Rear main leak take three.Please help.

Frank Mopar said:

http://www.fastfishautoparts.com/Performance-Engine-Seals.html

Did mine in the car a year ago. No leaks

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dvw said:

Where is it leaking? The seal itself? Or the cap sides. I wouldnt use RTV between the cap and block at the crank centerline. Anaerobic sealer should be used there, sparingly. Open the holes in the retainer by a 1/16". Install the retainer with the seal leave the side seals out. The retainer may not be centered in the block opening. The seal half in the retainer should center on the seal/crank. The side seals can force it out of alignment. Fill the side grooves with RTV instead. Never had a rear main leak doing it by this method.
Doug

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Ace66 said:

Thank You DVW.It leaks front center of crank.Do you use stock or billet retainers

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dvw said:

I use the stock parts. Make the rear pan bolt holes aren't cracked from using a bolt that is too long.
Doug

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Beekeeper said:

yep my engine builder told me they have compared the newer seals with some NORS and found them to be a bit smaller in thickness so taking some off the retainer could help

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Ace66 said:

Thanks Frank any tips for my stroker’s seal?

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Jeremiah said:

Make sure the bellhousing is square to the block and aligned to the crank center line while it is apart.

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beanhead said:

I'll pass along what helped me, which mostly was from one of our resident pro-builders (340Challenger).. whichever style retainer and seal you choose, keep this in mind. The block-side crankshaft seal journal is often not quite perfectly centered between the bolt holes. So when you set the retainer/seal down over the crank you need to go easy and 'wiggle' it some as you go.
In other words--let the seal go down evenly on the crank, so the seal dictates where the reatainer ends up sitting on the block. It's kind of a 'feel' thing. There is usually just enough room around the retainer to still fit in the block, but if it's way off you may get into enlarging the bolt holes (I've never had to go that far). The fact that you've tried different retainer/seal kits, and had one machined to no success points to the off-center problem. Machining the bottom of the retainer can worsen the issue, you get more 'squish' on the top of the seal and more gap on one or both sides.

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beanhead said:

I'll pass along what helped me, which mostly was from one of our resident pro-builders (340Challenger).. whichever style retainer and seal you choose, keep this in mind. The block-side crankshaft seal journal is often not quite perfectly centered between the bolt holes. So when you set the retainer/seal down over the crank you need to go easy and 'wiggle' it some as you go.
In other words--let the seal go down evenly on the crank, so the seal dictates where the reatainer ends up sitting on the block. It's kind of a 'feel' thing. There is usually just enough room around the retainer to still fit in the block, but if it's way off you may get into enlarging the bolt holes (I've never had to go that far). The fact that you've tried different retainer/seal kits, and had one machined to no success points to the off-center problem. Machining the bottom of the retainer can worsen the issue, you get more 'squish' on the top of the seal and more gap on one or both sides.

Click to expand...

beanhead said:

I'll pass along what helped me, which mostly was from one of our resident pro-builders (340Challenger).. whichever style retainer and seal you choose, keep this in mind. The block-side crankshaft seal journal is often not quite perfectly centered between the bolt holes. So when you set the retainer/seal down over the crank you need to go easy and 'wiggle' it some as you go.
In other words--let the seal go down evenly on the crank, so the seal dictates where the reatainer ends up sitting on the block. It's kind of a 'feel' thing. There is usually just enough room around the retainer to still fit in the block, but if it's way off you may get into enlarging the bolt holes (I've never had to go that far). The fact that you've tried different retainer/seal kits, and had one machined to no success points to the off-center problem. Machining the bottom of the retainer can worsen the issue, you get more 'squish' on the top of the seal and more gap on one or both sides.

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erickson said:

I use a billet

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INTMD8 said:

I'm no machinist but if you take .003 off the caps and align hone it can you expect to take the same material off the caps and block to end up true? (I would still think more would come off the caps than the block) If that's the case you would need .0015 off the retainer unless I'm missing some reason all the material would end up being removed from the block after the caps are cut.

I think before I cut it I would mount it up as is and take radial measurements.

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INTMD8 said:

I'm no machinist but if you take .003 off the caps and align hone it can you expect to take the same material off the caps and block to end up true? (I would still think more would come off the caps than the block) If that's the case you would need .0015 off the retainer unless I'm missing some reason all the material would end up being removed from the block after the caps are cut.

I think before I cut it I would mount it up as is and take radial measurements.

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dvw said:

I always use the red seals. You be surprised how far off some of the side gaps are. Billet or factory.
Doug

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