, I'm not sure if this is an Edelbrock issue or just the nature of the beast.
 
Yeah it’s the nature of this wonderful petroleum product we have thrust on us now.
 
I agree with these guys. A phenolic (or other non-metal) spacer is a REALLY good idea. Also, when it's cranking/not starting once warmed up & it sat....make SURE to pop the hood, take off the air cleaner & look down the throat of the carburetor while you move the throttle a few times by hand.

IF you have "vapor lock" then the carburetor will be dry and you won't see any "squirt" of fuel in the carburetor. The phenolic spacer & making sure you don't have fuel line(s) running too close to the exhaust will fix your problem.

IF you do see fuel squirting like normal, my 2nd guess would be a borderline ignition control module. I've seen those start to act "squirrely" when they're getting close to going out & get hot. "Sometimes" you can see some oily "goo" on the back side of them too when they're getting close to going out.
 
Eddy carbs are prone to cracking the main body and allowing the fuel to leak into the engine when you shut down. Typical Eddy problem.
I see it looks as tho you have the distributor vacuum line hooked to ported, you don't have enough idle timing in the motor when you have it connected that way. The un-burned fuel in the motor blow torches the head and transfers all that heat to the intake manifold which further complicates your issues.

What are your timing events?

Static timing (No vac connected at Idle)
Total timing?
What RPM does it come fully advanced (No Vac)
When you connect the vac line to the constant port at idle where does the timing come up to?

Edelbrock%20port%20ID.jpg

Check out this new updated image from Eddy, notice how they specify drivers side port for NON-EMISSIONS applications
 
oldbee said:
Phenolic spacer, make sure choke is open all the way(hot), check float level. Then we go from there.
Click to expand...

Yes, yes, yes. I will also say wrap the fuel lines with heat shield tape.

Fuel is either boiling in the carb or vaporizing in the lines. If the above doesn't work, think about a filter with vapor return barb.
 
Quote: Fuel is either boiling in the carb or vaporizing in the lines. If the above doesn't work, think about a filter with vapor return barb.

Yes but why? There's band aids that you can try but it really comes down to the timing events that are causing the issue. The damage to the main body of the carb has been done, that can't be fixed. Getting the distributor/ignition system set up correctly to burn this camel spit they claim is gasoline in these old Iron motors is a necessity.
It amazes me how guys will spend $1000 on tires and wheels and spend hours polishing their classics to make them look great and won't take an hour and $219 to set up their ignition system properly with design and technology from this century so it runs as good as it looks.
Any reputable engine builder will tell you that the longevity of your engine is directly related to your tune-up and maintenance program.
 
Jordan, I noticed on your other post about the freeze plug problem, your pic shows the fuel filter and fuel line. It looks like your metal fuel filter is resting on the metal rocker arm cover.....not good. The filter will heat soak from the hot rocker arm cover and boil fuel. Try and get some distance between the two that might help your situation out a little.
 
Do you guys have a recommendation on which spacer to use that will fit the 318 and edelbrock 1406?

im seeing heat insulators, wood, and phenoloic,

Airhorn gasket is what I need if im going to take the top off the carb to check the float correct?
 
Last edited:
Why not just get the timing right????? and fix it not patch it?
 
I always liked phenolic, air horn gskt is for air clnr to carb.
 
Don Gould said:
Quote: Fuel is either boiling in the carb or vaporizing in the lines. If the above doesn't work, think about a filter with vapor return barb.

Yes but why? There's band aids that you can try but it really comes down to the timing events that are causing the issue. The damage to the main body of the carb has been done, that can't be fixed. Getting the distributor/ignition system set up correctly to burn this camel spit they claim is gasoline in these old Iron motors is a necessity.
It amazes me how guys will spend $1000 on tires and wheels and spend hours polishing their classics to make them look great and won't take an hour and $219 to set up their ignition system properly with design and technology from this century so it runs as good as it looks.
Any reputable engine builder will tell you that the longevity of your engine is directly related to your tune-up and maintenance program.
Click to expand...

Why? Because the fuel boils at a lower temp and everything from the lines to to carb add heat to the fuel depending how far they are from the get-hot goodies. The Eddy is one piece base and huge heat sink to absorb heat. It doesn't have to be timing that causes it. I have 2 cars with Eddy carbs, both are timed and tuned correctly and have plenty of advance. Without the spacer and fuel line mods they would percolate fuel in the bowls.

I do see that it can be a related cause and I am curious as to what his timing is at the moment.

And as for spacers.... 1/2" phenolic is what I use. If your manifold has 4 bores for the carb use something like this.....https://www.summitracing.com/parts/ctr-85-152/overview/ . The open type spacer is good for single plane manifolds.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

1967 satellite
Is a Edelbrock 1406 are good carb?
2
Replies
38
Views
3K
Rev. Mopar
R
HAHNAGON
EDELBROCK CARBURETOR fuel sitting on secondary boosters ... wet secondaries?
Replies
10
Views
909
Dragon Slayer
D
Timmayy
Newest issue with my 65 Belvedere. This thing is possessed
Replies
5
Views
612
Darter6
Darter6
Tony 70GTX
Carter AVS 4737 4BBL 1970 440 GTX
Replies
10
Views
1K
RJRENTON
RJRENTON
Chargerjase
Disaster - Major Fuel Tank Issue
2 3
Replies
50
Views
3K
Chargerjase
Chargerjase
Auto Transport Service
Back
Top