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Factory cassete recorder schematic?

So incase this helps anyone, here is where I got the tires and belts: https://www.dynamtechgroup.com/car-stereo-belts.php


The fast forward tire isn't listed on the page but he was able to get it for me.
That part number is: P/N 06-0102
The tires are $6.50 a piece. The belts went up in price from what they have listed. UPDATE 1/26/20
THIS ISN'T THE CORRECT TIRE FOR THIS RADIO. BUT COULD BE MADE TO WORK WITH SOME OUT OF THE BOX THINKING.

The capacitors came from Digi-key. I got all the caps to do the head unit and the tape player.
I've been on Mr. Carlson's patreon page learning about radio restoration and repair. Wished I would've done that prior to buying the caps. I got some tantalum caps because they didn't have the right sized electrolytic capacitors. They are not suited for radios as they can cause static. I should've gotten polystyrene capacitors instead.
Another tip: if you plan on changing out the caps, they are polarized. If you put them in backwards they will blow up. A schematic is definitely needed. Also you want the foil end to shield the cap as to not cause any noise in the circuit. The polystyrene caps may or may not be polarized but they do have a foil end. In most cases you will need a outside foil tester for the polystyrene caps if they aren't marked or specified in there data sheet
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Here is the list from digikey:
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If you're interested I can take another video of the project. The one posted was mine that I made. I won't win any awards for the production I'm sure. Just trying to help knuckleheads like myself out who can't afford expensive repairs.
 
Im interested. My car came with the tape player and since then, I've acquired 3 players and need to tackle this at sometime. Thanks!
 
Im interested. My car came with the tape player and since then, I've acquired 3 players and need to tackle this at sometime. Thanks!
Make sure you restore your head unit also.

Some things to consider:

The head unit:
It's not just as simple as swapping in new caps/parts. The radio will have to be aligned. This will require equipment. A signal generator and a scope or other comparable test equipment to do the alignment. The alignment will be in the manual.

Cassette player/recorder:

Absolutely do not use a magnetic screwdriver any where near the tape head. This will cause it to erase your tapes. And you will also need a demagnetizor. Use it at the very end. It's the last thing you do before you button it up. Again don't use a magnetic screwdriver.
Also don't mess with any screws that have glue on them. The the tape head for example. Leave it alone. If you mess with it your screwed. Then you will have to send it to a shop. Will need to use a special cassette to adjust the tape speed and a frequency counter. There are apps for the counter. But I have no experience with them.

Have a good understanding of what components do. Work in a non static environment. I recommend using a static bracelet. They are cheap. Your caps will come in a static proof plastic ziploc bag for a reason. If you've powered up the radio recently you will need to discharge the caps. They will hold a charge, and depending on how big they are, you can get zapped pretty good. Or do damage to other components in circuit.

Only test components out of circuit. Testing them on the board will give you a false reading. The board is old, take care not to overheat the board or you will ruin the traces. I recommend a good solder wick or solder vacuum. Also use a ra type flux and 60/40 solder. Small diameter the better. And clean of the flux with lacquer thinner and a cue tip.

I've taken more video but haven't had time to edit it and post it. But its coming. It's not something that can be fit into 1 video. There are lot of things to know and talk about. If you only had 1 radio to restore and you never plan on restoring another 1, I'd just send it to a shop. That's said I have several radio's and I plan on doing other electronic projects. So the expense of buying all this gear is worth it to me. You will realistically have $300-$1000 invested in everything you need, or more. The signal gen, the oscilloscope, parts, ect. Depending if you buy new or used.

I do plan on covering this project and posting it to YouTube as I progress. I hope to have this all done by spring.
 
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I put it all back together and everything works but no sound. So I tore back apart and started checking resistors. Since the schematic picture doesn't give the values of the resistors, I listed them all and wrote down what the values are. I did make a short video. So far I've checked 4 and found a bad one already.
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Here's the video of anyone is interested.
 
I've considered replacing all the resistors on this board with metal film resistors. Because the carbon film resistors that originally came in this design are noisy by design. Which means they cause a hiss sound at certain frequencies. This could be a very lengthy process. Although the parts are relatively cheap (Chinese parts).
I would like to keep with the Vishay brand because of their reputation as a good quality component manufacturer. But after research, that could increase the cost of this project dramatically. And this is the territory of diminishing returns I believe. Would the change from a carbon film resistor to metal film or metal foil resistor even be able to be distinguishable by ear? Idk. But considering that this isn't a hi fidelity radio and it's not pushing allot of watts anyways, I decided to just order a carbon film resistor kit and replace what tests bad.
 
I do not believe you will experience any improvement of performance with a resistor change out. A resistor drops voltage and provides an impedance. Noise is generated by active circuits or thermal noise at higher frequencies.
Measure voltages on active components and determine if the transistor is in the transcondictance range.
In RF and IF circuits resistance is a bit more important, but I've seen performance impacted by capacitors more than any other component.
 
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