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383 getting stroked, head question....

Archangelgman26

Archangelgman26

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hey guys,

Long time creeper, first time poster! I have bought a 71 Roadrunner, and am really excited! I am not currently home, as my presence in the sandbox has been "formally requested". However I have spoken to a number of smart guys on here through private chat to get a few really good suggestions on my motor. I will be stroking my cute 383ci out to 496ci. I will be driving on the street 99% of the time. It may see a track for fun, but I want to be able to enjoy the car, and the experience with my kids of transforming it, and driving it...
Sorry to the question. I am looking to do a solid roller set up on cam, and between the rest of the threads and some PMs, I have my valvetrain pretty well locked in. I just need someone to justify the money for trickflow 240s over a set of stealths. I just don't see double the price... and I missing something? I see the flow numbers, I get the valve differences, are they just that much better? I will be in the upper 500s on hp and hopefully break 600 on tq (at the flywheel). Is it just that much easier to do with the Trickflows?
 
Just me but my opinion would be to spend the money now and get the good stuff. You won't be sorry going this route.:thumbsup:
 
IMHO a solid roller cam is not a good fit for a primarily street car. Solid flat tappets can give all the performance you want for far less $$. I don't have personal experience with either Stealth or TF heads, but I still have worries about Stealth reliability based on a friends Stealth cracking in half. The opinion on Stealth's seem to be about 50-50. My experience is with EDE RPM's & Indy EZ-1. Reports on the Trick Flows seem all positive.
 
I have a set of Stealth heads. Just under a grand assembled. Unless I'm buying a head that has been CNC'd, I would get at minimum a "Good" valve job to ensure everything is right. I don't know the particulars of the TF heads, but CNC port work etc on the Stealths cost about another grand. So mine ran me 2k. I had the exact work done by same company to mine. I also went 496 but hydraulic roller cam.

Chrysler 383 Big-Block - Mopar For The Masses
https://www.hotrod.com/articles/chrysler-383-big-block-mopar-for-the-masses/
 
Don't think the magazine guys run their motors long enough to judge reliability. The Source price is good, the quality may have improved in the last few years.
 
66Satellite47 said:
Don't think the magazine guys run their motors long enough to judge reliability. The Source price is good, the quality may have improved in the last few years.
Click to expand...


Well I'm hoping the quality on mine are good as I bought them in '07 I think and am just getting them installed. I guess we'll see.
 
66Satellite47 said:
IMHO a solid roller cam is not a good fit for a primarily street car. Solid flat tappets can give all the performance you want for far less $$. I don't have personal experience with either Stealth or TF heads, but I still have worries about Stealth reliability based on a friends Stealth cracking in half. The opinion on Stealth's seem to be about 50-50. My experience is with EDE RPM's & Indy EZ-1. Reports on the Trick Flows seem all positive.
Click to expand...

I get the argument, but the argument that got on the solid roller was the valve timing and how long it can be open vs a flat tappet. Hughes recommended a hydraulic roller I like but I asked for a solid roller recommendation also. For longevity I like the idea of roller cam.
 
diesel_lv said:
I have a set of Stealth heads. Just under a grand assembled. Unless I'm buying a head that has been CNC'd, I would get at minimum a "Good" valve job to ensure everything is right. I don't know the particulars of the TF heads, but CNC port work etc on the Stealths cost about another grand. So mine ran me 2k. I had the exact work done by same company to mine. I also went 496 but hydraulic roller cam.

Chrysler 383 Big-Block - Mopar For The Masses
https://www.hotrod.com/articles/chrysler-383-big-block-mopar-for-the-masses/
Click to expand...

Whats the specs on your build? Is it for street use? What cam did you pick?
 
where are the trick flows made?
 
I built a 400/500 stroker and used a 236/242 hydraulic roller. With my home ported 452 heads it made 550 HP and 610 TQ. I later changed to Edelbrock Performer RPM heads and picked up 2 1/2 tenths or about 25 HP. I consider the Stealth heads to flow about the same as the Eddies, therefore you can easily make your goals without the 240's. By the way 600 TQ will make you smile.
 
I'm real happy with my Edelbrock RPMs and Hughes solid lifter cam in my 493 engine. Running a 6 pack, 10.6:1 CR, pump premium fuel and made 450 HP at the wheels. Good for mid 11s in my wagon.
Mike
I had trouble early on as the lifter bores were not located correctly (from the factory), took out the cam and lifters and required bushing and correctly reboring in the correct location. Fairly common from what I'm told. Beware!
 
Archangelgman26 said:
Whats the specs on your build? Is it for street use? What cam did you pick?
Click to expand...
I did a 440 Source 496 stroke w 10.5:1 compression. Used Comp XE280HR-10 Cam. Hydraulic roller. Edelbrock Performer RPM intake, Fitech Fuel injection w rail mounted pump. TTI 2-1/8 stepped headers. Gearvendor OD, front discs, 3.73 gears. Serpentine pulley system w modern a/c compressor, power steering pump, alternator and reverse flow water pump. 2 row aluminum radiator w electric fans. Will be a street driver only.
20200105_140227.jpg
 
I was in a similar position - I ended up going with the TF240s - I was very impressed with the quality, they come cnc'ed, and my machinist said they were great right out of the box.
 
Diesel.....That is the cleanest looking serpentine setup that I have seen for a big block. It looks like a OEM setup for new engines!
 
493 Mike said:
I'm real happy with my Edelbrock RPMs and Hughes solid lifter cam in my 493 engine. Running a 6 pack, 10.6:1 CR, pump premium fuel and made 450 HP at the wheels. Good for mid 11s in my wagon.
Mike
I had trouble early on as the lifter bores were not located correctly (from the factory), took out the cam and lifters and required bushing and correctly reboring in the correct location. Fairly common from what I'm told. Beware!
Click to expand...

So the heads had the bores not located correctly? Or was it the block that you had to bore? Just trying to make sure I understand.
 
diesel_lv said:
I did a 440 Source 496 stroke w 10.5:1 compression. Used Comp XE280HR-10 Cam. Hydraulic roller. Edelbrock Performer RPM intake, Fitech Fuel injection w rail mounted pump. TTI 2-1/8 stepped headers. Gearvendor OD, front discs, 3.73 gears. Serpentine pulley system w modern a/c compressor, power steering pump, alternator and reverse flow water pump. 2 row aluminum radiator w electric fans. Will be a street driver only. View attachment 946412
Click to expand...

Beautiful set up! I will be using a carb, not the most efficient set up, I know. There is just something about it, I can't deny. I appreciate the help, and for some reason there aren't many post on 496 street cruisers :lol:
 
The b
Archangelgman26 said:
So the heads had the bores not located correctly? Or was it the block that you had to bore? Just trying to make sure I understand.
Click to expand...
The block. I believe BHJ makes a fixture that machine shops use for correction but, I took mine to a shop with a Rotler computerized machine. We had a lot of trouble getting block dimensions to bore the lifter holes to program the Rotler. When it was done I had a block with brass bushed lifter bores with small oiling slots milled to feed lifters but, small enough to maintain oil pressure if I lost a lifter (popped out).
Mike
 
493, I didn't think that the lifter bore issue was common, but you sure wound up with a great system. The lifter popping out is a real concern. I lost my 1st drag motor, 426W to that. My first big money race at Byron, IL. Very expensive, but then built my first 440.
 
Between the quality difference and the horsepower difference, the stealth shouldn’t even be a consideration, however, given your small bore on that 383, you might want to look at finding a 400 block and using that with the Trick Flow heads instead. That also allows you to leave the 383 in it during the build.
 
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