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Repairing Small Holes In Floorpans

Zack Mayo

Zack Mayo

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Hello,

I am planning to tackle the floor of our 68 GTX and wanted to see what you guys think about the floorpan. It has a lot of surface rust and some smaller hole. Would this need metal repair work to fix or is there another solution for sealing the holes without welding?

Any info would be great. Not a great welder.

I am new to the forum as well in case I missed this. I have attached a link to the image below. Thank you,

Rusting Floorpan.JPG
 
Last edited:
If you weld them make sure you drill the hole first to get rid of any thin metal then use a copper plate in back of the weld. If the whole area is very thin you will have to replace a section.
 
Zack Mayo said:
Makes sense, so you think this can be patched without having to replace the floor pan completely?
Click to expand...

If it doesnt seem weak to you, I would convert the rust and seal with POR-15 for now. Then learn how to weld working on your friends cars lol. :drinks:
Watch for deals on a floor pan and make sure you get one before they quit makin them!

Welcome to the group.
 
If that is as worse as it gets, I definitely wouldn't replace the whole pan. I would however buy a left front piece and plan on grafting in a piece. Probably from the torsion bar crossmember forward and the low area left and right. Clean the area up good and see what you have to work with. That is a perfect area for you to learn how to weld.
 
Outstanding, appreciate your ideas. Had the 68 GTX for a while but never took initiative to tackle the floor pan rust part. I really appreciate it. Is it best to chemical remove the rust or good old fashioned elbow grease with wire brushes.
 
I think you will find the area with several holes will likely need to be cut out.
You could patch just that area or buy a partial pan as mentioned.
I've had pretty good success with rust reformer where you do just wire brush and clean the existing stuff.
Or a product like POR-15 which coats over the rust as well with an epoxy finish.

Looks like a nice GTX so shoot for the partial pan if you are able.

Another option is just patch the area and do the panel replacement at a later date.
No one sees this area so you could just make a patch about an 1" or 2" larger put some sealant around the opening and patch over it.
 
She isn't in terrible shape. We pulled the engine many moons ago and detailed it and now ready to clean up the firewall and get her back together soon. Here she is without the engine and hood.

254377_10150263449351084_898418_n.jpg
 
Yup!
Easy fix....
Here is the solution:
(Any thing else you would be foolish)
AMD $209 + $17.95 shipping oversize charge

405-1466-L_800.jpg
 
Beautiful car! Do it right, and not have to worry later....or You'll wish you had.:lol:
 
By the photos, it looks as though the pan needs to be replaced. If you were to blast it or
use phosphoric acid to remove the rust, a lot of that material will disappear! Do it right!
The car is too nice!
 
Depends on how thin the rest of is. Making small patches is a piece of cake. Properly but welded no one will ever know.. Is the under carriage detailed? If not, clean it real good. Pop rivet a nice fitting patch with panel bond between the two pieces. Whens it dries drill the pop rivets out and panel bond the small holes from the rivets. Its easy for guys to say weld it. But the interior and all glass needs to be fully covered to prevent weld splatter damage. Also to make it look nice you need to be pretty decent at welding sheet metal. I've welded plenty of sheet metal and glued parts as well.
Doug
 
Zack,that the most common spot for rust ,it's where water drips off your shoes. Check out the rest of the floor real good and if you think it's just got surface rust then use por-15 as per exact instructions. Order up a patch repair panel for that rusted out area. Cut it down to just what you need BUT make sure it's big enough about 2" extra all around. If you want to do the repair yourself ( you do) and aren't good at welding yet then get some 3m 8116 panel bond and gun from Summit racing. Just pop riveting patch panels in has been done forever but these are unibody cars and should be welded or bonded in. BYW, you'll pull that car in half before a bonded panel comes off.
 
Nice, thank you guys for such great feedback. I am decent at painting but never welded. That is a skill I do want to learn soon. I am excited to get back to getting the GTX into shape. I will keep you posted on how I tackle the floor pan. This is a great forum for information.
 
I use them all the time, good products and fair shipping. Usually a discount code over in FABO also
 
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