hoover
Well-Known Member
planning to build one for my 67 RT.
Does anybody have any experience?
Any advice?
Does anybody have any experience?
Any advice?
440 source 512 srreet engine
- Thread starter hoover
- Start date
mr. b
Well-Known Member
my friend has a 440 source 512 in his duster it runs 10.50s with no problems
Mr.BelvedereII
New Member
I'm still buttoning up my 512 build, but I have put a few miles on it. 440source stroker kit, TrickFlow 240 heads, etc. 440source was great to work with, and I think their stroker kit is worth the money. I went with the TF heads over their Stealth heads as a personal choice; I felt that the made-in-the-USA factor of the TF heads were worth the premium $. I did get them from 440source though.
JackpotJim
Well-Known Member
I'm assembling a 440Source 512 low deck motor now. TF 270's, 11.5 to 1, going in my 66 Coronet. More of a Strip-street build.
Well I've got just about 650 miles on mine. It's in a '68 Satellite, 505 cubes since it's only a .030 overbore. I kept mine 'somewhat mild' because I drive it and cruise a lot, so unported Edelbrock RPM heads, and a 250 @.050 solid flat tappet cam from Mr. Dwayne Porter. Zero decked the pistons for 10 to 1 SCR to be in the happy zone with our oxygenated ethanol peepee gas out here. But on the street with 3.73 gears, 28" tires and a PTC custom 9.5" converter....it's plenty fast. I'm just getting the tune settled in and the throttle response in the lower range is fantastic...and going through the gears manually, WOT? It screams! It runs up through the range so much quicker than my 440 did. It pulls to 6000 like a smallblock, I attribute this to the lighter-weight rotating assembly (I did NOT use their lightweight crank though), cam profile and solid lifters, and the anality with which I set up the valvetrain (B3 kit, custom heavy-wall pushrods etc). I already had many of the components (heads, intake, carb etc) so I was able to keep the cost down somewhat.
My overall goal was to be able to drive it down to the track for a a few T&T nights a year, smoke my brother's 6.4 Challenger out on 'the country strip'(Done!) and still have it be as utilitarian as possible. I had a thread on it earlier, if you want to check it out-
https://www.forbbodiesonly.com/moparforum/threads/new-build-505.189251/
My overall goal was to be able to drive it down to the track for a a few T&T nights a year, smoke my brother's 6.4 Challenger out on 'the country strip'(Done!) and still have it be as utilitarian as possible. I had a thread on it earlier, if you want to check it out-
https://www.forbbodiesonly.com/moparforum/threads/new-build-505.189251/
We have had a 510 for 25+ years. One tip go with bb chevy rod journals and you won't have to grind much on the block. Heads make the power spend your money there. I'd run a hughes girdle if you are making 550hp or more. The first 510 we built was the most economical motor we have ever built..4.25 strokes have great potential for lots of different builds.
68 HEMI GTS
Well-Known Member
I’ve built 2 400/512’s with source kits. They work real well. This is the one in my street car. It gets driven a ton and I absolutely love it. Full build in link.
https://www.forbbodiesonly.com/moparforum/threads/roadrunner-8-4.101032/
then I just built another this year for my dad. Pump gas 512 with a roller and Indy -1’s. First time out it went 10 teens spinning at 134.5.
https://www.forbbodiesonly.com/moparforum/threads/roadrunner-8-4.101032/
then I just built another this year for my dad. Pump gas 512 with a roller and Indy -1’s. First time out it went 10 teens spinning at 134.5.
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hoover
Well-Known Member
I got my block back from the machine shop.
Since i am planning this to be very driveable(power brakes snd vac controlled heat) i was going to go really mild on the cam.
My machinist is thinking i should go a little more aggressive and run sn electric vacuum pump.
Anyone have any experience doing this?
It has a 727, so it can't be too wild
Since i am planning this to be very driveable(power brakes snd vac controlled heat) i was going to go really mild on the cam.
My machinist is thinking i should go a little more aggressive and run sn electric vacuum pump.
Anyone have any experience doing this?
It has a 727, so it can't be too wild
BSB67
Well-Known Member
What everyone thinks is streetable is different. If he is recommending a cam that requires a vacuum pump, that cam would be too big for what I want in a street car.
You can make 550 HP with a mild cam, run your power brakes, keep your stock converter and run 3.23 gears.
You can make 550 HP with a mild cam, run your power brakes, keep your stock converter and run 3.23 gears.
Remember too that the extra cubes will absorb some duration. Something with a 112 LSA will help the vacuum some, personally I don't run power brakes so I don't know what the limit is?
plymouth67
Well-Known Member
The 512 in my Challenger has been great. Its got the stealth heads but, it has all Lunati valve springs and retainers. in them and, a Lunati hydraulic roller cam in it. If i build another big block it will be one of these.
andyf
Well-Known Member
If the block is standard bore then build a 505 with 4.25 stroke crank and 0.030 over bores. Use the longer 7.100 inch Chevy rod. For a street engine keep the compression down in the 9.5 to 10.5 range. Use Trick Flow 240 heads and a small hyd roller cam if you have the budget. That combination will make 600/600 power and torque and will have a nice subtle idle with 12+ inches of vacuum. For a street car you don't need big headers, 1 3/4 will work just fine and fit easily in most cars.
451Mopar
Well-Known Member
The 440 source kits are pretty good, but like any new part (to the engine), needs to be checked for fit and finish.
I really like the 440 source 114-1001 9 way adjustible 3-bolt timing chain set.
I really like the 440 source 114-1001 9 way adjustible 3-bolt timing chain set.
cdr
Well-Known Member
I enjoy driving my Charger 512 lowdeck, lots of power on demand for a street car. have about 11k miles on it, with a refresh at 5k miles, had a solid flat tappet cam problem so I had to take it apart & replace the bad cam & lifters , rings, bearings & clean it all out, 6k miles since then, still running strong.
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