2 Problems solved, then 2 new appears.....

__Larsson____ · Jun 22, 2019

Okey so this is whats happening, fixed the brakes with new mastercylinder on my Charger and changed the leaking radiator.

Drove out for the first time from the garage and took it for a short test drive like 50 meters andr returned to the garage, checked the oil level in the transsmisson , turned it of and added som more, started the car and then it died....... now sign of life at all. I have not a original electrical system in the car, it was made here in sweden. The cause of the car died was a "head fues" on the big wire that comes from the battery and gose to the starterrelay.

I have also changed the alternator to a 100A ONE Wire alternator.

Any ideas?

oldbee · Jun 22, 2019

Wow, pull all your fuses, look for any other wires melted. Put new head(?)fuse in, turn key on; if new fuse stays ok then add one fused circuit at a time. May need more info.

Cranky · Jun 22, 2019

The fusible link blew out?

oldbee · Jun 22, 2019

Cranky said:
The fusible link blew out?

Language barrier probably (?) paternal side of family came from Nordic area, gotta help if I can!

steve340 · Jun 22, 2019

Did you route that alternator charging feed direct to the battery?
If not you send 100 amps through the standard dash wiring and amp meter - something will burn out.

Maxrat · Jun 22, 2019

Cranky said:
The fusible link blew out?

I was thinking the same thing

__Larsson____ · Jun 23, 2019

Okey i have now put in a new wire from the alternator to the battery. And i disconected the old one and now all seems to work fine.... BUT now low oilpressure...........

steve340 · Jun 23, 2019

Put a mechanical gauge in the engine and check it that way to be sure.
If your gauge was the standard one in the dash perhaps it was damaged by all that power going in to the dash wiring?

Shorthorse · Jun 23, 2019

steve340 said:
Put a mechanical gauge in the engine and check it that way to be sure.
If your gauge was the standard one in the dash perhaps it was damaged by all that power going in to the dash wiring?

Steve, not to nitpick but at some point Larsson had a major short which caused the fusible to go open. The alternator size was not the cause. Amps are a measurement of consumption, not a measurement of pressure. Any device draws only the amps it needs to operate. The alternator responds in kind. If that device is defective or has a bad connection then it will draw more amps than normal up and to the limit of its fuse. You could put a 1000 amp alternator on a car but it will only respond to the demand of its devices. Think of it this way. A typical car battery which is common to all devices in a car has a standing capacity of lets say, 500-900 cranking amps. Those amps aren't being pushed into the cars electrical system when to turn the ignition switch on.

__Larsson____ · Jun 23, 2019

steve340 said:
Put a mechanical gauge in the engine and check it that way to be sure.
If your gauge was the standard one in the dash perhaps it was damaged by all that power going in to the dash wiring?

I dont have the original, i have a kit from DAKOTA DIGITAL =P I showed 14PSI at the lowest on idle, but i think it maybe the carburetor cause the idle gets lower and lower when getting hot, like 400 rpm when i showed 14 PSI

steve340 · Jun 23, 2019

Did it always read that low or only after the wiring issue? I was wondering if the short caused a voltage spike or a backfeed that damaged other components of the instrument panel.
My 440 has about 30 psi at idle hot.
At the end of the day you need to make sure you have enough oil pressure or your engine may fail.

Cranky · Jun 23, 2019

__Larsson____ said:
I dont have the original, i have a kit from DAKOTA DIGITAL =P I showed 14PSI at the lowest on idle, but i think it maybe the carburetor cause the idle gets lower and lower when getting hot, like 400 rpm when i showed 14 PSI

steve340 said:
Did it always read that low or only after the wiring issue? I was wondering if the short caused a voltage spike or a backfeed that damaged other components of the instrument panel.
My 440 has about 30 psi at idle hot.
At the end of the day you need to make sure you have enough oil pressure or your engine may fail.

It's barely running at 400rpm so yeah, it could show low PSI on the gauge.....so, don't let it run that slow because not only is PSI low but so is flow and very low flow means the top end usually suffers the most.

MarPar · Jun 23, 2019

Dont you just love old cars lol

2 Problems solved, then 2 new appears.....

Larsson__

Well-Known Member

oldbee

Well-Known Member

Cranky

Banned Henchman #27

oldbee

Well-Known Member

steve340

Well-Known Member

Maxrat

Well-Known Member

Larsson__

Well-Known Member

steve340

Well-Known Member

Shorthorse

Well-Known Member

Larsson__

Well-Known Member

steve340

Well-Known Member

Cranky

Banned Henchman #27

MarPar

If it weighs, it pays

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