• When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.

Camshaft Install - how tight is too tight?

I agree with everything you guys are saying! Sounds like the Lisle 18000 isn't
the right tool for the job! Your mandrel has to be the size of the finished bore
for it to work right. (with no re-work) The cone on the installer keeps the bores
straight. If one is in a little crooked that's a problem. If you put a burr on one,
that's a problem, and if the cam has a bend in it out-of-the-box, that's a big
problem. Giving it a "Wahck" with a dead blow on the high spot will usually
do the trick. Expandable mandrels are for the birds. They sacrifice accuracy for
size compatibility. Glad Cranky made the comment about checking the runout
right out-of-the-box. If you think you have a hi spot and scrape it and then
find out it's a bent bumpstick, you're out another set of bearings and your time.
 
Or better yet block and oil externally from the rear of the block to the rear of the heads into the rocker stand
get as much oil to the mains and rods as possible
 
I'm a little late to the comments, but good topic...In the '80s I worked in a local speed shop in my town. We did all machine work in-house. As one can imagine 90% of our work was sbc's. Must say they were pretty straightforward. I guess I've mellowed out a bit thru the years (I'm 60 now) but back then I was DIE-HARD Mopar guy. Was even lucky enough to have a couple of elephants come thru the door for rebuilds. Man when I think back to those days Hemis were rare THEN. Of course whenever a Mopar came thru the door it came to me. And I sure remember installing cam bearings in these things. We had the standard installation tool lots of us now have at home (wow how times have changed), and yes, in the small and big blocks they at times were a pain in the rump. Almost always had to use a bearing scraper. Most all the time success was achieved when I took my time and made damn sure the bearing was going in slow and straight. Never had a problem after scraping one or two of them, if needed. Also had a guy bring in a Racer Brown SSH-25 cam from an engine he hauled in from an auto wrecker's core. Damn thing wouldn't slide into his freshly-prepped block no-how. I set it up in v-blocks to find the cam had .010" runout at the center cam journal. Guy said "straighten it". Ok, so I laid it on the bench with the first and fifth journals propped up on top of a couple of 2x4's, and walloped it a few times with a soft dead-blow hammer, expecting it to break right in the middle. It didn't, and after a few smacks that bastard slid right in. It didn't always work that easy; at times it would take considerable effort to turn the cam by hand even after "finessing" the bearings a bit, but I learned the cam bearings were pretty forgiving.
 
Seems abusive to hit engine parts with hammers on assembly but it is sometimes necessary.
 
Funny to hear the hammer fine tuning. My stepdad was a dealership mechanic late 50s early 60s.
and told about many straight /inline 6 engines had their cranks and main caps/bearings fine tuned / fitted with the bfh.
 
For what its worth, when I build a fresh big block, I like 38 ft lbs (or less) to turn over motor or I figure there's a problem
 
#4 was tight on my 440 as well.
Instead of scraping the bearing, I had the cam journel polished.

Cam spun very nicely when reinstalled.
 
ran into the same problem. new Hughes cam, 383 block, new clevite bearings. old cam slipped in but won't spin by hand, installed new cam and stuck at bearing #3.

Thinking of polishing the cam journals as well - rather than scraping the bearings. Bearing surface is usually coated, by scraping them I would pretty much remove the coating..
 
#4 is usually tight
THE BOOK IS WRONG b .001
polishing is ok but you will have to scrape
 
El.Padrino said:
ran into the same problem. new Hughes cam, 383 block, new clevite bearings. old cam slipped in but won't spin by hand, installed new cam and stuck at bearing #3.

Thinking of polishing the cam journals as well - rather than scraping the bearings. Bearing surface is usually coated, by scraping them I would pretty much remove the coating..
Click to expand...
Did you read all the posts in this thread especially the ones about the universal cam bearing installation tool used? Was the cam checked for straight? In another post it was mentioned that all cams should be checked. A cam that's not straight can be straightened if they are not out too much. Billet cams usually can be if out a lot but they are usually pretty dang straight.
 
Cranky said:
Did you read all the posts in this thread especially the ones about the universal cam bearing installation tool used? Was the cam checked for straight? In another post it was mentioned that all cams should be checked. A cam that's not straight can be straightened if they are not out too much. Billet cams usually can be if out a lot but they are usually pretty dang straight.
Click to expand...

Yes I did. Will check both cams for straightness of course. I am afraid of smacking on the new cam with a hammer. Not a precise job.
Any experiences with Hughes cam on straightness (flat tappet)?
 
Been using the Lisle tool for years. I just used it Saturday. Cam slid right in. I've had some that required some work as well. Funny people here blame the tool when the real issue is cam runout, bore sizing, or bore alignment.
Doug
 
dvw said:
Been using the Lisle tool for years. I just used it Saturday. Cam slid right in. I've had some that required some work as well. Funny people here blame the tool when the real issue is cam runout, bore sizing, or bore alignment.
Doug
Click to expand...
Do you have a way to check cam bore alignment? If so, how many blocks have you found that were out. As far as cam run out, I've found several that had at least .002" and a few that were at least .005"! A buddy has a universal cam installation tool and has had a lot of trouble with tight cams but don't know what brand he has.....
 
I doubt if anybody has the tools to check cam tunnel alignment in their garage. So if the cam doesnt fit what are the options? Rebore the cam tunnel? Now the bearings are to small to hold press. Bore the cam bearings? Makecsleevesafter boring the tunnel. Expensive find somebody to do it. For what purpose? Just scrape them. Or in more extreme cases make a tool from an old cam. If the block is off there really isnt an economical repair. So you use what works. We're not talking Pro Stock here. Either way the tool that installs the bearings isn't causing the issue when properly used.
Doug
 
Properly used says a lot! Don't know what brand this buddy of mine has but either he hasn't been using it right for the last 50 years or the tool is the problem. About 35 years ago I made a installation tool and haven't had a problem since.....which surprised me.
 
number 4 is usually the tight one
I had a line bore but that's not usually the answer but can check
I have straight cams with notches milled in the journals
gets those babbit bearings straighter than using a scraper
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

B
Crankshaft end play tight?
Replies
19
Views
1K
Geoff 2
G
73challenger
Camshaft brand selection
2
Replies
23
Views
2K
rumblefish360
rumblefish360
D
alternator rear bearing install
Replies
4
Views
603
RJRENTON
RJRENTON
dan juhasz
cam bearing tools
2
Replies
21
Views
2K
Krooser
Krooser
B
Cam Bearing Journal Issues
Replies
12
Views
2K
steve340
S
Auto Transport Service
Back
Top