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Oil

IMHO, it’s more important to have a lot of cycles of moderate power & long coasting cycles to let rings seat. Otherwise, no more than 1000miles.
 
khryslerkid said:
But do the rings really get seated on a dyno. I've always been taught you need to get a fair amount of back pressure on them like letting off the gas on long hills ect. I dumped my break in oil right after the 20 min cam break in. Then changed it and the filter. Refilled with new break in 30w and was shooting for 500 miles before going to a Penn Grade 10w 40w or 20w 50w partial synthetic.
Click to expand...
I’m thinking it’s more vacuum from coasting, because the rings kinda pull out from the Pistons.
 
oldbee said:
I’m thinking it’s more vacuum from coasting, because the rings kinda pull out from the Pistons.
Click to expand...
That and I guess you're working things from the opposite direction.

I haven't been useing any oil, no smoke at all. I'm real close to 500 miles and that was my goal before changing to a partial synthetic. I'm just undecided between 10w 40w and 20w 50w. I always liked the 20w 50w in my performance engines, even the Harleys. Always loved how Kendal preformed, thats why I'm using Penn Grade.
 
khryslerkid said:
That and I guess you're working things from the opposite direction.

I haven't been useing any oil, no smoke at all. I'm real close to 500 miles and that was my goal before changing to a partial synthetic. I'm just undecided between 10w 40w and 20w 50w. I always liked the 20w 50w in my performance engines, even the Harleys. Always loved how Kendal preformed, thats why I'm using Penn Grade.
Click to expand...
With no real knowledge to speak of, I’m still learry of any(?) synthetic before 5k or so. Seen too many cyl.bores with over 10-15k on them with a lot of cross hatching still there. Could be wrong/probably am.
 
I've always ran 10W30 in all of mine but use quality oil. I'm running Schaeffer's right now that's formulated for flat tappet cams, I loose almost no pressure after warm up (about 60psi).
 
I used brad penn and a additive to break in my cam. I now use VR1 20 50 and a bottle of comp engine break in additive and have no problems.
 
There in lies my problem/question. The break in oil in my 470 with a melling hv pump is just under 20psi hot idle. I would like to see 25psi so I’ve been researching the Shell Rotella T4 15w40 and it has 1200ppm in zinc. That should bring the pressure up a tad to what I’m looking for?
 
5.7 hemi said:
There in lies my problem/question. The break in oil in my 470 with a melling hv pump is just under 20psi hot idle. I would like to see 25psi so I’ve been researching the Shell Rotella T4 15w40 and it has 1200ppm in zinc. That should bring the pressure up a tad to what I’m looking for?
Click to expand...

It's worth a try.
 
67440chrg said:
I used brad penn and a additive to break in my cam. I now use VR1 20 50 and a bottle of comp engine break in additive and have no problems.
Click to expand...

This is one thing I was told not to do, add additive. If the oil is already formulated with the proper amount of zinc, adding more changes the properties in the formula and might do more harm than good. Check with the manufacturer first.
 
5.7 hemi said:
There in lies my problem/question. The break in oil in my 470 with a melling hv pump is just under 20psi hot idle. I would like to see 25psi so I’ve been researching the Shell Rotella T4 15w40 and it has 1200ppm in zinc. That should bring the pressure up a tad to what I’m looking for?
Click to expand...
I spent high school & later at a Shell station and still remember putting new VC gaskets on a police car with over 50k miles on it and still seeing paint splotches on valve springs. Nothing but Rotella ran thru it; still like that stuff!
 
I’ve read nothing but great things about the Rotella. I’m seriously leaning towards it, price is really good too!
 
Larry Shepard has been building Hemi;s for 50 years. He rebuilt mine in my 1967 GTX. The bearing clearances are between .002-.003. He dynos all rebuilds and he recommends usinf only Pennzoil 25w50 racing oil all the time. I haveen using that as he recommends for almost five years with no problems at.
 
I did find a post from Shell that stated they haven’t changed the zinc content and that it’s at 1200ppm. That was from a year ago. Guess it wouldn’t hurt to call and double check.
 
5.7 hemi said:
There in lies my problem/question. The break in oil in my 470 with a melling hv pump is just under 20psi hot idle. I would like to see 25psi so I’ve been researching the Shell Rotella T4 15w40 and it has 1200ppm in zinc. That should bring the pressure up a tad to what I’m looking for?
Click to expand...
interesting: Same as mine about 20ish around idle at "1150" , 40-45- hot hiway cruising, 90 95 on cold start up. OIL PRESSURE ON THE BIG BLOCK IS READ (COMING) OFF THE REAR OF THE BLOCK, AFTER MOST CRITICAL AREAS ARE FED, EXCEPT THE DRIVERS SIDE LIFTER GALLEY.
Excuse the caps-----
I run 10-40 below 60* , 20-50 above . urs may vary--LOL
 
not so famous bob said:
interesting: Same as mine about 20ish around idle at "1150" , 40-45- hot hiway cruising, 90 95 on cold start up. OIL PRESSURE ON THE BIG BLOCK IS READ (COMING) OFF THE REAR OF THE BLOCK, AFTER MOST CRITICAL AREAS ARE FED, EXCEPT THE DRIVERS SIDE LIFTER GALLEY.
Excuse the caps-----
I run 10-40 below 60* , 20-50 above . urs may vary--LOL
Click to expand...

I've started with the original Kendall GT1 back in the late 70's,when the refinery was sold to Brad Penn the oil quality didn't change, (same oil) The Kendall name was purchased by Conco-Phillips in TX,they retained the Kendall GT 1 brand name but the oil was not the original GT 1/Brad Penn.I continued and still use the Brad Penn in both cars.I run 20-50 all year round never had an issue.The bird has 65 psi at idle,a little over 80 psi at highway speed,I know it's a little high but never had any issues.The wagon runs approximately 10 lb less both at idle and at highway speed so they will stay as they are.
Attached is an analysis of Brad Penn that I had done in 2008,I had it done last year and still the same,you can compare the zinc content with other brands if you choose.
Picture 623-001.jpg
 
Last edited:
khryslerkid said:
But do the rings really get seated on a dyno. I've always been taught you need to get a fair amount of back pressure on them like letting off the gas on long hills ect. I dumped my break in oil right after the 20 min cam break in. Then changed it and the filter. Refilled with new break in 30w and was shooting for 500 miles before going to a Penn Grade 10w 40w or 20w 50w partial synthetic.
Click to expand...
Heavy loading would allow cylinder pressure into the top of the ring land and apply that pressure against the backside of the ring pushing it against the cylinder wall to help seat the ring to the cylinder.

Deceleration would create a heavy vacuum in the cylinder pulling oil up through the crosshatch/ring cooling and lubricating the rings. That's why you want both during break-in as to not anneal the rings from the crazy friction involved during break-in.

I had a retired Rockwell aviation welder turned engine machinist/builder by the name of Terry Neer explain this to me many years back and he had some wild KB engines in his shop for machine work so I listened.
 
62MAX said:
I've started with the original Kendall GT1 back in the late 70's,when the refinery was sold to Brad Penn the oil quality didn't change, (same oil) The Kendall name was purchased by Conco-Phillips in TX,they retained the Kendall GT 1 brand name but the oil was not the original GT 1/Brad Penn.I continued and still use the Brad Penn in both cars.I run 20-50 all year round never had an issue.The bird has 65 psi at idle,a little over 80 psi at highway speed,I know it's a little high but never had any issues.The wagon runs approximately 10 lb less both at idle and at highway speed so they will stay as they are.
Attached is an analysis of Brad Penn that I had done in 2008,I had it done last year and still the same,you can compare the zinc content with other brands if you choose.View attachment 677981
Click to expand...

Thanks for that info. You know Brad Penn is Penn Grade now. I talked with one of their head techs and he told me it's still the same formula as Kendall was. I always liked Kendall and I've been useing the Penn Grade.
 
Napa gold filter and Brad Penn 20 w 50 have always used it in every engine never an issue .
 
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